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Post by zebulon on Jan 24, 2022 5:57:06 GMT -5
In my quest for a suitable oil, I did some amateur testing. I was just curious how Castrol 20W/50 (on the right ) and Castrol Power 1 Racing 2T (left ) behave when they burn and when they are dissolved in gasoline. I used same amount of oil. 20W/50 was really difficult to put on fire pure. Must be the flash point. At the end, when both oils burned to the end (without gas) 20W/50 was almost gone whereas the synthetic has left quiet a bit. I am not a chemist; I don’t know why it has left so much oil or what part got burned out of it. Better lubrication but more deposits
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Post by wayne on Jan 24, 2022 17:22:55 GMT -5
In my quest for a suitable oil, I did some amateur testing. I was just curious how Castrol 20W/50 (on the left ) and Castrol Power 1 Racing 2T (right ) behave when they burn and when they are dissolved in gasoline. I used same amount of oil. 20W/50 was really difficult to put on fire pure. Must be the flash point. At the end, when both oils burned to the end (without gas) 20W/50 was almost gone whereas the synthetic has left quiet a bit. I am not a chemist; I don’t know why it has left so much oil or what part got burned out of it. Interesting experiment but I'm not sure what to make of it. The video information says it's Castrol Power 2T on the left and Castrol 20/50 on the right. It was the one on the right that was harder to ignite so is it 20/50 on the right, not the left as you say above? During manufacture steel tins and cans are usually sprayed with a coat of lacquer on the inside. This prevents food substances reacting with the metal. It's possible that some of the residue in the tin may be a result of the lacquer and not the oil?
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Post by zebulon on Jan 25, 2022 1:31:06 GMT -5
Yes, you are right.
Me neither. I was wondering why there is so much left of the synthetic compared to the GTX.
Does it mean that synthetic oil can withstand or needs higher temps to burn completely and therefore is the better choice?
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Post by kanonkopdrinker on Jan 25, 2022 5:31:59 GMT -5
I remember seeing F&S KC27 engine stripped down …. it had been run on Silkolene 2T (one of the oils approved for Norton rotaries - both air and water-cooled).
All the internals were coated with a fine layer of oil … brilliant at preventing internal corrosion, especially if the bike is only used occasionally.
I don’t know what this observation adds to this discussion?
David
PS/ Happy Burns Night!!!
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Post by zebulon on Jan 25, 2022 9:30:07 GMT -5
That's exactly what I was thinking off, I will ride it maybe 3 times a year (have other stuff to move as well).
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Post by zebulon on Feb 23, 2022 10:37:05 GMT -5
Hi guys, after some time without the RE5 I wanted to finish by starting up and because I did a test drive when I got the bike it should be a piece of cake. At that time, it started right away. Because of the complexity I didn´t mess with the carb, just add a filter and fuel switch. The other day I tried to start without luck. The bike flooded all the time. After many tries with drying the sparkplug, changing the sparkplug I was desperate and found a small hint in the owner’s manual saying, “close the choke and give full throttle”. Well somehow it worked, and it fired up right away. I put a ventilator in front and let it run for a bout 10 to 15 minutes with a happy face. I had to pause a couple of days again and wanted to start the bike today but the same think happened it’s flooding and won’t start and this time “close the choke and give full throttle” doesn’t do the trick. I have spark, sparkplug is wet. I appreciate your input. Any tips?
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Post by timpa136 on Feb 23, 2022 13:40:01 GMT -5
Most of the work is done, put a fuel switch on, cause I read here that there might be a problem when the bike sits for a long time.
I drained the oils and found the previous owner did not follow the “one oil for everything” rule. Transmission was some redish and metering tank kind of bluish stuff. Now I need to make up my mind which route I am going to take. If the fuel line cut-off switch is holding, carefully check if the petcock fuel or vacuum line are leaking
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Post by wayne on Feb 24, 2022 0:23:33 GMT -5
I had this problem for 20 years Zebulon. Every start was a nightmare with flooding. Changing plugs, new plugs, everything you say.
These days it will start straight up even after years (it does a rotation as a museum display but of course tank and carb are drained before hand).
It's home at the moment and as much as 2 months will go by without a start and it always fires up first go.
I can only go back to fuel leaks and the aftermarket in line fuel tap. I've tried them before and found that the cheaper ones leak. Even in the "off" position they allow fuel to slowly bypass the tap. Only the big dollar racing taps actually work. I use a crude but effective surgical scissor clamp and have done so for years. No leakage. I just use it in a different place on the fuel tube each time to prevent it from permanently deforming (although line is cheap and easily replaced).
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Post by zebulon on Feb 24, 2022 5:25:09 GMT -5
Thank you both for your input.
The fuel tab is holding nicely, the Suzuki fuel tab is a little (very little) bit wet around the selector.
How does it connect to my problem?
Edit: cleaned the fuel tab, now it's dry but no change. I had it almost but it died , I think I need to check the carb....
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Post by timpa136 on Feb 24, 2022 11:01:50 GMT -5
Thank you both for your input. How does it connect to my problem? Edit: cleaned the fuel tab, now it's dry but no change. I had it almost but it died , I think I need to check the carb....
You are on the right track. Something in the needle and seat?
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Post by wayne on Feb 25, 2022 4:30:39 GMT -5
How does it connect to my problem? The main valves in these carbies don't work well, even when I've replaced them. So any fuel leaking past the tap will also leak past the main valve in the carb. I've never bothered to trace it, but it seems that it causes the engine to get a gutful of excess fuel when you go to start it. Sometimes I'd find a puddle of fuel in the secondary throat after the bike had been sitting for a while. Whatever reason, making 100% sure that no fuel can leak into the carb from the fuel tank made a huge difference to my bike- twenty years of start troubles and 20 years free.
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Post by timpa136 on Feb 26, 2022 15:33:24 GMT -5
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Post by zebulon on Feb 27, 2022 4:31:25 GMT -5
Still not running. I run from an external tank, did carb ultrasonic cleaning 40 minutes without jets, all the jets are correct, it even has the tiny needle, checked timing which is like in the video 7°. It' still flooding so bad that is even drops out the muffler flange.
Man I don' know what happened that it now refuses to start.............
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Post by timpa136 on Feb 27, 2022 9:58:27 GMT -5
Still not running. I run from an external tank, did carb ultrasonic cleaning 40 minutes without jets, all the jets are correct, it even has the tiny needle, checked timing which is like in the video 7°. It' still flooding so bad that is even drops out the muffler flange.
Man I don' know what happened that it now refuses to start............. May I suggest, drain the carb. bowl to dry it out. Pull the spark plug and dry it out. For safety, pull the CDI connector and crank it over to expel excess gas out the plug hole. Clear that gas mess up and let it dry out some more.Use this time to top off the battery charge. When filling the carb this time with the pre-mix gas try to fill the carb bowl and shut off the supply before starting. Re attach the CDI connector and gently replace the spark plug and get that fan ready again. Turn the gas back on once running. tim
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Post by Framitron on Feb 27, 2022 12:51:53 GMT -5
Hi Zebulon: Is the float functioning properly?
Is it possible that you are having an intermittent or weak spark? A weak ignition can provide a spark when viewing the spark plug in open air but has a difficult time sparking under the high pressure of engine conditions.
I wish you luck as this does sound frustrating.
Al
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