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Post by timpa136 on Jan 1, 2023 13:49:52 GMT -5
Mmm, why does the manual say „11“? Then I need to pull the cover? I really made sure that all is according to the manual before installation, page 15/16. Is it common that the timing gear moves while putting the cover back on? There is an early service bulletin of service manual corrections. I recommended to people to go thru and correct all the spots in their manual. Either advance curve will not affect static timing. If the cover doesn't slide on perfectly, I always double check the marks as any bump could move the mark.
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Post by typ110 on Jan 1, 2023 13:58:05 GMT -5
The most probable reason is that the timing gear is 1 teeth wrong. This happens easely when putting on the cover.
The solution here is to set the timing gears correct and mark the shaft of the points-housing in this position before mounting the sidecover. After you have mounted the cover, check if the mark you made on the shaft of the points-housing is still correct.
In addition, you could also use some tape to hold the shaft into its correct position. Eitherway, you will need to pull the cover again....Sorry
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Post by HGH 770N on Jan 1, 2023 15:28:29 GMT -5
As part of my diligence check for myself when I re install the side case I add 2 allen screws and then check the static timing. The distributor gear can easily move 1 tooth either way when installing and it’s easier to remove the case again to correct. Allot of work to correct once you’ve added all screws and fluids.
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Post by zebulon on Jan 8, 2023 12:15:51 GMT -5
Pulled the cover and checked settings again, but no luck even with all marks lined up. So I decided to move the gear (dot) one position cw away from the mark, and voilà I can adjust timing within specs. I had to change the clutch cover earlier and swapped the internals, I didn‘t mark anything, made sure that the punchmarks of the inner and outer oilpump rotors are as per manual, that’s it. Obviously the gear is in a different spot. I would leave it as it is unless you tell me i need to pull the shaft and somehow correct it, but I don’t found a procedure.
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Post by HGH 770N on Jan 8, 2023 18:13:51 GMT -5
I’ve had a thought about your timing issue. I serviced a bike and couldn’t move the static timing closer to TDC than 10. Before going down the lengthy clutch cover removal I changed the points for a NOS set and “Bingo” the adjustment was there. The points fitted must have been incorrect and had a longer plate than original ones moved the timing . This would not be a problem if you knew about it on a rebuild before you put the cover on to make adjustment. NOS points are difficult to locate. You can carefully use the alternative or if you’re not using the “B” points you can use the spring and contact on the “A” points.( Just remove them from the pin and turn them over )
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Post by zebulon on Jan 16, 2023 10:30:32 GMT -5
I went over it again and got it finally, don't why not in the first place. A bit smokey at the beginning but it cleared up later on.
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Post by timpa136 on Jan 16, 2023 17:42:27 GMT -5
Super Great News!
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Post by wayne on Jan 16, 2023 23:15:04 GMT -5
Great news! To paraphrase a former board member and Mazda mechanic, smoking on start up is cause for celebration!
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Post by zebulon on May 15, 2023 2:51:09 GMT -5
Quick update on my RE5 adventure, yes it's still not sorted out.... The engine runs totaly fine when it's running but there still some hidden, intermittend elektrical and/or other problems. I had a blown main fuse last year that came out of nowhere, at that time I had already driven many miles. I checked it and it was 15A instead of 20A, ok no big deal, change and forget it. It also stalled on one or two occations but startet right up again. At that time I decided to install an alternative CDI, just in case.
As you now, at the end of the season, the engine won't start at all, the engine had hidden problems as well, but thanks to Michel, this is done as well. Now the engine starts always right up, but on my first shakedown ride it stalled again, but startet right up again. It was also very hesitend in generall. At home I realized that I forgot to connect the vacuum hose from tank to carburetor, ok that must be it now, let's do a long trip.
This spring is very, very wet here in Germany, but last Saturday I put on the red number plate and get on. After 3 miles it hit me again - no power, all out. Luckily I had a spare 20A, and returned home, but this time the engine stalled every few meters and was hard to start again. I swapped bike to at least enjoy a couple of dry hours on my "new" Suzuki XN85.
Yesterday I checked all connectors, some of them I alredy repaired last year, check the voltage regulator (strange design!) as per manual. My alterator is pulling strong 14,8V. I followed and measured resitance of the red wire all the way down to the headlamp. It had 14 ohm which is high, cleaned the big black connector an got it down to 2. The headlamp connector showed signs of head. Removed the red culprit out of the jack and plug and made a new connecton bypassing the original connector.
I hope that this at least cures the "blown fuse" but I don't know if this fixes the "engine stalling" as well, fingers crossed!!!
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Post by timpa136 on May 15, 2023 10:36:08 GMT -5
I had a dirty handlebar kill switch act up at a cold wet dark early morning start from the campground on a road trip.
It was easier to just cut into the harness and bypass the switch out along the side of the road. Check that.
Make sure the battery box has clean polished grounds to the frame, too.
14.8 is as high as I would ever like to see the voltage when warmed up. Regulator is a simple mechanical adjustment.
Sometimes an infra red temperature gun will pinpoint hot connectors, too. Hang in there.
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Post by Framitron on May 16, 2023 22:13:03 GMT -5
Kind of following on with Timpa's advice: Check *all* chassis grounding locations. Grounds are one of those things that are easily overlooked and since they involve an interface with a steel chassis they almost always involve some oxidation and eventually its gets bad enough to cause problems.
Brian Hudson and I were chatting the other week and the topic of the inadequate grounding of the rectifier came up. In my case the rectifier is bolted to a rusty steel stud on a rusty steel panel that is bolted to the chassis with more rusty fasteners. (I'm surprised that it works at all) So cleaning the steel fasteners and adding a designated ground cable directly to the battery is on my list.
I like Timpa's advice about the thermal detector. Those are wonderful for finding bad junctions. FLIR is making fairly cheap (a few hundred dollars) thermal imagers that attach to smartphones.
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Post by zebulon on May 30, 2023 3:06:51 GMT -5
One of the engine switch wire was squeezed between the handlebar but saw no signs of copper touching and had a brocken B-point wire. I put on an additonal ground wire to the old rectifier, checked all grounds. No fuse burning so far, but no test drive either.
To be on the save side, I ordered a modern replacement voltage regulator/regtifier, however when I plug it in, the fuse blows immediately. I will send it back to be checked, I hope it's brocken...
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Post by wayne on May 30, 2023 19:08:52 GMT -5
Worth giving the bike a check over then. Good find on the switch block wire. I had the tank off last night and found one of my top engine mount bolts missing (one of the two that bolt each of the triangular plates to the frame). A quick check of the bike found all those bolts needed a tweak of tightening while the long bolts were all tight.
Hope it was just a faulty rectifier.
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Post by zebulon on Jun 2, 2023 16:00:45 GMT -5
What a wonderful 89 miles trip today……………
All looking good, no blown fuse, looks like the small little fixes I did solve the problem?! I hope so! but wait😳😳😳😳😳😳
Where is oil the sump oil going😵💫😵💫. Please forgive my sarcasm, I take the whole, I‘ll take it all! Unscrew the transmission level check screw, there you are🖕
looked at some forum topics and I am not prepared to take that left, edit: right cover off again in the near future, luckily I have more than 20 other options to enjoy the bike season. Man I am done😡.
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Post by timpa136 on Jun 2, 2023 18:02:43 GMT -5
Sorry to hear of your trouble.
I have a new case gasket for sale but sadly no new oil pump seal or individual side cover gasket.
Tim
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