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Post by Guido on Sept 18, 2016 10:23:18 GMT -5
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Post by Guido on Sept 18, 2016 10:28:10 GMT -5
First picture with the dimantled bike is not possible to upload "Server capcity from the Forum is exeed" 107 kB Today I learned to work with flickr not so easy but now I understood
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Post by SuzukiRE5 on Sept 18, 2016 13:03:58 GMT -5
If you get an account on a picture hosting site such as photobucket.com you can have all the pictures that you want on the site. There is a thread in the information and announcements section on how to put up a picture using one of these hosting sites.
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Post by redbug2 on Sept 19, 2016 5:57:24 GMT -5
If you are losing oil and it's coming out of the right site filler plug my guess would be that the gasket on the right side casing is compromised. (Or a piece of the right casing is broken? ) The transmission oil chamber should be separate from the engine oil, IMHO. When you say gear box, do you mean the countershaft seal? That would make sense. Seems like the oil pump is pressurizing the right casing which is connecting to the transmission. I would pull the right casing off and have a look at the gasket.
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Post by Guido on Sept 20, 2016 2:45:09 GMT -5
Thank you for sharing your ideas, I´m on a business trip and will check next weekend after draining out the transmission oil (may be 3 to 4 ltr.) the right side. There must be an opining between engine oil and transmission oil, like you discribe it feels like the main oil pump pump the oil directly to the transmission area.
I will inform you when I have new information
Best Regards Guido
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Post by HGH 770N on Sept 20, 2016 7:09:40 GMT -5
Hi Guido You could check your chain lube pipe that is inside the engine sprocket cover, If the oil pump pipes have been connected wrong way round you would get excess oil to the chain and not enough to the carb. also the clutch rod oil seals behind the same cover could be leaking , Have you over filled the transmission? There is a level bolt above the break peddle shaft .
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Post by redbug2 on Sept 20, 2016 8:28:18 GMT -5
Hmmm..... Does it really matter on the chain oiler? As I recall the oil lines come out of the same manifold from the pump and T's off to carb and chain sprocket oiler (75 only)?? The carb line has the check valve. If it matters then there is a 50% chance I have mine set up wrong.
Another thought... On the 76 they got rid of the chain oiler... Does that mean the 76 gets twice the oil sent to the carb or did the cut down the flow on the 76?
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Post by Guido on Sept 20, 2016 16:23:02 GMT -5
Hi, the chain lube pipe is not in operation like A model. I have not overfilled the transmission, but my engine oil find a way in to the transmission and overfilled it. I think like you described the only place is the right cover where it is possible to find a way from the engine oil to the transmission. Next weekend I will drain out engine oil, transmission oil and coolingwater, than dismantle the clutch cover. I think there I must find my problem. Thanks I will update.
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Post by wayne on Sept 20, 2016 19:56:45 GMT -5
Hmmm..... Does it really matter on the chain oiler? As I recall the oil lines come out of the same manifold from the pump and T's off to carb and chain sprocket oiler (75 only)?? The carb line has the check valve. If it matters then there is a 50% chance I have mine set up wrong. There are two outlets on the metering pump and they oil at different rates. One feeds the carby, the other feeds the chain oiler on the M model at HALF the rate. On the A model (and if you want to do it on an M), all they did was to fit a blanking plug to the chain oiler outlet on the metering pump. It does not affect output to the carby line so it's quite okay to do. People do connect these up the wrong way 'round. What Roger said, you could be damaging your engine. Double check if you're unsure.
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Post by HGH 770N on Sept 21, 2016 5:05:36 GMT -5
There is a chance that the gasket has failed between the sump and the clutch housing . Ive never seen this happen but if the casing has been off and gasket damaged and reused it may be passing sump oil into gear box oil and more importantly it may drain back the other way and put the dirty (Cutting paste) oil into sump and could wreck the mains . I would not run the engine until this issue was been rectified . Keep us up to date as I am interested . Rog
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Post by Guido on Sept 23, 2016 18:26:48 GMT -5
Update : Hi, after draining the transmission oil I found my 1,6 ltr transmission oil plus approx. 3 ltr. castrol engine oil. In the engine there were also arround 2 ltr (refilling after oil presure lamp started). So it is clear there must be a way from the engine area to the transmission. At the end the trnsmission area was totally overfilled. The gasket of the clutch cover and the surfaces are not bad, I don´t think that this was the reason. Here some Pictures after dismantling this area. I have still no idea where the way of the oil is. Any comments are welcome. After clutch cover removal clutch cover with gasket Detail Detail Some oil noses at the screws may be after 20 years possible or a hint screws are fixed Some oil under the starter may be leakage during high oil Level in the Transmission What is next ? Guido
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Post by timpa136 on Sept 23, 2016 19:10:31 GMT -5
Guido,
I would remove the breaker assy. and carefully mark the oil pump for rotor identification and correct reinstallation and inspect and replace the oil pump seal. With 100 psi cold against it, a leak will go into the trans. That is one check the techs had to confirm before warranting an engine proper. Hopefully Jess will have that seal .
regards Tim
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Post by Guido on Sept 24, 2016 4:05:36 GMT -5
Tim,
thank you for your reply 100psi sounds good for 2,5 ltr in 5-10 min. For clarification you mean the trochoid pump, after dismantling the breaker assey I have to work from inside Number 11 in the drawing and you requested to change number 17 the oil seal. Is this right ?
Marking mean that the gear no 11 must be in the same position reinstalled and the rotor is not moved during the work.
Thanks Guido
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Post by timpa136 on Sept 24, 2016 10:52:16 GMT -5
Tim, thank you for your reply 100psi sounds good for 2,5 ltr in 5-10 min. For clarification you mean the trochoid pump, after dismantling the breaker assey I have to work from inside Number 11 in the drawing and you requested to change number 17 the oil seal. Is this right ? Marking mean that the gear no 11 must be in the same position reinstalled and the rotor is not moved during the work. Thanks Guido Guido, That leakage is extreme! Was the oil seal replaced backwards? I'm refreshing my memory with the shop manual page 48-49 oil pump chapter that doesn't have your number identification. Yes, trochoid pump and page 48 figure 5-10 shows the seal. The two oil pump gears, or rotors, have punch marks that you need to keep together so more pictures during disassembly will help. I would suggest going further and replace the gasket behind the oil filter and breaker assy, it could be torn.
Others please chime in as I have not seen oil transfer like this. Tim
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Post by Guido on Sept 24, 2016 12:57:11 GMT -5
Tim, thank you for your comment,we are talking about the same parts. Tuesday I have time than I will give an update. In the service manual is also an discribtion for the dismantling work, looks not so complicated my numbers were from the part list of the trochoid pump.
Guido
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