nairb
2nd Gear
Posts: 145 
|
Post by nairb on Jun 20, 2016 7:12:34 GMT -5
I took a bucket full of bits off the re5m to the local chromer. He has done a few bits in the past and was recommended by other bike restores. The steel bits were easy as we all know. In the end all those dubious metal bits like indicator/tail light/instrument holder struck fear into the platers. In the end he just polished the parts and said I needed a specialist plater in aluminium. Having read about the problems of getting these things plated it came as no surprise. Another plater here in Notts (UK) also said I needed a specialist chrome plater. Here is a pic of the bits.  The words "Brushed Satin Chrome" was used in another thread. While the indicator body will be normal chrome if possible. The indicator stems were steel and are already done. My question is .... has anybody in the UK found a plater who is successful in doing "Brushed Satin Chrome" and is in the midlands. The instrument casings have been satin polished and look good but I dont know how well they will survive without further protection. Ta Nairb |
|
|
|
Post by HGH 770N on Jun 20, 2016 12:19:52 GMT -5
Brian
I too have satin polished some casing and lacquered them. I have yet find someone local to chrome .
I have tried Castle chrome . GT Chroming , Coopers , and got nowhere .
Good luck .
Rog
|
|
|
|
Post by raychappo on Jun 21, 2016 2:24:03 GMT -5
I ended up painting my instrument pod. The rear light I polished and lacquered.
|
|
nairb
2nd Gear
Posts: 145
|
Post by nairb on Jul 28, 2016 18:38:47 GMT -5
Brian I too have satin polished some casing and lacquered them. I have yet find someone local to chrome . I have tried Castle chrome . GT Chroming , Coopers , and got nowhere . Good luck . Rog I found that a couple of platers that said they could do it and then a couple of months later admitted they had not managed to do so BUT still wanted paying for their efforts. So I have decided to go the way of satin polish and lacquer. I have done the lacquer route before on the forks of my yamaha xs650 with mixed/poor results. They lasted all of one year before becoming pitted and tarnished. Has anybody found a lacquer that lasts and still looks ok after a couple of years. Re-doing the rear lamp is not much effort but that instrument body is a fair amount of work to re-do. Ta Nairb |
|
ap951
2nd Gear
Posts: 282
|
Post by ap951 on Jul 28, 2016 21:16:20 GMT -5
have you considered a clear gloss or semi gloss powder coat?
It preserves the finish beneath and is incredibly durable.
I've used it on other projects with great result (don't put it on to thickly)
However I have no experience using it on RE5 bits.
|
|
|
|
Post by jm0406 on Jul 29, 2016 15:04:45 GMT -5
The better way to do this is to use a ceramic clearcoat. It is not thick like powder coat, so is looks like you have nothing on. It is used on aluminum car wheels and holds up well. I use it on the rims after polish. Another benefit is that nothing sticks to it. So road dirt wipes off. Aged aluminum out gasses, and that makes plating hard if not impossible to accomplish. Not sure the parts in question are all aluminum of any alloy, acts more like mystery metal.
Jeff
|
|
nairb
2nd Gear
Posts: 145
|
Post by nairb on Jul 29, 2016 17:18:59 GMT -5
Here is a couple of pics of before & after...  After...  There is a firm down the road who does ceramic coatings on car wheels etc. So I will go and see if they do a ceramic clearcoat & show them whats it for. With luck it might be an answer. Ta Nairb |
|
|
|
Post by allgood57 on Jul 31, 2016 6:20:18 GMT -5
Rear lamp housing looks great! Is that just the brushed metal, and a clear coat over it to keep it from oxidizing for a little while?
|
|
nairb
2nd Gear
Posts: 145
|
Post by nairb on Aug 4, 2016 18:56:01 GMT -5
Rear lamp housing looks great! Is that just the brushed metal, and a clear coat over it to keep it from oxidizing for a little while? Just a 320 grit wet/dry paper. Its been taken to the local ceramic chaps for a clearcoat. I will report back on the results. They only did matt/gloss so I asked for matt. We shall see...... |
|
ski
1st Gear
"If it ain't broke, you're not trying."
Posts: 53
|
Post by ski on Aug 4, 2016 21:58:41 GMT -5
I wouldn't have gone with matte. I've used it in the past on other projects. It's going to look hazy and hold on to dirt. JMTC.
|
|
|
|
Post by jm0406 on Aug 5, 2016 9:19:28 GMT -5
I agree. If you have a chance to change it before they shoot it, I would. with the clear, it will not be visible that you have anything on there.
Jeff
|
|
|
|
Post by re5martin on Aug 6, 2016 5:59:39 GMT -5
would the spray chrome method work on the ali parts ,i think this is the method Glen uses on the repro rear mudgaurds.
|
|
|
|
Post by goandy on Aug 6, 2016 19:04:18 GMT -5
You could certainly use the chrome spray. Just not sure how it would go with getting the fine scratch/brushed lines in it.
|
|
nairb
2nd Gear
Posts: 145
|
Post by nairb on Aug 7, 2016 19:46:06 GMT -5
The rear light part is with the ceramic people. I will try to get there on monday to get them to use gloss instead of matt finish. I have never tried chrome spray. I will wait and see how the rear light turns out. Its cheap compared to the chromers and just down the road. With luck it might be OK.
|
|
|
|
Post by Glenn RE5 on Aug 16, 2016 1:14:13 GMT -5
|
|
