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Post by HGH 770N on Feb 1, 2016 12:03:24 GMT -5
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Post by wayne on Feb 1, 2016 17:52:45 GMT -5
I got one in a small job lot a couple of years back. I paid $200 AU but in the end, everything but the NOS primary chain was pretty much junk. I guess I may have got my money's worth in the end.
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Post by timpa136 on Feb 1, 2016 18:27:51 GMT -5
I'm looking at that asking price and thinking the US dollar isn't worth too much.
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Post by goandy on Feb 1, 2016 19:40:17 GMT -5
How did you go with the belt conversion Rog? Been a while since we had an update...  |
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Post by HGH 770N on Feb 2, 2016 5:35:16 GMT -5
 ANDY My belt drive conversion was put on hold last year. The belt was found to drift and shred into the starter gear , I added a washer and also extra tension spring onto the tensioner to try and prevent this . I am looking for a fixed pulley wheel to bolt using bolts indicated above in red , I am also looking for another "OIL Belt" that will work in hotter oil as this one is only designed for up to 84c .  |
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Post by goandy on Feb 2, 2016 8:56:17 GMT -5
That's a shame! Do you think the belt is flapping around with the harmonics or just walking sideways?
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Post by pmcburney on Feb 2, 2016 17:44:22 GMT -5
Ah bugger...
I'm looking forward to this being a chain replacement solution.
Good luck with the research!
BTW, if you need a beta tester I'd be happy to help out - I am now a consummate clutch-cover removalist after my RE's little lay down...
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Post by timpa136 on Feb 2, 2016 19:52:33 GMT -5
Roger, your previous video looked so encouraging. I wonder if the primary chain looks like Waynes secondary chain did in operation while on the DYNO? Too bad we can't see thru the case to see what is's doing. I'll just ask if Suzuki wouldn't like to make us up some more primary chains
Seriously, we all appreciate your work, time and money, on this modification!
Tim
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Post by HGH 770N on Feb 3, 2016 4:37:22 GMT -5
Tim/Andy
What a good idea .
I will look at modifying a casing with Perspex window. There is allot of whip with every compression .
I had tried adding the extra tensioner spring to get the belt as tight as I could but then it drifted even more with the original rubber wheel tensioner , I removed the chain guides off the wheel that didn't help.
The pulley's teeth have been damaged with the belt slipping over it so need new pulley's and start again.
Maybe a different tooth this time ?? I used AT10 mm because of the small size of the driven pulley.
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Post by goandy on Feb 3, 2016 8:43:53 GMT -5
Daymmn! Can't believe it damaged the teeth as well!
NO idea as to suggestions on improvements- have you had a good chat with your belt supplier? They may also have suggestions for tensioning etc.
Consider a nylon guide down near the clutch end- might be easier to add than another pulley using those bolt holes? Possibly a guide along the bottom (power) side as well? Might reduce the whip.
Darn unbalanced single rotors- why didn't they just be done with it and make it a twin to start with??
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Post by HGH 770N on Feb 3, 2016 9:11:29 GMT -5
Andy . I had the belts made to measure not joined and the wire wound internals when shredded cut unto the alloy pulley's . my thoughts are adding a excentric adjustable pulley wheel used on car cam belts that then will be fixed to prevent whip and help it guide . I will ask supplier about different types and what tension .  |
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Post by Glenn RE5 on Feb 7, 2016 18:09:27 GMT -5
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Post by kanonkopdrinker on Feb 10, 2016 15:49:53 GMT -5
Cheers for that Glenn. Curiously, the eBay listing shows the chain as also fitting the Suzuki RM370 and RM400?  Really? That's a new one on me if it is the case. Can anyone confirm? David |
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Post by pmcburney on Feb 10, 2016 16:52:32 GMT -5
Cheers for that Glenn. Curiously, the eBay listing shows the chain as also fitting the Suzuki RM370 and RM400? Really? That's a new one on me if it is the case. Can anyone confirm? David I'm gonna call BS on it being an RM part. All the RMs had a geared primary drive - there ain't no chain in there! |
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Post by Glenn RE5 on Feb 10, 2016 17:04:20 GMT -5
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Really?