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Post by nicholr on Aug 28, 2011 16:08:20 GMT -5
Hi All, I read with interest the many messages on the oli pressure lite on / low oil pressure adventure in an eralier post. My issue is a little different. I finally got around to a proper refresh of my daily driver. Great bike that has, never failed me but was looking ratty. Respoked her, new shocks, new tyres, freshed all fluids, new short oil cooler lines, new oil sump/tank gasket and all new fluids. Rebuilt front calipers with fresh pistons / seals / pads and fluid. I also finally fitted a NOS buck rogers gauge housing that Sam sold me many moons ago. Mine was poor when I got the bike so I had it black powder coated. Not correct.
I put the whole sweetie back together and she (as always) fired up humming. After about 8 minutes (I was geting ready to renew the coolant) the oil pressure lite popped on. I cannot get it turned off. Oil pressure is text book. I pulled the famous sump wavy tube and ensured the screen was clean with free with o-ring in place( I did not remove this prior to the lite coming on however). Tried 'another' new oil filtre to ensure I did not have dud (ots of oil in the filtre and cooler). Replaced the oil pressure switch (no change). Checked the oil cooler for flow (a-ok). I am using Rotella 20-50 with levels at perfect. I am now going into the wiring to see if I pinched anything (shorted) during the housing replacement. No intention of slitting my wrists but REALLY frustrated and up against a brick wall at this point. In the meantime to get a break I am finishing up an A model for my brother. Summer is ending here and I dearly want this resolved for some autumn riding. Any ideas?
Ron
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Post by wayne on Aug 28, 2011 19:08:07 GMT -5
The oil pressure switch itself could be faulty. It was on mine and that's why I discovered the hidden problem of no oil flow and later low pressure. One of the posters on my oil pressure thread also said that he'd encountered faulty switches.
The book test is very simple but without it in front of me, I won't try and tell you. It's simply a matter of using a resistance meter and testing between where the wire attaches and the switch body. That will quickly tell you if that is the problem. Else it could be crud in the small hole at the base of the switch preventing oil pressure from turning off the switch itself.
Also, have you tried disconnecting the wire, seeing if the light then goes out. If it doesn't, you'd then expect a crimped wire shorting somewhere- at least it would clear the switch.
BTW, I assume when you say pressure is good, you used a gauge ?
Wayne
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Post by nicholr on Sept 1, 2011 17:59:22 GMT -5
Many thanks for the tips. Sometime back O bought some repros of technical bulletins from Sam and in them is a testing process for the switch which (now that I am finally home) I will try. Yes I did use a pressure guage routed thru the oil pressure switch orifice and as stated the beast makes spot on oil pressure at idle and at rpm. It looks absolutely stupendous and is ready to ride save for this perplexing problem. I will let you know what I discover on the switch. Are these still available?
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Post by Al Corelli on Sept 1, 2011 20:46:58 GMT -5
If the only thing you touched was the gauge housing, the first place I would check is the wiring up there.
And, you did say the pressure is spot on.
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Post by wayne on Sept 2, 2011 19:43:47 GMT -5
I recently bought an oil pressure switch from Jess so give him a go.
Did you try undoing the wire from the oil pressure switch and seeing if the light goes out ?
Wayne
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Post by nicholr on Sept 9, 2011 9:48:22 GMT -5
HI guys,
Thank you so much for the interest in my issue. I am feeling quite 'stumped' and your support is hugely appreciated. I did an oil pressure test from the sensor orifice using the appropriate pressure guage and the results I get are 'by the book' at both idle and at rpm. During the refresh I replaced the oil tank gasket for a weep and torqued it to spec. I pulled the pick up tube to ensure the screen was clean and took care to ensure it's seal was properly fitted when I put it back in. I replace both short fabric oil cooler lines. For the cluster all I did was replace the housing but I did of course did have to unplug the guage pack from the main harness to do that. This is an M model. When I started the bike after the oil and filtre change it ran great, no lights and all was well. About 8 minutes into the warmup idle I saw the light come on and I cannot turn it out. Pulling the wire off of the switch does not turn the light out.
I pulled the filtre to ensure it was OK and the oil was frothing in it so I put another new filtre on and retested it to no change?
If the bike exihibits good oil pressure as tested at the oil pressure switch outlet does that mean the bearings and related engine galleys are getting adequate pressure? I am worried after multiple restarts during this testing that the engine is not getting properly lubricated.
I am at the point where I am ready to start dis-assembling that side of the engine to see of the pump and drives are OK but my head is telling me (based on what I have discovered thus far) that the problem is not mechanical. Again I am no expert so any and all suggestions are very much appreciated.
Ron
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Post by mike500 on Sept 9, 2011 11:03:14 GMT -5
with the wire off the switch the light should go out,it sounds like you have the wire trapped to earth somewere wich would cause the light to stay on regards mike
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Post by wayne on Sept 9, 2011 21:07:15 GMT -5
Removing the wire and seeing if the light goes out was a critical test. As it doesn't go out (I'm assuming you haven't got it dangling in such a way that it's touching engine or frame), I'm with Mike, all you've got is a short in that circuit.
Given your pressures are good with the gauge, I wouldn't be worried about my engine, I think that all is good mechanically.
Frothing in the oil sump is also pretty normal.
Wayne
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