didge
2nd Gear
Posts: 158
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Post by didge on Aug 25, 2011 17:17:29 GMT -5
My fuel sensor is dripping fuel, I've taken it out and put a blanking plate in it's place so I can still use the bike, but I obviously want to get it sorted.
You can push the sensor up and down through the main plate, so what would you seal it with, or is the unit knackered ?
I also discovered the bolts on the tap and sensor were wet, and as you all know (but I didn't) the bolts don't use a washer but a "gasket", I'm imagining they would be copper, would that be right ?
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FC Zach
3rd Gear
Eagleville, TN
Posts: 335
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Post by FC Zach on Aug 25, 2011 21:08:34 GMT -5
"You can push the sensor up and down through the main plate, so what would you seal it with, or is the unit knackered ?"
I would say that the unit is scrap if you can move the sensor against the mounting flange, although someone here may have a trick up their sleeve to remedy the issue. I've seen replacement units at RR and they're nice, to top it off the sensor sits higher than the OE unit which will buy you more time to get fuel since we all know how terribly close to out of fuel the OE unit is once it trips the light.
". . .the bolts don't use a washer but a "gasket", I'm imagining they would be copper, would that be right ?"
Yeah, from the factory the bolts were sealed with a gasket material, the replacement unit as mentioned above will come with a pair of synthetic white sealing washers. I suppose copper would work as well too.
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Post by wayne on Aug 25, 2011 22:35:24 GMT -5
I was recently sent some sealing material specifically made to work inside fuel tanks (and thus fuel soaked). It seemed to do a very good job of getting in and around the critical area where the components exit through the main plate. I have not tested this as yet, but given the goo is MADE for inside fuel tanks, it should work. I'm home next week and will look up the details if you're interested.
Another solution from someone else a long time ago was to pour some (presumably fuel resistant) paint into the tank and let it leak out of the fuel sensor until it went off and hardened. Apparently this worked for him.
Wayne
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FC Zach
3rd Gear
Eagleville, TN
Posts: 335
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Post by FC Zach on Aug 26, 2011 0:16:56 GMT -5
I was recently sent some sealing material specifically made to work inside fuel tanks (and thus fuel soaked). It seemed to do a very good job of getting in and around the critical area where the components exit through the main plate. I have not tested this as yet, but given the goo is MADE for inside fuel tanks, it should work. I'm home next week and will look up the details if you're interested. That reminds me of that stuff i posted in a separate thread, SealAll i believe is the name of the stuff.
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Post by wayne on Aug 26, 2011 1:35:36 GMT -5
I've just checked some old posts. The stuff I used came from Kettle who bought some on UK ebay. It's called PR1422A sealant and it's aviation grade. The packs were double sealed and covered in all sorts of warnings with a very special mixing procedure (a system where you mix the chemicals without every exposing it to the air).
It looks so nasty, it must be good. Do a search for that part number on ebay and you may come up with it.
As mentioned, I've used it and repaired two fuel units but these have not been fitted to fuel filled gas tanks as yet.
Wayne
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Post by ziggystardust on Aug 26, 2011 6:17:40 GMT -5
Easy fix Didge, get down to Halfrauds and get some petrol tank sealer/filler, the type that you mix two tube compounds together.
Looking at the sensor there is a seal that may have failed in the middle, remove that and clean the area, then mix some of the filler and very carefully seal around the bottom of the unit where the seal was, don't make it too big or it may not go back into the tank or seat properly.
Clean the underside of the tank where it sits and apply a thin film of Universal Blue by Hylomar, also apply to the rubber seal on the bottom of the sensor, now fit to the tank.
You can use copper washers but also apply the Hylomar to the washers and under the screw heads as well.
Worked on both my RE5s.
Z
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didge
2nd Gear
Posts: 158
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Post by didge on Aug 26, 2011 14:21:37 GMT -5
That sounds the easiest option Lee, cheers.
Blue Hylomar is good for fuel is it, not red ? I'll get some.
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