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Post by snowrench on Jan 28, 2011 1:50:49 GMT -5
 So I picked up a 76 Re5 with 2700 miles on it, last ran in 02 or so. Per Rotary Recycle I set out to put a little 20-50w in the bore to lube it up, but the spark plug aint coming out, period. I figured if I can start it maybe the warm cases will let the plug go, and I'll put it back in with anti-seize. So I've drained the carb already, but now I fill the carb with Mystery Oil, and pump that through the carb into the bore. (that would never work with 20-50..) I do that and slowly kick the bike about 50 times. Lots of compression, makes a healthy chug. Then I gas her up, start cranking in earnest. She fires, runs for a few seconds, dies, and I haven't gotten her to stay running again, although she keeps popping like she wants to go. Starter got pretty hot, so I had to back off, and starter clutch keeps kicking out pretty bad to boot... I know I got her flooded, because gas came dripping out the exhaust. So whats got me worried is that now I feel no compression when I kicki t, just a steady push. I'm sure I washed the oil out of the bore, way too well actually. Could I have damaged the seals/bore by flooding this thing? Do regular GS starters fit this bike? I'm not going to muscle up on the plug, I want it hot first, I've been a mechanic for years, I know the limits... Any advice? This is my first rotary.... I don't feel this would have hurt a piston engine, cranking a washed cylinder won't hurt as long as normal oiling resumes upon running.
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Post by ziggystardust on Jan 28, 2011 7:10:27 GMT -5
The oil within the rotor housing may have given you a false impression that you had compression.
I suggest that you take the exhausts and manifold off and align the apex seals one by one at the exhaust opening, with your finger or a length of wooden dowel and a flash light feel if the apex seals are free to push back on their springs.
If no movement then this could be a problem, they will need to be coaxed free, read the archives. If they are free then it's a step in the right direction.
I'll add that a good RE5 is very difficult to to kick over under compression.
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Post by Jess on Jan 28, 2011 10:18:44 GMT -5
The plug is most certainly fouled, as the Re5 plug is very sensitive to fuel fouling... so staring with that plug is almost surely out of the question.
The starter sprag clutch and starter are two seperate systems and independant of one another. If the starter was used until it became hot to the touch, it may be ruined. When they get that hot, they have a tendency to sling the solder from the windings.
The sprag clutch is located inside the base of the clutch basket. You have to dissassemble the clutch side of the bike, and remove the basket to get at it.
There is no way to explain what rotary compression "feels" like. The ONLY true test is to get a compression tester and get an accurate reading.
Best of luck...
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Post by snowrench on Jan 28, 2011 19:38:16 GMT -5
Went to fire her again today, and she fired right up, ran for about 2 seconds and died, and wouldn't restart. So I didn't fry the starter, but the sprag clutch is very bad. I need to get that plug out, but damn...I know it's going to break... I haven't had as good luck starting it with the choke on as I have with it off. Gotta get a manual, plug and sprag.... I'll order it soon.
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Post by snowrench on Mar 10, 2011 0:18:25 GMT -5
So I picked up '75 Re5 that I found on here in a set of 3 sitting in Seattle.... the other two are headed to Japan.... Got it home, and found a new sparkplug box under the seat, and that new plug loosely in the engine. Finally got the plug out of the 76, put the new plug in, gave her a couple of squirts, kicked, and she's ALIVE! Now I'm gonna see if I can get that 75 running too. It's far less corroded, and very complete. Speedo lens is toasted though, and I'm missing one of the studs that holds the intake on. How hard is it to replace that Starter sprag....
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Post by snowrench on Apr 10, 2011 0:16:29 GMT -5
 I've been getting just too lucky! I've been riding my Re5 around and it runs great! The sprag problem seems to have fixed itself, a charging problem seems to have been corrected by cleaning off the rectifier mounting point, and it seems to run well! Some minor problems... I bought the wrong battery, and it just doesn't seem to have the ompf to start her cold, does fine when hot though. And she only seems to want to start with the choke OFF, and then run with the choke ON! Lever down to start, lever up to run... I know it's backwards, but it works.... My next concern is the radiator. Every thing seems to work fine, the guage goes up to the normal range; BUT.... There is always a little puddle of coolant coming out the hose at the end of every ride, and the fan has never yet come on, but it has been cool out. Maybe everything is fine.... I just can't believe it... This bike still has only 2800 miles on it, but it is INSANELY corroded. It's almost comical. I have half a mind to leave it this way, as a rat bike, but I'm also thinking about doing a budget resto... And here's my scheme... I DON'T want to take the engine out of the frame for blasting and powder coating. Sometimes when things get taken that far apart they never really go back together again. I'm thinking about doing an "engine in" soda blast, taking care not to over blast the harness and other things, lightly doing the aluminum, and handpainting the frame and components with Por-15. I think I could do a very presentable job. I plan to Hi-temp black the exaust, and maybe paint the fenders as well. I'm contemplating a "custom Cafe" treatment of this A model. My bike was manu. in 3-75, and some Orange is showing through the black on the sidecovers, so I'm thinking it's one of the dealer conversions. I'm investigating blacking out a number of the other horribly pitted chrome pieces too. I just can't bring myself to cannabilize the M model until I know if it's a runner. It's actually in way better shape than the A, and appears complete. Restoring this bike is out of my budget, and the corrosion is so bad that getting creative is sounding like the only option....
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Post by mike500 on Apr 10, 2011 6:20:23 GMT -5
the choke lever is down for on and up for off hope that helps
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So I picked up a 76 Re5 with 2700 miles on it, last ran in 02 or so. Per Rotary Recycle I set out to put a little 20-50w in the bore to lube it up, but the spark plug aint coming out, period. I figured if I can start it maybe the warm cases will let the plug go, and I'll put it back in with anti-seize. So I've drained the carb already, but now I fill the carb with Mystery Oil, and pump that through the carb into the bore. (that would never work with 20-50..) I do that and slowly kick the bike about 50 times. Lots of compression, makes a healthy chug. Then I gas her up, start cranking in earnest. She fires, runs for a few seconds, dies, and I haven't gotten her to stay running again, although she keeps popping like she wants to go. Starter got pretty hot, so I had to back off, and starter clutch keeps kicking out pretty bad to boot... I know I got her flooded, because gas came dripping out the exhaust. So whats got me worried is that now I feel no compression when I kicki t, just a steady push. I'm sure I washed the oil out of the bore, way too well actually. Could I have damaged the seals/bore by flooding this thing? Do regular GS starters fit this bike? I'm not going to muscle up on the plug, I want it hot first, I've been a mechanic for years, I know the limits... Any advice? This is my first rotary.... I don't feel this would have hurt a piston engine, cranking a washed cylinder won't hurt as long as normal oiling resumes upon running.
I've been getting just too lucky! I've been riding my Re5 around and it runs great! The sprag problem seems to have fixed itself, a charging problem seems to have been corrected by cleaning off the rectifier mounting point, and it seems to run well! Some minor problems... I bought the wrong battery, and it just doesn't seem to have the ompf to start her cold, does fine when hot though. And she only seems to want to start with the choke OFF, and then run with the choke ON! Lever down to start, lever up to run... I know it's backwards, but it works.... My next concern is the radiator. Every thing seems to work fine, the guage goes up to the normal range; BUT.... There is always a little puddle of coolant coming out the hose at the end of every ride, and the fan has never yet come on, but it has been cool out. Maybe everything is fine.... I just can't believe it... This bike still has only 2800 miles on it, but it is INSANELY corroded. It's almost comical. I have half a mind to leave it this way, as a rat bike, but I'm also thinking about doing a budget resto... And here's my scheme... I DON'T want to take the engine out of the frame for blasting and powder coating. Sometimes when things get taken that far apart they never really go back together again. I'm thinking about doing an "engine in" soda blast, taking care not to over blast the harness and other things, lightly doing the aluminum, and handpainting the frame and components with Por-15. I think I could do a very presentable job. I plan to Hi-temp black the exaust, and maybe paint the fenders as well. I'm contemplating a "custom Cafe" treatment of this A model. My bike was manu. in 3-75, and some Orange is showing through the black on the sidecovers, so I'm thinking it's one of the dealer conversions. I'm investigating blacking out a number of the other horribly pitted chrome pieces too. I just can't bring myself to cannabilize the M model until I know if it's a runner. It's actually in way better shape than the A, and appears complete. Restoring this bike is out of my budget, and the corrosion is so bad that getting creative is sounding like the only option....