Sparkplug adapter feedback...

[pmcburney]

I've not long fitted one of Jess' excellent sparkplug adapters to my RE.

There are a couple of feedback points I'd like to pass on (if I may) relating to niggles I had fitting it and getting it to work as intended.


1. I found that it is a little difficult to fit a standard (long reach) socket into the adapter when the plug is fully seated.

This is possibly easily solved by using a proper sparkplug socket (thin walled) as opposed to a standard socket, but it's a trap for young players a bit.

It basically means you have to fit the plug to the adapter before fitting the whole setup to the engine, and modify a socket to get it to fit around the sparkplug hex properly when seated.

I understand the clearance arrangement around the sparkplug within the adapter.

Just be aware you may need a thin-walled socket to tighten the sparkplug correctly.


2. The position of the factory plug thread insert in the rotor housing may be slightly different in each engine, which may cause clearance issues with the adapter and plug in the bottom of the sparkplug well.

Let me explain...

After fitting my new plug and adapter for the first time, I started my bike (with a little difficulty) and went for a ride.

The bike ran like a dog, and I had some initial misgivings about the whole setup, but I know Jess has done a lot of work on this so it confused me greatly as to why it wasn't working properly.

I removed the adapter when I got home and examined the end of the plug closely and I found that one of the outer electrodes was bent/squashed in significantly against the centre electrode.

It seems on my bike at least that the adapter places the end of the plug too close to the bottom of the sparkplug well.
This of course had closed the sparkplug gap and was preventing the sparkplug from sparking properly (that's why it ran like a dog!).

I searched through my stash of washers and found and old oil-line fitting crush-washer that fitted perfectly beneath the sparkplug in the adapter.

This allows the plug to sit about 0.5mm further within the adapter, which prevents the electrode from being bent, which allows the sparkplug to work correctly, which means the bike now runs great!

It may pay to measure the position of your OEM sparkplug in your sparkplug well before fitting the new adapter and sparkplug.

Take note of the line of discolouration on your old OEM sparkplug to get an idea of how far in your old plug was and compare it to the adapter and new sparkplug.


I'm now exceedingly happy with the way it works and I won't be going back to an OEM plug.

Even if the adapted sparkplugs last only as long as OEM, at about ten bucks each, it won't cost a small fortune to keep my RE on the road.


Cheers
Paul McB

[Jess]

Paul,

First thanks for the feedback. We did extensive testing and did not run into that problem, but it makes sense that their might be differences in the richness of the casting of the plug insert in the engine.

I also never thought of the socket clearance issue. I presumed that folks would use a standard deep well socket as opposed to a spark plug socket, but have found that standard deep well sockets are not really "standard". I have had to purchase for one austrailian owner some sockets and send them as apparently, the sockets sold in OZ are thicker.

One question, did you use the crush washer that came with the spark plug and then have to add an additional crush washer?

If so, I will add with any future adaptors a flat copper sealing washer to act as a spacer.

Again, feedback is important... and I appreciate the help.

Best,

Jess

[Jess]

Well...

Now I have some egg on my face...

Apparently, my tools are just plain old and they "don't make em like they used to"...

I have had the same set of craftsman tools for umpteen years and that was the socket I used to design the plug adaptor. Aparently, (I went today to buy some more) they have changed the design. The new ones don't slide into the recess. My old one fits like a glove.

I will work to source some sockets for those that need them and if not, my suggestion is that a cheap socket and a grinder will make it work...

Not the best solution, but a solution for now.

All of the standard sockets I looked at will work, if the adaptor is out of the engine. It just does not slide all the way down.

As the plug should only be tightened to about 8 foot pounds this should be a non issue... Just inconvienient.

As always, if anyone is dissatisfied, I will happily return thier purchase price.

Again, feedback is important... It helps me to make things better.

Best,

Jess

[pmcburney]

Jan 27, 2011 9:17:45 GMT -5 Jess said:

Paul,

First thanks for the feedback. We did extensive testing and did not run into that problem, but it makes sense that their might be differences in the richness of the casting of the plug insert in the engine.

I also never thought of the socket clearance issue. I presumed that folks would use a standard deep well socket as opposed to a spark plug socket, but have found that standard deep well sockets are not really "standard". I have had to purchase for one austrailian owner some sockets and send them as apparently, the sockets sold in OZ are thicker.

One question, did you use the crush washer that came with the spark plug and then have to add an additional crush washer?

If so, I will add with any future adaptors a flat copper sealing washer to act as a spacer.

Again, feedback is important... and I appreciate the help.

Best,

Jess

Hey Jess,


The washer I used was in addition to the crush washer on the sparkplug.

We're only talking fractions of a millimetre when it comes to clearance.
It's probably not an issue for most folks, but I reckon it pays to do some measuring prior to fitting the adapter and plug.

I guess if it doesn't add too much to your costs, throwing in an extra washer would be good as it would then cover all contingencies.

As for the socket, well when I added a washer to my setup, the sparkplug hex was more exposed allowing me to use a standard socket better!

I wouldn't be too concerned about socket clearance. A modified socket will do the trick, or a suitable sparkplug socket.

If a person had access to a lathe, they could remove a fly-poop of material from the recess, but that would be more difficult than dodgying up a cheap socket...


Cheers
PMcB

[Jess]

Paul,

Again, I appreciate the feedback. It is how we make things better.

In the future, all plug adapters will be sent with an instruction sheet for checking clearance, as well as a copper crush washer to use for shimming if necessary.

Anyone who has purchased one and find they have a problem, send us an email and we will send you a shim gratis... Just let us know via email. Please include your name, and mailing address.

For the record, it is not possible to have the plug extend into the combustion chamber and have any possibility of impacting an apex seal... Period.

We also offer a full refund if anyone is not satisfied, no questions asked.

Best,

Jess

[Tony]

Hi all,

just "moved" to this site from micapeak (I will still "lurk" there) although it is a pain that you can't get e-mail notifications of all posts...or can you?

Anyway, I finally got a chance to go for a good long blat with one of Jess's adaptors and it worked fine. Interestingly the plug is a much better colour using the R1 plug and far less carbon build up.

Jess, in order to get at the plug in the end I simply put in a copper washer as well as the crush washer. The extra few mm it gave was enough to get a 14mm deep well socket on the plug no worries.

cheers

Tony

[raychappo]

Thanks Jess for the plug adapter, it looks like a well made spot of engineering.

I had a slight issue.
I first tried the adapter without the washer and the outer electrodes of the plug were bent in towards the centre electrode

So, I tried another new plug with the adapter, this time with the extra copper washer fitted. I didn't immediately take the plug back out to check the clearance. The bike ran although not as good as it should. I removed the plug and the outer electrodes were still being pushed in slightly towards the centre.

It looks like different engines definitely have differences in the tolerances in the plug well.

I've gone back to a standard plug for now but I will obtain either a copper washer twice as thick as the one supplied by Jess or add a second washer.

After removing the adapted plug after a good run it was a very healthy colour so the adapter looks like a great solution to the shortage of standard plugs.

Keep up the good work Jess

[wayne]

I've done about 250 klm with the new RR spark plug adaptor. I noticed that my idle, which I prefer set at 1500 rpm, dropped to 1200 rpm with the adaptor plug without touching anything. I set the stop back to 1500 rpm. Out on the road, it runs like the real plug.

I shimmed the plug with a very thin alloy gasket as I found that it was a tad too long in a spare engine I had on the bench.

I've had a couple of cold starts with the plug and while it starts just as well as the originals, my bike seems to need to warm up fully for a reliable idle with this plug. I just leave the choke on 1/2 a little bit longer. This is neither here nor there in all practicality. The plug is dirt cheap, runs perfectly and is an essential long term solution. Brilliant.

Wayne