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Post by redbug2 on Jan 24, 2011 8:50:59 GMT -5
Hello,
Was the 1975 Dome or instrument panel polished aluminum or paint? Is it the same for the taillight?
I believe it was polished aluminum but I can't be sure. There is some pitting on my taillight so I'm wonder if I should powder coat it, paint it, or polish it out.
How about the plastics? Is there any way to clean them up on the instrument panel? Any type of filler that would work well with the fine cracks? I've seen a new green flip up plastic on ebay but that sold for high $$$.
Thanks,
Redbug2
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Post by RE5Gary on Jan 24, 2011 10:28:27 GMT -5
Last I knew Jess had the instrument covers that flip up and I bet the price is really good. Contact Rotary Recycle.
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Post by supersaki on Jan 24, 2011 13:21:09 GMT -5
Hi, In restoring my 2 re5m models a great deal of effort was made in trying to establish the original finish of these items. The conclusion i came to was that they were hard chrome plated over brushed aluminium but not decorative chrome its to shiny ,you should try and remove it! (its hard). I suggest if you want the original finish then try and buy a better set because the time and cost involved in restoring the originals is excessive. Hope this helps Roy
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Post by redbug2 on Jan 24, 2011 13:38:46 GMT -5
Thanks for the replies. I always am looking for nicer parts on ebay and sometimes I find them. Second daughter now entering college so I I'm trying to keep the costs down on this restore. My goal is to make it look good while stopping the oxidation. I don't think I'm going to have the $$$ for chrome plating that would be helpful on many pieces. I would love to go totally original like ziggystartdust did and others. Maybe later. I've got a lot of the chrome to shine up ok, I don't think its as bad as ziggystardusts 75 was. I'm learning a lot and I did get it running. I love this bike! I remember when they first came out in 75, I was 12 and wanted it then. I'm glad I was able to obtain one even if its not in great shape. Here's some pictures, I need to get some more "after" pictures, I've cleaned it up a bit since I took the original pictures. cyclerestorer.com/pages/restoration_pics.php?edit_row=21
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Post by ziggystardust on Jan 24, 2011 14:48:15 GMT -5
Hi Redbug,
The clock roll and rear light roll on the M had some kind of plating, mine peeled off in large strips leaving green oxidized aluminium underneath.
My approach to restore this was to rub down the oxidized aluminium back to a smooth finish then spray with a filler paint, smooth off again then spray with a base paint then silver as in my photos, then a final couple of coats of clear lacquer. The silver darkened when the lacquer was applied, I'd hoped for a lighter silver. All done with rattle cans.
Aluminium can be polished back into life, chrome if stained or corroded will have to be re chromed, expensive or you could paint as with the rolls above. Magnesium wheels if badly stained and corroded can not be returned to their former glory.
The rear shox need to be compressed a little to gain access to a lock nut under the top eye, loosen this to unscrew the top eye.
Flip up covers if 'spider webbed' can not be reclaimed.
Safety first. Replace tyres and brake hoses.
Ziggy
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Post by steveuk on Jan 24, 2011 17:14:50 GMT -5
I rubbed mine down and sprayed it with aluminium engine enamel which was pretty close to the original colour
steve
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Post by redbug2 on Jan 25, 2011 7:12:03 GMT -5
Ziggy,
Yes, I saw the results on your 75. Looked like you painted it. Nice job. I'm thinking about trying to powder coat it. Though, there are articles about integrity of aluminum when heated over 300 degrees F. But, the taillight piece is not under a load... Maybe I will just paint it.
I think I will take a lot of artistic license with the pieces, many will get paint, some will get a powder coating. Later, when my daughter is out of school I will strip the paint and send to chrome shop.
Thanks for the shock removal method. I purchased an extra set of rear shocks which were a little better than mine. I will experiment on the worst shock.
Too bad about the rims.. Are identical replacements available? My front rim is pretty oxidized. Maybe I will just keep checking ebay, rims and tires go fairly cheap.
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Post by ziggystardust on Jan 25, 2011 11:45:11 GMT -5
I got a really good pair of rims off Jess. Very little for the RE5 here in the U.K. Exactly what paint is that Steve?
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Post by wayne on Jan 26, 2011 5:39:52 GMT -5
Hi, I spent some time years ago visiting chrome platers with a flake of the metal that was peeling off my M model instruments. I finally found one bloke who straight up said "that's Brushed Satin Chrome". Have a look at this type of finish on a restored RE5 taillight: I've had two sets of instrument housings restored and side by side to my NOS instrument housing they are very, very close. I'm in Australia, so I don't know what this finish may be called overseas but it is available from Astor metal plating in Villawood, Sydney. It is quite cheap (less than $100 for both halves of the can) and is a much better option than painting or simply polishing if you're trying to match original. Wayne
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Post by suzsmokeyallan on Feb 9, 2011 9:12:21 GMT -5
Wayne you are absolutely correct it is whats called a brushed satin chrome. However nickel plating can be made to look just like it as well so the processes are similar looking. It peels badly in high humidity due to the porosity of the aluminum casings allowing moisture to get between the case and the underlying first layer which is copper. Painting is an option, and while not stock looking it can be done with good results, especially when the cases are badly pitted from the corrosion.
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