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Post by stappy on Jan 4, 2010 16:30:48 GMT -5
Ok, so I have opened my fuel tank and the rancid stench of decrepit dead dino juice was to be smelled everywhere. I looked inside and "sloshed" the contents around and they moved like old bananna pudding. Needless to say this gooey mess followed gravity as its last act of revenge for a violent Cretaceous death. Of course it all "rolled down hill" into the carburetor and developed into a sticky stinky mess.
Before I cracked into the carb, I had made comments to my father that I was suprised at the number of people that I have read on the net that were totally scared to crack into one of these carbs. My dad looked at me and said, "most people have not had the experience with this stuff like you..." (my first carb rebuild was on a Bridgestone 90 at age 9)... SO, my question to you the RE5 board users, would anyone like me to detail my exploits in the world of two barrel goodness or would you like me to just shut up, go away, and quit mumbling on and on?
I have taken a bunch of pics with a very cheep digital camera I got for Christmas (sub $20 camera). but I can retake some with my Nikon if needed. I am willing to compile some pics and comments but if no one is gonna use em I may as well use the time to fix my coffee roaster... (mmmmmmm)
Scott
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Post by Aussie RE Man on Jan 4, 2010 19:35:48 GMT -5
Hi Scott, I’ve got two to do in the near future and welcome any help/advice you could give a virgin RE carb man. I’d be really interested also how you go with the cable set up, to me it’s mind blowing and one of the reasons i haven’t got into the carb's !!! It would also be great to have this posted on the site for all to use in the future. Cheers Simon.
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Post by RE5Gary on Jan 5, 2010 2:56:21 GMT -5
Detailing your exploits would be an excellent read and a great addition and reference for those who have never done it. I look forward to it.
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Post by stappy on Jan 5, 2010 14:35:09 GMT -5
One thing I did find interesting is I was able to pull the side cover (side of carb to rear of motorcycle) and the cables came off without removing them. I basically pulled the bolts and the cover came off and I left the whole mess still attached to the end of the cables. No adjustment will be needed as long as they were in adjustment to begin with.
I will have to wander out to the pole barn this weekend to take a picture of it.
The parts catalog picture has a nice blow up of the carb, but I do not see an item number for the cover. I can see the two cable holes in it though.
Scott
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Post by stappy on Jan 5, 2010 14:51:23 GMT -5
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Post by stappy on Jan 5, 2010 15:08:24 GMT -5
I did find it interesting that the needle and seat have a mesh filter (item 10) and there is another filter under a tin cap on the top of the carb with a similar mesh filter (breather?) and it is not called out on this page (right near the number 19)
Now I am getting ahead of myself... Let me regroup and see what I can pull together.
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shep
1st Gear
Posts: 93
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Post by shep on Jan 5, 2010 15:55:59 GMT -5
When I rebuilt mine, I didn't have that filter (#10). Jess(RR) recommended just running an inline filter anyways.
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Post by stappy on Jan 5, 2010 16:31:59 GMT -5
Yeah, the filter looks like it would stop pebbles but nothing smaller then that. It is like fine screen door screen. I think it is to stop things that could stick the float open but it would definitely pass stuff that would plug jets and scratch engines.
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Post by Jess on Jan 31, 2010 23:49:00 GMT -5
Rule number 1:
Use a high quality inline filter.
Rule number 2:
Refer to rule number 1
Rule number 3:
Failure to follow rules 1 and 2 will be hazardous to your wallet!
Best,
Jess
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Post by Jess on Jan 31, 2010 23:57:22 GMT -5
P.S.
RR rebuilds carburetors... We have $15,000 in equipment specifically designed for rebuilding the Re5 carburetors. To date, I have personally rebuilt more than 100.
I run each and every carburetor on a shop bike to make sure they are right before sending them back to their respective owner. The average cost is 200.00 plus shipping. This includes a carb kit. (60.00)
From time to time, one has been so badly damaged by a PFO that it requires a more extensive rebuild. The most a rebuild has ever cost is $400.00 that required a complete rebody of the carb.
Just an FYI
Best,
Jess
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54khbikermonger
1st Gear
In the Shed,1954 KH HarleyDavidson,1975 RE5M,1959 Hercules Roller,1993 Honda 250 NighHawk
Posts: 17 
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Post by 54khbikermonger on May 30, 2017 22:17:56 GMT -5
DO YOU STILL REBUILD CARBURATORS FOR THE RE 5 ?
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Post by Jess on Jun 1, 2017 1:45:13 GMT -5
Sorry, I no longer rebuild carburetors via mail since the close of rotary recycle.
The only way that I will work on a carburetor is if it comes attached to the motorcycle.
You are welcome to contact me via pm or at RotaryRecycle@gmail.com if you wish to schedule delivery of your motorcycle.
Best regards,
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54khbikermonger
1st Gear
In the Shed,1954 KH HarleyDavidson,1975 RE5M,1959 Hercules Roller,1993 Honda 250 NighHawk
Posts: 17
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Post by 54khbikermonger on Jun 4, 2017 17:45:21 GMT -5
would you happen to have the accelerator checkvalve ball bearing and holder plug.. this bike carb doesnt have it, the last one to work on it must have lost it..
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Post by timpa136 on Jun 5, 2017 11:55:27 GMT -5
would you happen to have the accelerator checkvalve ball bearing and holder plug.. this bike carb doesnt have it, the last one to work on it must have lost it.. You can rest easy tonight, "With a little help from my friends" I have a new ball and brass plug. If you will cover expenses and gas to the post office I'll send them off in the mail. Now is the time to be certain the passage is clean and the seat for the ball in the body is nice and clean and polished. Tim |
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