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Post by rotoryguy on Dec 25, 2020 5:40:21 GMT -5
Thank you both for replying Cruising image didn't have any brake hoses listed for RE5 - bummer.
Tim, I did find the part substitutions, however it's the hoses I'm unable to find. I've tried a lot of places but unfortunately nothing found.
So I am seeking a potential substitution for both (11) 59240-37011 and (12) 59480-18412.
The one that seemed might work for both is 59240-31012 from the GT750 But I don't know it's length from metal end to metal end. I may just buy it and see.
Merry Christmas to all!!!
Photos: RH side about 13 inches And LH Side About 13.75 inches
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Post by wayne on Dec 25, 2020 15:50:43 GMT -5
I've got a feeling I've had the GT750 hoses at some point and noted that at full extension of the front suspension the hoses down from the triple tree were pulled very tight.
With cars, I've gone to my local brake shop and got them to make me up longer hoses. Takes them minutes and cost is sensible. Don't know if they have banjos with the right angles though. May be worth asking.
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Post by hudson on Dec 25, 2020 16:54:44 GMT -5
Wayne is right the mid hoses from a GT750 are a little short and to tight in my opinion, I bought a middle set from Jess and I thought they were very reasonably priced. He probably has a complete set if you ask. The upper hose to the master cylinder is available from Suzuki only difference is the color of the hose protector spring ( original was black replacement is silver ) the lower hoses are also available from Suzuki but like I mentioned Jess probably has them all.
Merry Christmas Brian
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Post by hudson on Dec 25, 2020 17:06:50 GMT -5
Thought I should mention that the boots that cover the mid hose connection ( 59265-33100 ) you want to be very careful as those are very difficult to find, unless Jess has those also ?
Brian
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Post by rotoryguy on Dec 26, 2020 7:41:15 GMT -5
Thanks guys. I haven't tried reaching out for custom brake lines - but that is definitely a good idea.
I'll see if Jess has any then.
Also the boots and such are in good shape believe it or not. A product that I am using now on rubber parts is AT-205.
I got this idea watching Scotty on youtube - I was skeptical at first but it does work. If ya'll know other products, let me know.
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Post by timpa136 on Dec 26, 2020 10:56:58 GMT -5
I was told of a similar acting safe product that is Yamahas quart concentrate of carb cleaner to save rubber parts seals.
I have used it as a carb cleaner, it smells like the old outlawed carb cleaners of the 70's.
Our group had been invited to visit a restorer in Paris,Arkansas and he claimed to have saved a leaking GT-750 crank seal using the yamaha
carb cleaner. I don't think it would help an early type seal knocked out of place though.!
Tim
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Post by rotoryguy on Dec 27, 2020 8:09:15 GMT -5
Making some progress! Here are some pics for your enjoyment. I decided to add a grounding harness to the battery box components (CDI, starter, rectifier, regulator) - this will be grounded to the engine. You can see the yellow connector on the regulator below and the dangling end (opposite) will be connected to the engine bolt. It couldn't hurt. Also, I like working with the Chrome powder from Eastwood. I used it for the front brake brackets. I also powdered the undersides of the fenders. This time I used Evaporust for removal and a good amount of elbow grease and wire-wheel.
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Post by goandy on Jan 1, 2021 22:05:58 GMT -5
looking good!
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Post by h2e Al In Aus on Jan 2, 2021 20:19:26 GMT -5
Keep the build pitures coming and mods and fixes to old factory weaknesses , PS I have cruise moto front brake hoses on mine and dont think there is a problem and I think I did order GT750 ones as all that was listed at the time
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Post by rotoryguy on Jan 3, 2021 7:04:47 GMT -5
Thanks all for your interest and coaching! To date: - All black parts are powder coated. - Chrome fenders are renewed, but not perfect. The rust was pretty nasty and I think that the chrome used was very thin. - Wheels and electric bits are Cerakote Glacier Silver (air dry). - Chrome powder used on small bits like brake hose brackets and chain adjusters.
Fork seals used are from K&S and they are 13mm as opposed to the OEM which are about 10mm. Same dimensions otherwise.
I used 15 wt fork oil as well. I used ATF in my Goldwing and I'm not too crazy about the lightness of the front end.
Next up will be the engine work. I plan to lift the beast onto my bench and begin disassembly. I am retiring this year (eeehaaawwwww!) and will have more time. Lots of seals an o-rings to replace. And of course the required polishing and detail work. I've been memorizing the breakdown pictures and searching the web for pictures of details.
Man, what's up with the V-groove o-rings in the clutch? Very interesting.
This a fabulous learning experience! My wife asked me if I was going to restore more bikes - "Of course", I said! She gets a kick out of the before and after as we all do!
The plan is to build the major engine components in the frame - I think Wayne and Jess said it was built that way originally. It's too heavy for me to wrestle with in one piece - even with my electric lift (A Reliant Invacare 450 I bought from a garage sale).
Then I'll add the wire looms and finish her up.
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