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Post by moilabh on May 3, 2018 11:09:17 GMT -5
hi
my trusty RE5 40k on clock has runs smoothly for 7 years. It was started every three weeks in the winter and ticked over until hot. First ride of 18, usual smoke but good start and tick over o and then off choke, some oil underneath (from exhausts I think). after 300 yards opening throttle causes engine to die and trouble restarting. when left tickover good again. changed plug no change, carb chamber full of fuel, any ideas folks, anybody near me in cumbria who is good with the mikuni!
mike
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Post by timpa136 on May 3, 2018 14:55:39 GMT -5
some oil underneath (from exhausts I think).
I would check the air filter and temporarily remove the cast intake housing at the carburetor to check for any raw gas or flooding.
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Post by moilabh on May 4, 2018 23:55:02 GMT -5
thanks have taken horn off, no sign of flooding, maybe its a blocked jet? will have to take carb down I think
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Post by HGH 770N on May 5, 2018 4:38:02 GMT -5
Hi
Check accelerator punp diaphragm hasn’t split.
This will drip down to the front of exhaust.
And not spraying from jet as it should .
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zaphod
1st Gear
Writing roughshod over the English language
Posts: 7 
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Post by zaphod on May 21, 2018 21:12:54 GMT -5
Similar: I have a 1976 RE5 with 2000 miles on it. It is very hard to start and sometimes won't start for days, then cuts out when driven.
Is there a carb kit I need?
Zaphod
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Post by wayne on May 22, 2018 18:31:45 GMT -5
Similar: I have a 1976 RE5 with 2000 miles on it. It is very hard to start and sometimes won't start for days, then cuts out when driven. Is there a carb kit I need? Zaphod It's a good idea to remove the carb, give it a thorough clean, ultrasonically is really the only way to do it properly. There may be some carb kits left, send a Personal Message (PM) to member Jess, he may be able to help you. One other thing that may help, I always clamp off the fuel line when the bike's not going to be ridden for more than a few days. The petcocks become leaky, are nearly impossible to fix and fuel manages to get past the carb main valve as well. You can flood the bike easily as you attempt to start it. Very frustrating. My RE5 was exactly the same during nearly two decades of storage. Very hard to start etc etc. Since doing the above and going over the whole bike, she starts first time everytime and even fired up within seconds after 4 years on display in a museum. There is hope. |
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Post by charles on May 22, 2018 19:30:37 GMT -5
Is there a spark? (PLZ be safe)
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Post by moilabh on Jun 18, 2018 2:55:09 GMT -5
thanks for thoughts. took down carb and cleaned everything and it works just fine now. I will fit an in line petrol tap just to stop the obvious build up of fuel in the engine when left standing for a while
moilabh
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Post by timpa136 on Jun 18, 2018 14:07:37 GMT -5
Good to hear that Mike,
I have been successful in gently carefully opening up the petcock and caution that you don't loose the soft spring, and carefully fitting a new custom o ring which may be the common source of the pet cock leak in my experience. A in line valve will for sure fix it too.
Caution as the diaphragms/gaskets will be stubborn and stuck and you may risk tearing. I soak in liquids, diesel etc. when opening the petcock up. If the o-ring surface is corroded, clean it up with a wood dowell, etc. to clean the o-ring sealing surface.
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Post by HGH 770N on Jun 30, 2018 20:31:18 GMT -5
Modern fuel dose not work well with old diaphragms and seals . The original choke and accelerator diaphragms become brittle and not working after 40 odd years.
They are hard to find and replacent is very important for running correctly for
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