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Post by mjanousek on Dec 10, 2011 11:11:54 GMT -5
So I just got my sweet 1976 RE5 back to running condition and cranked it over for a test fire. It has get spark "thanks to Jess at Rotary Recycling ignition system." Fuel and compression is there. The starter cranks the motor over for about 2 seconds and pops off, as soon as you feel it fire the motor stops cranking over and I can here the starter motor just spinning. If I hit the started again you just here it spinning freely. The only way to ingage the starter again is to crank the motor over with the kickstart, and then hit the starter again. the motor starts to turn over like normal and as soon as the engine fires, same thing the motor stops cranking and again the starter spins freely....F--- me right. So close to starting and the only thing I can think this to be is what ever the starter spins to start the motor is bad, or this could be an easy fix I'm not sure. Any help or suggestions would be great. Has anyone heard of this or any experiance with this issue?
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Post by ziggystardust on Dec 10, 2011 12:05:57 GMT -5
For a simple start I'd make sure you have the correct oil in the gearbox, too heavy an oil will give you the problem you are experiencing.
Z
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Post by kettle738 on Dec 10, 2011 12:33:55 GMT -5
This is not an uncommon problem; worst case scenario you have to change the starter clutch, part #12650-37021, which is a pain because you have to remove the transmission cover and all that entails.
That said, do what Ziggy says first; changing the transmission oil to a suitable lightweight (for example 10/W40 motorcycle specific gearbox oil) can cure it as it gives the starter clutch an easier time....it stopped one of mine from spinning out.
Mick..........kettle738
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Post by mjanousek on Dec 10, 2011 13:38:50 GMT -5
Sounds good. I have not went into or changed the gearbox oil since this is the first start I have tried, so this sounds like trial and error. Does anyone have this Part for the Starter Clutch worse case.
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Post by Jess on Dec 10, 2011 15:21:47 GMT -5
We use Bel Ray 85 wt two stroke at RR in our bikes.It is designed for wet clutches.DO NOT use the Multi viscosity oil as it will cause problems. It is available online or at most bike shops.
Downside it is expensive at 12-15 per quart.
I have been experimenting with modern ATF in the trans. It is designed for a wet clutch system and it is CHEAP.
I have over 5K miles on one of the Mules and it works very well. However, I cannot speak to the long term wear in the gearbox as of yet.
The starter sprag, especially in cold climates, does not like castrol in the gear box. Castrol is like mud below 40 degrees F. What you are describing is the sprag disengaging...
The other problem is that starter sprag clutches are becoming unobatainium, and therefor expensive.
I don't believe there is any other unit that cross references.
Just my two cents...
Best,
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Post by bdalameda on Dec 10, 2011 19:45:28 GMT -5
I have been using Redline lightweight shock-proof gear oil and my starter clutch slippage has stopped after changing to this. The transmission also shift better. I have been using the Redline oil for quite sometime in other motorcycle transmissions and have found it to be very good. I also use Redline 20/50 in the engine and Redline racing two-stoke oil in the injection system. Very clean burning.
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Post by snowrench on Dec 10, 2011 23:13:20 GMT -5
Due to having the wrong battery and a bad starter relay, I have gotten used to kicking the damn thing....It works!
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Post by kettle738 on Dec 11, 2011 2:45:32 GMT -5
Hi Jess, what is the problem with multigrade gearbox oil? The oil I use is motorcycle specific 10/W40 intended for use in motorcycle gearboxes with wet clutches....hence free of car type additives.
I've used it in my GT750s for years and latterly in my RE5s with no problem at all, so if there is an issue I'd like to know what it is.
Mick.............kettle738
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Post by bdalameda on Dec 11, 2011 4:44:36 GMT -5
I would bet Jess was warning against multi-grade engine oil as many engine oils that are labeled "Energy Conserving" have anti-friction additives that can play havoc with wet clutches and things like starter sprague type clutches such as are in the RE5. An oil that is specifically engineered for gearboxes and wet clutches should be fine.
Dan
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Post by kettle738 on Dec 11, 2011 10:24:12 GMT -5
That's pretty much what I thought he may be concerned about, but as I did mention it was a bike specific gearbox oil I wondered if I had missed a trick and he knew something about multigrades that I had missed or need to know.
Mick............kettle738
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