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Post by raychappo on Sept 28, 2011 18:18:10 GMT -5
I've just stripped down my bike for a full restore.
When rebuilding the engine/gearbox are there any items that members would recommend I replace as a matter of course even if they don't look too worn to save trouble in the future?
The water pump shaft outer bush is worn and from other posts I see this is a replacement must (plus the bearing looks like it needs replacing).
Any suggestions would be welcomed.
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Post by Jess on Sept 28, 2011 20:00:42 GMT -5
Just some thoughts off the top of my head... I am sure other folks will have some good ideas.
Metering pump check valve is a must if you plan on using the bike for more than a static display.
A complete gasket set is a must... If you use the ebay gaskets because they are far less expensive than mine, pay very close attention to torque values as the material has ZERO compressability.
The four 6mm x 175 water pump bolts should be replaced. I always replace all of the socket head caps as they are not terribly expensive and bolts stretch as they are re torqued over and over.
Obviously all seals oil seals orings and water pump seal. The water pump housing bushing is a good idea.
Inspect and measure all clutch plates... (they are pretty tough) The clutch basket should also be inspected for tightness of the bands. Most of the roller bearings have not done enough miles to warrent replacement, but they are very easy to check.
You might want to change the starter sprauge clutch, as a matter of course, as they were weak in the early bikes.
The transmission is bulletproof. not much to do in there.
DO NOT disassemble the metering pump. They were indexed at the factory.
Measure your primary chain and make sure it is within specs (service manual) if not, now is the time to replace.
Just my 2 cents...
Best
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Post by raychappo on Sept 20, 2012 8:13:44 GMT -5
Chrome work back from platers today. They've done a great job, I'd recommend them. They are a little pricey, but then again you pay for what you get. Marque Restore in Shilton near Coventry. Frame and other bits now powder coated and looking pretty damn good. Engine casings going to be vapour blasted and I'll strip off lacquer and polish outer casings. Wheels going off next week to have rims polished, hubs blasted and rebuilt with new stainless butted spokes, then the rebuild can begin  |
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Post by mike500 on Sept 20, 2012 11:59:48 GMT -5
good luck ray and it would be nice to see pics as it comes along regards mike
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Post by oggynator on Oct 1, 2012 14:27:20 GMT -5
Just some thoughts off the top of my head... I am sure other folks will have some good ideas. Metering pump check valve is a must if you plan on using the bike for more than a static display. MoinMoin, this means to measure that the pump works in specification? Thanks Andreas |
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t140v
3rd Gear
Posts: 422
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Post by t140v on Oct 1, 2012 15:58:00 GMT -5
Just some thoughts off the top of my head... I am sure other folks will have some good ideas. Metering pump check valve is a must if you plan on using the bike for more than a static display. Hi Andreas, I think that they mean its a good Idea to renew the oil pump check valve on the oil line to the carburettor, the Suzuki valves are not reliable and can fail, result :- engine failure, Rotary Recycle can supply a new check valve which Jess has had manufactured and uprated to be a lot more reliable. Regards Stuart. MoinMoin, this means to measure that the pump works in specification? Thanks Andreas |
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Post by oggynator on May 12, 2013 15:04:53 GMT -5
Moin, is the check valve only in the line to the chain? (I have a A without chainoiling) It looks so in the parts catalouge. No 2  Andreas |
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t140v
3rd Gear
Posts: 422
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Post by t140v on May 13, 2013 7:38:40 GMT -5
Hi Andreas, the check valve is at the carburetor on both the A and the M models. If it fails the engine dies. It is part number 27 and is attached to the carb next to the fuel inlet.
Stuart
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Post by timpa136 on May 13, 2013 23:34:26 GMT -5
Sounds like you are going to do a wonderful restoration.
Tim
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Post by oggynator on May 15, 2013 15:20:38 GMT -5
Hi Andreas, the check valve is at the carburetor on both the A and the M models. If it fails the engine dies. It is part number 27 and is attached to the carb next to the fuel inlet. Stuart Thanks ,I ordered the new valve. Andreas |
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Post by oggynator on Jun 23, 2013 1:18:28 GMT -5
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Post by tom93gts on Jun 27, 2013 12:36:22 GMT -5
You can do the epoxy modification to it, or like I did just an inline valve to shut off flow to the carb.
You must do one of these, rebuilding never seems to work right. They always drip into the carb causing it to overflow into the engine and flooding after sitting for more than a few minutes.
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