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Post by gpdesign on Apr 18, 2011 12:09:52 GMT -5
Well I've finally go got my '76 running well (thanks to the post about upsizing the main jet - a .95 made it run sweet!).
Now the next problem to tackle is the coolant dribbling out of the tell tale hole. I tried adding Bars leak in the coolant but no luck. Is the next step removing the entire large right hand engine case to replace the coolant shaft seal? Should I address anything else once I'm in there? Any tricks or tips to make this as painless as possible?
Thanks, Greg
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Post by ziggystardust on Apr 18, 2011 15:04:32 GMT -5
You could check the clutch and see if the clutch centre nut has not worked loose while you are in there.
You need a new running mechanical seal and a sealing compound, see the RE5 service manual. May as well change the bearing and oil seal while you have the water pump out.
Don't try to remove the impellar from the spindle as you could break it.
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Post by kettle738 on Apr 18, 2011 15:53:06 GMT -5
Excellent advice from Ziggy about not trying to remove the impeller......follow it.
Another useful tip is to make a small locking bar for the points shaft to hold it in the correct position while you re fit the large casing, it's very easy to replace it one tooth out, which makes ignition timing interesting.
As Ziggy said it is well worth covering as many tasks as you can while that casing is off.
Mick.........kettle738
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Post by ziggystardust on Apr 18, 2011 17:11:48 GMT -5
Yeah Mick that's a good tip as well, another I forgot to mention is check the water pump spindle carbon bearing in the outer casing for wear, RR has replacements.
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Post by gpdesign on Apr 18, 2011 18:00:05 GMT -5
Thanks for the tips! I checked the spindle bearing and it looks OK.
Is it possible to pull off the clutch cover with the points housing in place? The bike is running so well I don't want mess with the timing if possible. I'll make sure to lock the points shaft.
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Post by wayne on Apr 19, 2011 4:41:54 GMT -5
Yes, you can pull off the clutch cover with the points housing in place.
Wayne
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Post by ziggystardust on Apr 19, 2011 9:44:59 GMT -5
Don't forget to drain the oil first.
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Post by gpdesign on Apr 19, 2011 11:44:36 GMT -5
Thanks for the advice! time to get the parts and dive in.
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FC Zach
3rd Gear
Eagleville, TN
Posts: 335
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Post by FC Zach on Apr 21, 2011 15:44:33 GMT -5
Thanks for the tips! I checked the spindle bearing and it looks OK. Is it possible to pull off the clutch cover with the points housing in place? The bike is running so well I don't want mess with the timing if possible. I'll make sure to lock the points shaft. Although the distributor has to come off with the right side cover, you will have to set the timing gears in their proper position for assembly. And like Mick said (along with a useful tip), make sure the distributor shaft doesn't spin out of place while assembling. Good luck.
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Post by gpdesign on May 16, 2011 10:55:55 GMT -5
Well I managed to screw up the job by not realizing that the coolant seal face is some sort of hard graphite - I cracked it using a seal driver putting it in . I'll get another one and try again being more carefull! I also put in a new oil seal, but now I'm wondering if I got that right. Does anyone know which side of the seal should face towards the coolant impeller?
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Post by raychappo on May 16, 2011 11:29:44 GMT -5
Looking at the diagram in the service manual, the closed flat face of the oil seal goes against the bearing and therefore the open side toward the impeller
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Post by kettle738 on May 16, 2011 13:03:36 GMT -5
If you have access to a lathe I found it worthwhile to make a couple of specific drivers to install the water and oil seals from nylon bar, both in first time, no damage.
Mick.........kettle738
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Post by gpdesign on May 16, 2011 14:22:36 GMT -5
I plan on making a nylon/plastic driver this time. Did you just drive in the coolant seal on its face, or did you have the driver somehow connect with the metal lower part directly?
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Post by kettle738 on May 16, 2011 14:35:46 GMT -5
From memory I made both drifts so that they could not damage the seals, I think I made the one for the delicate sprung seal just strike the outside edge, but supporting the centre, if you pm me your e mail address I will send you a couple of photos of what I made....I still can't get to grips with pics on this forum I'm afraid.
Mick..........kettle738
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Post by gpdesign on May 16, 2011 15:51:57 GMT -5
Thanks Mick - PM sent!
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