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Post by gttim on Aug 28, 2008 6:52:28 GMT -5
...and people call me a troublemaker a fight starter!!!
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Post by suzsmokeyallan on Aug 28, 2008 8:35:20 GMT -5
Well if you hear comments that dont make logical sense or lean very much in one direction, its up for a debate. Sooooo in this case I"LL be the official sh** disturber, heck why not. I have no issues using GTX 20/50W in my RE5 actually it makes my life easier since i have it already. Heres something i thought id put into the conversation, theres this little 3.5hp GV150 series Honda side valve engine ive had from 1978 in a lawnmower. One day i decided to try some Castrol syntec in it after a valve job to see how this oil would work. This particular engine will start from cold and idle without choke, so i pull the cord and its clattering to hell, sounds like the con-rod lower caps falling off,i quickly stop it and think hmm thats not good. After looking around at a few things i pull the cord again, same loud internal clattering, so i rev it, wow sounds like its toasted lots more clattering. So i drain the Syntec oil out and pour back in the GTX stuff its always used, one pull and after a brief clatter for about two or so seconds, its QUIET again, no falling apart sound. Now i know some of you will be thinking the engines obviously got some issues but i can tell you ive been in it a few times for ring replacement and honing the bore etc. Its in good shape internally, so whats up with that syntec stuff.
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Post by gttim on Aug 28, 2008 9:13:33 GMT -5
Hey, I'm just being sarcastic. I'm there with ya. I just posted to the other board too. I edited what was a longer more scathing character assassination down to what you may see when you get there. I'll save the H-Bomb for the next round, you know me. I HATE BULLIES!
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Post by Jess on Aug 31, 2008 17:25:32 GMT -5
Well what does the author of this thrad use and why? Haven't heard from him on the subject? Where has he been lately anyway? I use what Sam recomends... Good old Castrol GTX 20-50. Works for me... Work has been mucho crazy, so I have not been around as much as I would like But I try to check in from time to time... Best, Jess
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Post by Jess on Oct 25, 2008 22:34:00 GMT -5
Come on... we need some CONFLICT>>>
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Post by tom93gts on Oct 25, 2008 23:55:21 GMT -5
We are all pacifists, so you aren't going to get that conflict you crave
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Post by gttim on Oct 26, 2008 0:18:40 GMT -5
I have bigger fish to fry...
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Post by g11ary on Feb 6, 2009 21:26:02 GMT -5
Dont have a RE5 so only my opinion.
Im suprised you USA guys have not tried Royal Purple.
Great fully Synthetic oil, burns real clean. Make all the grades you want and make one for motorcycles so as not to get sticky clutch that can happen with others in the transmission.
Anyone tried it?
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Post by Jess on Feb 7, 2009 13:51:58 GMT -5
Have not tried Royal Purple...
There is a school of thought that Says..."Don't run Synthetic in a Rotary..."
I don't know if it has any truth or just a booga booga thing...
Hell, Leno even says "Stick with Dino... Rotaries don't like Syn", in one of the Jay's garage Segments.
Honestly, I know of no reason except that I don't want to blow my motor up... No more NOS proper units out there.
I would be curious to here from the MAzda Guys...
Best,
Jess
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Post by g11ary on Feb 8, 2009 10:08:27 GMT -5
I doubt no one will ever get to the bottom of oil. I quite often see the same blinkered approach, if it ant broke dont fix it. Mazda was saying use mineral, but it makes sense that was 20 years ago, and like everything its all moved on. Lots of Mazda guys are saying use mineral but using a semi syn as its mineral based. Even Mazdas Dexelia oil is mineral with low ash additives. Royal Purple does burn very clean, you can get the oil recommended for Suzuki's so someone need to look at it. The top technician at RP has been racing Rotaries for 20 years and has beast of a track car, though it can be agued that the engine wont be expected to last as long as you want the RE5 to last. Ive been selling and using RP in UK for my Mazdas for 3-4 years and no customers have complained as yet. P is not very well know here in UK but in USA is a big name, thought you guys based in USA would be able to take advantage of there expertise over there.
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Post by hunter on Dec 31, 2011 5:20:27 GMT -5
I use Castrol SAE 30 (for use in small 4 stroke engines) in metering tank. I use straight SAE 30 because my user manuals for my W2000 and Norton Classic say to not use multigrade oils. Castrol gear oil suitable for 2 stroke gearboxes in gearbox, because over the years I found a better feel to clutch operation in my other bikes. Mobile 15-40 in sump just because I like mobbile oil and could get reasonably cheap.
Now, in my air cooled Norton Classic I use Mobile DD-40 low ash, for use in Detroit 2 cycle diesals. The thicker oil because air cooled runs a litter hotter. Manual gives options of SAE 30 or 40.
In my Hercules W2000, I use Castrol SAE 30 as well, Am thinking of changing to Mobile DD SAE 40 because I have been able to get 30 litres of for nothing.
Kim H. oz
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Post by bdalameda on Dec 31, 2011 12:43:10 GMT -5
I use Redline 20/50 in the sump, Redline lightweight shockproof gear oil in the tranny and Redline Racing two-stroke in the injection. It is not that I am a Redline oil freak or anything as there are many good oils it is just that I know from building racing engines and rebuilding engines for over 35 years that Redline Two and Four-stroke engine oils burn very very clean and in four strokes leave no carbon residues around the rings lands so I feel that this would be a plus for keeping the seals clean and free of carbon. I use the two stroke oil in the injection simply because two-stroke oil is engineered to mix easily with fuel and burn cleanly during combustion. Much the same requirement in two-stroke engine as in the rotary engine that require the apex seals to remain clean and free of carbon. Oils must mix well in fuel and keep the engine free of carbon and reduce plug fouling. My personal belief is that two stroke oils are better for this application. Many automotive formulated oils do not mix easily in fuel and this does not make them suitable for oil injection systems where the oil is injected into the float bowl like the RE5.
There is no question in my mind that the newer synthetic oils are fine in the rotary engine. The original warning not to run synthetic in Rotaries came when Mazda published a warning back in the early 80's about synthetic oils causing the apex seals to chatter. They were then running a oil called EON which was one of the first true synthetic oils on the market and the formulation was quite a bit different from current synthetic oil additive packages.
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Post by snowrench on Dec 31, 2011 23:13:30 GMT -5
I got a case of fully synthetic Castrol 20-50w GPS Motorcycle oil that was made in Italy off of craigslist. It is quite red, but seems to work well. I'm running that in the sump, Harley Davidson Sportster fluid in the tranny/clutch/chaincase, and conventional Castrol 20-50w cut with a little Marvel oil in the 'injector' oil. I figure the Sportster fluid would be good for a chaincase/clutch/tranny combo that you find in the re5 since that is the way Sporty's are set up. You wouldn't want a hypoid 80-90 gear oil near your clutch plates, although I'm sure the chaincase and tranny would like it.
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Post by markwildig on Jan 8, 2012 19:26:55 GMT -5
What's best to use as transmission oil ? Or am I going to open another can of worms !! Cheers Mark
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Post by bdalameda on Jan 8, 2012 21:27:18 GMT -5
I use Redline Lightweight Shockproof gear oil in my RE5 and in many other motorcycles transmissions. I do not know where you are located but it is readily available in the US. It is important to use an oil that does not interfere with the operation of the sprague starter clutch that the RE5 uses. Oils that have additives to reduce friction are usually marked "Energy Conserving" at least in the USA. These oils can play havoc with the starter clutch causing it to slip and not engage properly. Many RE5 owners run conventional motor oils in the gearbox - I prefer to use an oil formulated for a gearbox. I am sure others have their favorites. I also have noticed that the primary drive chain seems to last longer when using a gear oil vs. some motor oils. Hope this helps - I feel the earth beginning to shake!!!
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