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Post by ponytail on Nov 10, 2009 12:11:07 GMT -5
what kind of temp should we be looking for as far as radiater goes, sitting and tunning temp gets to 185-200 raditor 160-190 motor, i am using an infared temp guage.aimed at the top tank of the padiator, on the motor near the spark plug.fan has never come on.?
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shep
1st Gear
Posts: 93
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Post by shep on Nov 11, 2009 11:30:21 GMT -5
I've only rode my bike a couple of times, but I've never seen the fans come on either. I was beginning to think they were not wired properly.
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Post by ponytail on Nov 11, 2009 17:05:19 GMT -5
while i was tuning on it i let it get good and warm temp guage 12oclock temp gun said 185 at what i assume is the themostate,under the top hose at the block spark plug read 190,does this sound ok?
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Post by RE5Gary on Nov 11, 2009 17:56:07 GMT -5
I was thinking the same thing with my fan not ever going on. I thought maybe it didn't work for some reason. When Ron (shavron) stopped over, he knew how to check the fan to see if it works and it did. I forget the procedure. If Ron or anyone else who knows comes online I'm sure they will tell you.
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Post by Jess on Nov 11, 2009 22:15:00 GMT -5
The thermostat for the fan is a very high temp switch. When It is functioning properly, it will come on at the small mark near the far right of the gauge...
The fan is very simple to "hot wire" to test... The temp switch is simply that... a switch, normally open, when it reaches the appropriate temp, it closes, causing the fan to have power and run.
The only time the fan ever runs in normal operation, is above 90 degree heat in stop and go traffic.
The cooling system was designed with a twin rotor in mind. If it is functioning properly and in good condition, it is far more cooling than the bike will ever need.
Best,
Jess
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Post by re5man on Feb 28, 2010 14:29:39 GMT -5
When I first ran my RE5 the temp would rise up and the fan would constantly be on.The bike would always run hot.I checked all the cooling system,thermostat and decided as many RE5's have been standing I would back-flush the radiator.Did this and reinstalled but the bike still ran hot with the fan cutting in.I removed the rad once more,backflushed and this time GENTLY tapped the rad all over,avoiding damaging the fragile filaments between the core channels, with a piece of wood.I had just over a third of a cup of sediment come out with the water,flushed until clear.re-installed,fired up and she ran great.the fan now only cuts in when stopped in traffic .The bike now runs a lot cooler.
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Post by Jess on Feb 28, 2010 18:37:28 GMT -5
Radiators are often neglected. The white silt you find in them is calcium... This usually comes from tap water.
They should be filled only with Distilled/demineralized water and anti freeze.
Suzuki used bars stop leak from the factory. This also was a lubricant for the pump shaft bushings. It is important that it should be added when the coolant is changed.
Back flushing is also a good idea. There are aluminum safe cleaners that will flush out the radiator. I can't recommend any off the top of my head, but any local auto supply will have something.
When the Re5 cooling system is working properly, it is more than adequate to cool the bike... the fan should only come on in extreme temperatures.
Best,
Jess
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