metering pump failure?

[quawk]

After having now been able to start and run my bike up to temp for quite a few times (still up on the my lift table) I have become aware that no oil is leaving the metering tank. I have been running it with the recommended mix in a small temporary tank, as advised, until I could verify whether oil was being metered to the carb. Before trying initial start up I drained what oil was in the tank from the previous owner, removed the hose at the pump and verified the hose and outlet from the tank was clear by blowing through it. I reattached the hose, put Castrol GTX in the tank about half full and marked the oil level with a piece of tape. I opened the bleed screw and thought I did get some oil to seep out, then closed the bleed screw. Now, I'm not sure if oil did drip/seep out or not. Was wondering if failure of the metering pump happened very often? I see another member had a post about looking for a replacement pump. Is the connection at the carb actually have a check valve? If it has failed does this prevent oil from being metered to the carb? Is this one of the items that Jess sells and is this the item I believe he indicated if yours hasn't failed already, it probably will in the future? A lot of questions, I know, but would appreciate advise or suggestions on what I should be checking to determine why no oil is being metered to the carb.

[wayne]

Try your bleed screw again and make sure oil is flowing out. It's a "no doubt" thing once it starts moving, it'll be dripping all over your floor. If it's not, you'll need to check that rubber line is clear all the way to the tank and make sure no sludge has accumulated in the plastic tank clogging the nipple. Once that's confirmed clear, the only thing stopping oil going from pump to carb is a crimped line (highly unlikely), a failed carby check valve (very possible) or a failed pump (also unlikely).

Failure of the metering pump is very rare. Their design life is somewhere in the 6 figure mileage.

Also check your lines are correctly attached. The lower pump line is the one to the carby. The upper line goes to the chain oiler and is half the rate. If the chain oiler has been disconnected it's possible an owner has done it backwards by blocking the carb outlet with a blanking screw and running the chain oiler to the carb. It has been done!

Run the check shown in the manual if you really want to be sure. I think it's 6 minutes at 2,000 rpm should use 5cc +/- 0.5cc (check those numbers, that's just my memory).

The connection at the carb does have a check valve. It's designed for oil flow into the carb but not fuel to flow back down the line into the pump. If the valve's failed and they do, fuel will run down into the pump and little or no oil will go to the carby. It's easy to remove the valve. Put a bit of tubing on it and if you can, attached a syringe. You should be able to blow air through it but not suck. Jess does sell replacement check valves but as discussed, he's offline ATM. I don't as yet know if Stuart (T140V) is making them.