toni
1st Gear
Posts: 4
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Post by toni on Apr 1, 2021 2:03:11 GMT -5
First of all, I am not a native English speaker so, please, apologize me for grammar errors and misspelled words.
The point is that more than one year ago I acquired a RE5 that was languishing in a small motorcycle museum in the middle of nowhere. My idea was to turn it into life and running it occasionally. The bike was complete and it had been stored in good conditions.
Since I am not an ace spanner, a trusted mechanic went to see the bike and told me it was pretty good. The bike ran with no evident problems. He took the bike to his garage in order to restore it to regular conditions (change liquids, filters, brake fluids, etc.)
Just after that, we had the COVID-19 lockdown (very severe in Spain) so I was unable to travel to the garage. Now that COVID restrictions are less rigorous, I phoned the mechanic to told him that I would go to pick up the bike.
He prepared the bike and drove it about 20 km with no problems til noted some slippery feelings of the rear tyre. He stopped immediately and realized that there was a leak of oil + coolant (typical milky texture) somewhere behind the starter motor. He told me that coolant was mixed with oil into the engine oil sump (the transmission oil was ok). He has momentarily left the bike since had to deliver other bikes so I haven't more information.
Any idea of what can it be?
Best,
Toni
By the way, this is a great forum!
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Post by don07tncav on Apr 1, 2021 4:18:05 GMT -5
Possibly a freeze plug is loose.
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Post by wayne on Apr 1, 2021 4:30:31 GMT -5
The leak from somewhere behind the starter motor may not be a leak. The overflow drain hose for the radiator coolant comes from behind the radiator cap under the fuel tank black flap and runs down the spine of the bike and then runs down behind the gearbox and starter motor where it drains to the ground in front of the back wheel.
However, if there is a mix of oil and water this is more serious. What Don has said, a freeze plug or I think some call a welsh plug in the engine casing could be loose.
Your coolant control O rings (two on each side of the rotor housing) could also be suspect. I'll try and get some photos up for you.
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toni
1st Gear
Posts: 4
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Post by toni on Apr 1, 2021 11:50:34 GMT -5
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Post by typ110 on Apr 1, 2021 14:27:33 GMT -5
Toni,
As explained above I think you have a leak inside the engine. This could be as simple as a damaged o-ring but can also be cracked or destroyed side or centerhousings. Even a broken rotorhousing can be possible. In either case my advice would be to open up the engine before driving it any longer!
cheers,
Michel
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Post by wayne on Apr 1, 2021 18:32:25 GMT -5
Toni, Michel (TYP110) is an expert with the engine so his advice is very good. Opening up the engine sounds like what you will need to do. Picture showing the O Ring position:  Showing what don07tncav was referring to:  |
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Post by hudson on Apr 1, 2021 22:35:21 GMT -5
I am just adding my thoughts, Left side freeze plugs ( that is what we call them in the U.S. or soft plugs ) will allow coolant into the engine sump. Leaking right side plugs will allow coolant into the transmission oil. An over filled trans will push oil and coolant out of the transmission vent which is labyrinth located between the starter mounting gasket and the center case ( the one with the serial number)
and exits under the starter. Not right side plugs as you mentioned the trans oil is OK. If the press fit of the holes for the plugs is not in good condition they can be bored by any competent machinist for 1 inch plugs that are .015-.016 of an inch larger than the stock 25 mm plugs.
Brian
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toni
1st Gear
Posts: 4
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Post by toni on Apr 3, 2021 2:38:53 GMT -5
In view of your comments, my idea now is:
1) Check the core plugs (first the left ones, then the right ones). In case of being damaged, do the repair and check if it works.
2) In case not, or if the core plugs are ok. Open the engine and check O-rings, possible cracks, etc.
My point is, in Wayne's first picture, I guess that both side and corner seals are removed and, when mounted, should be placed in the rotor grooves. So, once the engine is disassembled, the old seals (if good) can be reused? Are they easy to mount? When dismantling the right engine casing, should I have some precaution not to damage some internal elements?
Many, many thanks again for your help.
Toni
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Post by wayne on Apr 4, 2021 1:09:39 GMT -5
Toni you need special tools to disassemble a rotary engine. There are templates available and you can use them to get them laser cut. Or you may consider shipping the engine to TYP110 (Michel) in Belgium. He is fully equipped and experienced to do repairs on the rotor.
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Post by wayne on Apr 4, 2021 1:16:42 GMT -5
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toni
1st Gear
Posts: 4
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Post by toni on Apr 4, 2021 8:26:35 GMT -5
Thanks for the info Wayne. The disassembling doesn't look like trivial. I will send a message to Michel. And I will keep you inform about how it ends.
Thanks a lot.
Toni
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Post by HGH 770N on Apr 4, 2021 23:33:14 GMT -5
My thoughts are.
Has the system been cleaned out?
It may have been over filled and forcing out old mixture of Barrs/ coolant/ corrosion.
Or more likely and seriously failing side plate ( Viton rings) seals.
Which over pressurises system causing coolant with oils from chamber forced out of overflow pipe as Wayne described exiting behind rear tyre.
I have rebuilt several units with failed seals and had to surface grind side plates flat again before rebuilding.
You can normally see clearly where pressure has been passing and iff its location is by one of the small oil seal rings this would create the mixture.
This may also create pressure in oil system.
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