Post by wayne on Feb 14, 2021 17:56:18 GMT -5
Thanks to members GOANDY, HUDSON and FB member JAMES SAUNDERS for their experience:
There are a few ways this can happen.
#1: Increased engine oil burn:
-I have from a Suzuki Service Manager's letter to a customer that up to 1 imperial pint per 1000 klm is considered within "normal" range. The mix of metrics was typical of Australia circa 1975 as we'd just changed over. So that's 568cc per 1000 klm or 1 imperial pint per 625 miles.
Having said that, typical sump oil consumption is considerably less.
#2: Internal oil leaks:
- The oil seal behind the trochoid oil pump may have been replaced the wrong way 'round. This is both possible and has been done by RE5 owners. It will rapidly pump out your sump.
- Failure of the Eccentric shaft (rotary speak for crankshaft) RHS main bearing seal. This will leak sump oil into the primary drive area under the clutch cover and start to fill your gearbox. Apparently this can be replaced after removing the clutch cover, clutch, primary drive sprockets on the engine main shaft and RH balance. More info to come.........
- Loosening of the Eccentric shaft end plugs. These two small plugs are in both ends of the eccentric shaft. At a glance, you may think the shaft is solid. It's not, it's hollow and these plugs are quite thin. When removing the alternator (which anyone intending to polish cases will need to do) or the right side counter weight (unlikely to need removal unless you're servicing the RHS main bearing seal) do not use a puller that has a centre pin pushing against these plugs. They are easily dislodged. If loose, they will leak sump oil which is pumped through the centre of the hollow eccentric for lube and cooling into the gearbox. If dislodged, you will pump out your sump within minutes.
You can fit a small plate over the end of the eccentric for your puller to push against but beware, excessive force can damage those eccentric shaft threads. Member JESS advises that no puller is required. A dead blow hammer will work for both and he's done it hundreds of times without damaging the shaft. Or have a look at the tool that member HUDSON has made. It pushes against a step on the outside of the eccentric shaft (see below).
Left is a normal eccentric shaft end (RHS) and right one with the plug missing. This anomaly is easily missed (Pics by James Saunders):
From member HUDSON:
Interestingly, an RE5 mechanic from the day tells me that it was standard to check gearbox oil level (presumably) before actioning warranty claims.
If you need to machine up a new plug, here are the dimensions courtesy of member HUDSON:
re5rotary.proboards.com/thread/3111/crankshaft-eccentric-shaft-plugs-hudson
There are a few ways this can happen.
#1: Increased engine oil burn:
-I have from a Suzuki Service Manager's letter to a customer that up to 1 imperial pint per 1000 klm is considered within "normal" range. The mix of metrics was typical of Australia circa 1975 as we'd just changed over. So that's 568cc per 1000 klm or 1 imperial pint per 625 miles.
Having said that, typical sump oil consumption is considerably less.
#2: Internal oil leaks:
- The oil seal behind the trochoid oil pump may have been replaced the wrong way 'round. This is both possible and has been done by RE5 owners. It will rapidly pump out your sump.
- Failure of the Eccentric shaft (rotary speak for crankshaft) RHS main bearing seal. This will leak sump oil into the primary drive area under the clutch cover and start to fill your gearbox. Apparently this can be replaced after removing the clutch cover, clutch, primary drive sprockets on the engine main shaft and RH balance. More info to come.........
- Loosening of the Eccentric shaft end plugs. These two small plugs are in both ends of the eccentric shaft. At a glance, you may think the shaft is solid. It's not, it's hollow and these plugs are quite thin. When removing the alternator (which anyone intending to polish cases will need to do) or the right side counter weight (unlikely to need removal unless you're servicing the RHS main bearing seal) do not use a puller that has a centre pin pushing against these plugs. They are easily dislodged. If loose, they will leak sump oil which is pumped through the centre of the hollow eccentric for lube and cooling into the gearbox. If dislodged, you will pump out your sump within minutes.
You can fit a small plate over the end of the eccentric for your puller to push against but beware, excessive force can damage those eccentric shaft threads. Member JESS advises that no puller is required. A dead blow hammer will work for both and he's done it hundreds of times without damaging the shaft. Or have a look at the tool that member HUDSON has made. It pushes against a step on the outside of the eccentric shaft (see below).
Left is a normal eccentric shaft end (RHS) and right one with the plug missing. This anomaly is easily missed (Pics by James Saunders):
From member HUDSON:
Interestingly, an RE5 mechanic from the day tells me that it was standard to check gearbox oil level (presumably) before actioning warranty claims.
If you need to machine up a new plug, here are the dimensions courtesy of member HUDSON:
re5rotary.proboards.com/thread/3111/crankshaft-eccentric-shaft-plugs-hudson