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Post by wayne on Jan 15, 2021 0:12:15 GMT -5
Make sure you read GOANDY's reply to this thread. It's the first post following. Just for general info and edification. The bits you may need for an engine rebuild and what they look like. I'm still missing some clear pics, will add when available.  Apex seals. RE5 top, RO80 bottom. The Apex seal spring fits into the rotor tip slot as a "U" putting tension on the small end pieces. By virtue of the angled cuts between the ends and centre, spring tension is transmitted indirectly to the long centre piece:  Apex seal springs 12149-37020:  Corner Seals 12100-37820:  Side Seals 12151-37010. See next for side seal springs:  Poor picture of the side seal springs- wavy bits in the plastic 12159-37010:  O ring 11100-37810:  Rotor side Oil seal set, 12300-37820:  Seat, Internal Gear, 12119-37030:  More to come............. |
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Post by goandy on Jan 15, 2021 2:41:21 GMT -5
Last one- rotor gear retaining plate? Not absolutely sure though as I get mixed up between Mazda and RE5 stuff!
To be honest, most of those parts aren't required for a normal rebuild. They can all be measured up and reused if in spec.
Apex seals- well there's a few sources for NOS NSU ones or remade replacements down here in Oz.
Corner seals- rarely wear out
Corner seal springs- pretty sure FD RX7 ones fit? Can kinda retension original ones if they look ok but a bit flat. These are crucial to helping with start up compression.
Side seals- again they don't seem to wear much in our bikes. If you can't find oem (pretty rare) then you can grind down Mazda 12A (I think, have to check as 12A or 13B are different thicknesses and one is too thick) ones as they are too long and too tall. Again the length is crucial for good compression.
Oil control rings- you can reprofile these on a lathe or similar, I've got a post somewhere on here about that. New o rings inside them is probably more important for keeping down oil consumption.
Eccentric shaft & rotor gas sealing rings- mine measured up fine. Most likely have to get some new ones made up if you need them, very rare to see for sale.
O rings can be bought for the smaller sizes but the coolant ones need to be made out of viton cord. Not hard and works well.
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Post by wayne on Jan 15, 2021 4:45:04 GMT -5
Thank you Andy. Exactly what I was hoping for.
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Post by wayne on Feb 27, 2021 20:46:48 GMT -5
From one of our European members who also offers an engine rebuild service, TYP110. His answer to my enquiry as to what parts are actually available in the NSU RO80 "kit":
A "Ro80 rebuild kit" does not exist, you can however buy parts to fit the RE5. Here is a summary on the parts that fit:
- Apex seals Ro80 and the springs underneath them. They are available in ferrotic (contains 3 pieces per seal) or in ceramic (contains 2 pieces per seal). When using ceramic there are a some remarks.
- Corner seals and the springs underneath them. Only available in metal.
- Side seals and the springs underneath them. Only in metal. The RX7 SA ones can be adapted to fit.
Oil control rings do not fit due to the difference in the rotor. The o-rings inside should be changed. These control rings are often very hard to dismount and are nowhere to be found. These are the achilles heel of the engine. However worn ones can be ground to make them workable.
All the other metal seals (crankshaft etc) can be reused after inspection. Again, if you break one, you will have to find another.....
Additionally there are the o-rings to seal the housing and the oil seals on the crankshaft left and right. The small ones can be bought and the big ones made of viton cord. Oils seals can be bought.
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Post by rsalvarez on Dec 23, 2021 20:00:03 GMT -5
I found rust on the spark plug,more dust than big red oxide, engine is frozen, i am looking for more info, thank's
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Post by wayne on Dec 23, 2021 21:38:22 GMT -5
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Post by rsalvarez on Dec 28, 2021 18:54:30 GMT -5
Hi, were did you find the engine parts,i am rebuilding mine
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Post by rsalvarez on Dec 28, 2021 19:55:27 GMT -5
Was full of rust on the exhaust chamber, i remove the engine for clean and found the cooling passages too corroded ,will weld them, apex seals are stuck in the rotor,surfaces looks fine, will clean the rotor in degreaser,but not dure how will affect the inside rotor seals. |
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Post by wayne on Dec 28, 2021 19:58:34 GMT -5
Try putting the rotor with seized apex and side seals into a bucket full of diesel. It has excellent penetration of seize components.
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Post by wayne on Dec 29, 2021 0:34:09 GMT -5
Hi, were did you find the engine parts,i am rebuilding mine I was lucky enough to find someone with more than one set and bought them. There are alternatives. Send an email to this member (TYP110). He is in Europe but will be able to supply you with some engine parts: Michel michel.stoelen@telenet.be |
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Post by wayne on Dec 29, 2021 0:38:09 GMT -5
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Post by wayne on Dec 29, 2021 0:39:14 GMT -5
Last one- rotor gear retaining plate? Not absolutely sure though as I get mixed up between Mazda and RE5 stuff! To be honest, most of those parts aren't required for a normal rebuild. They can all be measured up and reused if in spec. Apex seals- well there's a few sources for NOS NSU ones or remade replacements down here in Oz. Corner seals- rarely wear out Corner seal springs- pretty sure FD RX7 ones fit? Can kinda retension original ones if they look ok but a bit flat. These are crucial to helping with start up compression. Side seals- again they don't seem to wear much in our bikes. If you can't find oem (pretty rare) then you can grind down Mazda 12A (I think, have to check as 12A or 13B are different thicknesses and one is too thick) ones as they are too long and too tall. Again the length is crucial for good compression. Oil control rings- you can reprofile these on a lathe or similar, I've got a post somewhere on here about that. New o rings inside them is probably more important for keeping down oil consumption. Eccentric shaft & rotor gas sealing rings- mine measured up fine. Most likely have to get some new ones made up if you need them, very rare to see for sale. O rings can be bought for the smaller sizes but the coolant ones need to be made out of viton cord. Not hard and works well. RSALVAREZ read the above from GOANDY |
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Post by rsalvarez on Dec 29, 2021 0:45:16 GMT -5
Thank you i has been reading, now i am looking for the spark plug publication , thank you again ( cases was welded and will work ) found a gasket set fron an ebay seller and the case seal o rings will be replaced with new from a viton strip of same diameter, still unable to download the manuals ( google drive invitation requiered )
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Post by wayne on Dec 29, 2021 4:27:45 GMT -5
Send me your address. Send to email appleblue@aapt.net.au
I'll send all the manuals to you on a flash drive. I'm in Australia so will take a couple of weeks to get to you but better than nothing.
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