shep
1st Gear
Posts: 93
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Post by shep on Aug 16, 2009 11:50:56 GMT -5
I'm trying to diagnose an issue with my wiring that was done by the previous owner. The wires to the rectifier are getting really hot after a couple minutes of running. The previous owner spliced in the wires going to it, so I don't have a harness clip. There are three yellow wires and a red coming from the harness, then the rectifier has two yellow, a white, and a red wire. My question is, do the yellow wires need to be connected in a certain order from the alternator? If they're hooked up wrong would it cause the overheating issue. Or is it just that the rectifier has gone bad? Also, if I need to replace it, do any other models work, or is it specific to the re5?
Thanks for any help!
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Post by Crusader on Aug 20, 2009 7:55:34 GMT -5
Hey mate,
I dont know if this is similar or not but i had fuse go red hot then blow. Cause was a bad rectifier. Replaced it with the modern replacement and worked like a charm after that.
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shep
1st Gear
Posts: 93
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Post by shep on Aug 20, 2009 9:29:55 GMT -5
Hey mate, I dont know if this is similar or not but i had fuse go red hot then blow. Cause was a bad rectifier. Replaced it with the modern replacement and worked like a charm after that. What do you mean "modern replacement"? Is there an upgraded one I should use, or just stick with stock? I talked with the guy here oregonmotorcycleparts.com/, and he makes one for the gt750. Should be the same though.
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shep
1st Gear
Posts: 93
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Post by shep on Aug 25, 2009 10:28:35 GMT -5
So I ordered a new rectifier and repair harness, but that didn't resolve my issues. After some help diagnosing from the owner of Oregon Motorcycle Parts, I found that I'm only seeing 10v at the OW wire going to the regulator instead of 12v. So its basically causing it to overcharge everything. He suggested that it might be a bad ignition switch, but I haven't taken the time to track that down yet. Any other ideas?
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Post by suzsmokeyallan on Aug 27, 2009 12:04:53 GMT -5
You need to check all the connections on the harness and make sure they are clean and the crimps are good with no frayed wires. The plastic ones in the headlight are suspect to crumbling so if you need new ones vintage connections have the same type socket and you can carefully push out the little terminals and fit the new sockets. The ignition switch may have internal corrosion issues so you'll need to flush it out and see if it makes a difference, generally the rule is if it looks suspect on a connector it wont hurt to clean it. Dont forget to clean wire grounds as well.
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shep
1st Gear
Posts: 93
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Post by shep on Aug 28, 2009 15:55:35 GMT -5
I pulled off the headlight the other night, and wow there were multiple problems I found. One connector was toast, others had some strange splicing going on. I'm thinking I might just run all new wiring and connectors if fixing the one connector doesn't resolve my issues. There was also a connector dangling under the handle bars. I have no idea what it went to, but all electrical seems to work. I think something else was just spliced in its place.
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shep
1st Gear
Posts: 93
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Post by shep on Aug 28, 2009 15:57:03 GMT -5
I replaced the main battery/engine ground. Where are the other grounding points located. I just have the electrical schematic to look at, so it doesn't really show where they terminate.
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