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Post by aerologic on Mar 23, 2009 18:06:25 GMT -5
I have my RE-5 project on the road now. It idles nice. Seems to accelerate OK off of the line. I'm used to a Honda CBX and I have not seen, let alone ridden, another RE-5. It accelerates fairly nicely through the first couple of gears. Then not much. In third or fourth gear I can get maybe 40 MPH. Still pretty smooth but a little lurching crops up.
What should I do next? Check all of the adjustments on the carb? Have the carb rebuilt by Sam? I don't really know the history of the bike and I don't know how long it sat. It's in OK to good condition I would guess. I did put the jungle juice in the carb when I first starting working on the bike late last fall.
I've been reading the Service Manual on the carb. I guess I'm a little intimidated but I'm not a bad wrench. I'm just looking for advice on what to do and in what order. The key being it just looses steam at 4000 RPM or so. In Neutral I can't rev it past 4000 RPM or maybe a little more. I don't like reving it in neutral.
Thanks!
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Post by Jess on Mar 23, 2009 21:10:58 GMT -5
compression test...
Any tester will do as long as it is a screw in type.
Need to know max reading you get. Battery should be fully charged, throttle cranked all the way open.
Let us know...
Best,
Jess
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Post by aerologic on Mar 24, 2009 7:33:50 GMT -5
Ah! Good idea. Off to Harbor Freight to get one if I can get out today.
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Post by aerologic on Mar 24, 2009 10:47:24 GMT -5
Frack! I bought a Harbor Freight compression tester and the connectors (there are 3) are all too small for the Re-5. I'm not sure if metric would have bitten me or not.
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Post by aerologic on Mar 24, 2009 16:37:45 GMT -5
115 PSI cold. I talked to Sam this morning about something else and he said 118 to 125 PSI. I guess I'm not too bad??
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Post by Jess on Mar 24, 2009 18:36:36 GMT -5
115 is great... perfectly acceptable.
What are your points set at? As well as timing?
Best,
Jess
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Post by aerologic on Mar 28, 2009 9:49:34 GMT -5
Points look good and timing looks good per the service manual.
I'm looking at page 152 of the service manual, Throttle cable adjustment. Of course I don't have the Suzuki tool that is mentioned but I'm eyeballing the motion of the "shaft" inside the hole where I removed the small rubber cap. With full throttle the shaft is not turning much, maybe 30 degrees, far short of the 135 degrees or so of travel from position 1 to position 5 as seen in Fig 16-21. I've adjusted the pull side cable but don't see a lot of difference. By the way the throttle seems to "turn" a reasonable amount, at least as compared to other motorcycles so I don't think anything is binding, I think... I can make some tool that approximates the Suzuki tool for measuring the "angle".
What should I do? Take off the carb to see what is going on in there? Is the carb easy to get off? Lots of cables, etc. The service manual is not too clear on this. Does the radiator need to come off to get the carb off?
Thanks!
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Post by Jess on Mar 30, 2009 15:56:48 GMT -5
Dave,
If it were me... I would load the bike up and take it to Sam to let him dial it in.
You are fortunate that you live in OH, much closer than most.
I am sure that folks are happy to help on the board... but there are so many different variables.
You next step, (actually, I thought you already had done it) would be to get into the carb and rebuild it.
I always delete the pull side of the cables as they are extranious and just serve to make it harder to set up.
Good luck...
Best,
Jess
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Post by Jess on Mar 30, 2009 15:58:18 GMT -5
P.S. Radiator does not need to come off to get the carb out...  Best, Jess |
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Post by aerologic on Apr 2, 2009 12:23:55 GMT -5
I'll take it to Sam if it comes to that. I don't have a trailer, trailer hitch, or pickup truck but I guess I could figure out something. He's a good 4 hour drive. I'll keep working on it and if I crash and burn then I'll head north. We are on opposite ends of the state.
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Post by aerologic on Apr 5, 2009 18:48:10 GMT -5
Actually when I tested my compression, which was 115 psi, I did not hold the throttle open. Since I returned the borrowed compression tester I can't retest. I'm curious what the difference would be? A few more psi?
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Post by aerologic on Apr 6, 2009 17:37:16 GMT -5
Jess,
You said:
"I always delete the pull side of the cables as they are extranious and just serve to make it harder to set up."
Can you be more specific as to what you in regards to the cables? Which cables? How many cables? You say you delete the "pull" side cables. Did you mean pull? I know there are the two cables going into the carb; pull and return, Fig 16-20. You can't push a noodle, if ya know what I mean.
Thanks!
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Post by Jess on Apr 7, 2009 8:24:19 GMT -5
Dave,
Sorry... I meant push cables. There are two cables. One splits to three, the other splits to two, making a total of five cables.
I delete the push side (splits to two). Makes the cable total three and much easier to set up. One to carb, one to port valve, one to metering pump.
Hope that helps...
Best,
Jess
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Post by aerologic on Apr 7, 2009 8:27:55 GMT -5
Not THAT makes sense! Thanks!
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Post by aerologic on Apr 7, 2009 8:33:50 GMT -5
I have to leave for the day but while I'm thinking about it, is it obvious how to remove the two "push" cables? On the carb side it's obvious. It's already off. How about the other end? Same with port valve.
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