Master cylinder rebuilding

[goandy]

I've rekitted my master cylinder with the Suzuki kit, bought from a dealership.

I was trolling through some old posts and someone mentioned that the rebuild kit is slightly different from the original setup and that you have to leave a washer out (designed to sit between piston and retaining circlip) otherwise the piston will not clear the relief hole.

I installed the kit with the washer and it appears to work ok- although haven't ridden it yet. Can someone confirm if I have to take that washer out? (and take mine apart again ) Wayne, I just found the post (below) and it's your question...

re5rotary.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=restores&action=display&thread=722

[wayne]

Andy, when I disassembled my M/C about two years ago to rebuild it, I noticed that the kit in it that I'd done several years before was a new kit and that I'd used the washer. It worked fine.

When I rebuilt it in 2010, I left the washer out. Works fine as well.

Seems that you can do it either way but the advice from Roy in that post that you quote was pretty definitive re leaving it out. I've had the M/C sans washer operating for nearly 9,000 klm now, no leaks, brakes work as well as I'd expect.

[goandy]

Great, thanks Wayne. I really couldn't be bothered taking it apart again...rebleeding brakes....etc. More time to concentrate on more important things like rewiring the previous owner's interpretation of the rectifier/regulator wiring (probably a contributing factor to my rectifier frying).

Oh and I like the "brakes work as well as I'd expect" comment!

[wayne]

Hmmm, yes, they were words carefully chosen.

I rode Jess's and it had very good brakes but he had braided lines. They may help but I think pad material is a critical factor. Crap pads, braided lines won't help much. I lucked it with my GS and despite a single disc, it'll outbrake both my GT and my RE.