Clean carby = no hesitation

[wayne]

This is referred to in another post but I thought a thread on it's own might be of some help.

My A model was a very frustrating bike because it was fitted with what Jess believed was an NOS carby. I’ve had it apart and I confirm it is an NOS carby. Glacial white fuel and air filters, couldn’t be anything but new or had very little fuel through it.

But it hesitated and after chasing it for months I gave up and fitted a larger PMJ (102.5). Very frustrating, NOS plus two cleanings.

Anyway, I'm always thinking about the whole carby thing and just thought that I'd look at the physical split between the limiter plate on the secondary throat and the actuation of the port valve. To my surprise, the A model was way out. Not even close (something like 6 turns on the adjuster). I’d buggered up and I later realised how. Never mind. Once I set that correctly, hesitation gone WITH A STANDARD 90 jet back in. A problem I’ve chased for 2 months fixed in 10 minutes.

I test rode it locally on the first day and then went out the next day for a hundred klm ride which had a good amount of city traffic in it as well.

What Jess at Rotary Recycle has been telling me for years:

Clean carby (+ correct cabling) = no hesitation.

[gerryggg]

Congratulationa! Glad you finally got it sorted out. Now, if I could just get a carb. Tried to buy the one that rotorman007 had on ebay, but someone outbid me. I upped my max price twice, but obviously someone else wanted it more as they exceeded my max by $5. It was probably worth it, but my budget just couldn't take any more right now. i'll just have to bide my time and keep looking. Maybe I'll give RR a call and find out what his going price is for a working carb and start saving my pennies.

[wayne]

Thanks gerryggg. I was thinking of bidding on the carb but expected it to go over $500. Surprised it didn't. I'm wondering who got the NOS carby recently for $1500 and how does it run.

Of course "clean the carby" in this context means Ultrasound.

The cabling error I made was with the angle gauge and forgetting what I'd set the AP to on the bench. When I used the gauge on the bike I aligned the gauge with the AP because it's a "hard" setting" from the bench but calibrated the gauge to 35 forgetting that I'd actually done bulletin nine 28 on the bench. This meant the PV was opening way too early.

It's much easier to set the AP on the bench with the gauge and simply align the PV visually with the limiter plate on the bike.

On the bike I'm going to set the port valve to open exactly at the point the limiter plate starts to move and use that as a foundation. Then on the road if there is any fine tuning, I know that all I have to do is to wind the PV cable adjuster outwards (earlier opening) because it is going to be very close at this stage.

[Jess]

Wayne...

Thanks for the compliment?

What Jess at Rotary Recycle has been telling me for years:
Clean carby (+ correct cabling) = no hesitation.


Sorry it took me all these years to get you to believe me...

Best,

[wayne]

always believed you........it's just getting the darn things clean.

I have two others that still don't work (one of which was ultrasounded). But the NOS thing proves that a spotless carby will work. I can only assume (and I do) that the two others are still not clean enough.

But hey, I'm coming round !

Cheers