Post by Tony on Apr 10, 2012 21:40:45 GMT -5
Hi all,
I am picking up a thread from over a year ago on mica-peak when we were discussing how to stop the clutch rumbling which my bike had started to do. To stop it all I needed to do was put tension on the clutch leaver. Apparently when this is done, the clutch push rod pushes the whole assembly outwards slightly, thus preventing end play movement (blatantly plagiarized from a post from Kim in oz).
Further, Kim said the way to fix this is to shorten the inner bush a small amount and he gave a very detailed explanation how to do this based on an old Clymer publications for Suzuki Twins.
To be honest I wasn't sure about this. I knew that my clutch was nearing the end of its adjustment so I lived with the rumble and have just replaced the friction plates and springs thinking that this may well fix the rumble - it didn't!
As an aside the old friction plates where well within spec, but the springs were very knackered.
So why wasn't I sure about Kim's fix? Well to me it seems strange to fix a symptom of a wearing gearbox by removing more metal seems strange. here is his full explanation. What do people think? (Sorry Kim for doubting you, but I don't get it)
[i]"It is in a Clymer publication.
Suzuki
Service-Repair Handbook covering 125-500cc twins. 1964-1972.
I know this is older than the RE5 but the theory will be the same.
It is contained within the engine/transmission and clutch section.
They are referring to it as "axial play" and should be between .002 and .008 inch for all models.(0.05-0.02mm) If greater than 0.01 inch(0.25mm),then the inner spacer needs to be shortened the required amount by rubbing one end on an oil stone. A lathe would be better of course.
You can try to move the clutch hub in an out by hand and check what end or axial play is there.
It says,with the clutch assembled to use a dial guage set against the rim of theouter basket,that is,the dial guage pointer resting against the thin edge of one of the basket fingers and try to move the assembly in and out and measure the movement. I was thinking that measurement may able to be made using feeler guages. With the outer basket and inner hub installed and nut tightened and no clutch plates installed, you may be able to get a feeler guage between the outer washer and inner hub face.
On the RE5, look at the parts book and clutch section and see part numbers 2) 09180-26002 Spacer 26x32x42.
3) 09160-26005 Washer 26x56.5. 2 of these.
Hopefully this will help you see what I am trying to get across.[/i]
Hope everyone is with me so far.
In trying to figure this out, I got to thinking about the screw adjuster on the end of the push rod. Simply by tightening this up a little, I stop the rumble (it just pre-loads the push rod as discussed above). Is this ok to do? What do people think?
cheers
Tony
I am picking up a thread from over a year ago on mica-peak when we were discussing how to stop the clutch rumbling which my bike had started to do. To stop it all I needed to do was put tension on the clutch leaver. Apparently when this is done, the clutch push rod pushes the whole assembly outwards slightly, thus preventing end play movement (blatantly plagiarized from a post from Kim in oz).
Further, Kim said the way to fix this is to shorten the inner bush a small amount and he gave a very detailed explanation how to do this based on an old Clymer publications for Suzuki Twins.
To be honest I wasn't sure about this. I knew that my clutch was nearing the end of its adjustment so I lived with the rumble and have just replaced the friction plates and springs thinking that this may well fix the rumble - it didn't!
As an aside the old friction plates where well within spec, but the springs were very knackered.
So why wasn't I sure about Kim's fix? Well to me it seems strange to fix a symptom of a wearing gearbox by removing more metal seems strange. here is his full explanation. What do people think? (Sorry Kim for doubting you, but I don't get it)
[i]"It is in a Clymer publication.
Suzuki
Service-Repair Handbook covering 125-500cc twins. 1964-1972.
I know this is older than the RE5 but the theory will be the same.
It is contained within the engine/transmission and clutch section.
They are referring to it as "axial play" and should be between .002 and .008 inch for all models.(0.05-0.02mm) If greater than 0.01 inch(0.25mm),then the inner spacer needs to be shortened the required amount by rubbing one end on an oil stone. A lathe would be better of course.
You can try to move the clutch hub in an out by hand and check what end or axial play is there.
It says,with the clutch assembled to use a dial guage set against the rim of theouter basket,that is,the dial guage pointer resting against the thin edge of one of the basket fingers and try to move the assembly in and out and measure the movement. I was thinking that measurement may able to be made using feeler guages. With the outer basket and inner hub installed and nut tightened and no clutch plates installed, you may be able to get a feeler guage between the outer washer and inner hub face.
On the RE5, look at the parts book and clutch section and see part numbers 2) 09180-26002 Spacer 26x32x42.
3) 09160-26005 Washer 26x56.5. 2 of these.
Hopefully this will help you see what I am trying to get across.[/i]
Hope everyone is with me so far.
In trying to figure this out, I got to thinking about the screw adjuster on the end of the push rod. Simply by tightening this up a little, I stop the rumble (it just pre-loads the push rod as discussed above). Is this ok to do? What do people think?
cheers
Tony
