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Post by redbug2 on Feb 7, 2012 13:55:16 GMT -5
Hello,
What methods are used to polish the aluminum fork ends? The pictures within the original advertisements seem to have a duller finish? Or, should I polish them bright just like the casings?
Thanks,
Redbug2
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Post by mike500 on Feb 7, 2012 14:27:47 GMT -5
how far you polish is up to personnal preferance some people like a very high state of polish some people dont
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Post by tokyojoe on Feb 7, 2012 17:37:03 GMT -5
When restoring my GT750 i tried to replicate the original factory finish on my fork legs. From my observations the original finish looks (to me) as if it brushed, as opposed to polished, with a coat of lacquer applied to offer some protection to the alloy. I must admit that I was rather disappointed with my attempt to match the factory finish. My best effort was lightly dressing the surface with a brass haired rotary wire brush. Please note this was not a `brassed` steel wire brush but a soft bristle brush brush. In the end I settled for a buffed/polished finish, I did not go crazy and polish them to within an inch of their lives, but settled on a medium shine. This was all several years ago and the legs still look pretty good today. I have used the same technique on my RE5M forks. I think its all down to personal preference.
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Post by jm0406 on Feb 7, 2012 18:34:47 GMT -5
When polishing on a "offhand" polishing lathe, you would use a sisal wheel with compound to cut out the large scratches before buffing to a luster finish. I have sometimes stopped at this sisal finish with the scratch pattern going around the tube leaving a "satin" finish similar to the stock finish. A clear powder coat over this dulls the finish 20% more and protects from corrosion, but not from stone chipping (shatters the coating/shows more) if you ride a lot.
Jeff
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Post by wayne on Feb 7, 2012 22:59:01 GMT -5
I mentioned in an earlier post seeing a CB750 sand cast restoration in progress. When I saw the forks, I thought that they were NOS. The finish was very close to factory.
The bloke uses wet and dry sandpaper after removing the original lacquer. He uses nothing else and just keeps going to finer grades until he gets the original, somewhat dulled and brushed look. Then he clear coats.
Wayne
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Post by gpdesign on Feb 9, 2012 12:35:45 GMT -5
I've had good results using different grits of scotchbrite. Once down to the white version you can stop when the polish/brushed effect matches what your looking for.
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