|
|
Post by redbug2 on Jan 17, 2012 10:04:09 GMT -5
Hello,
Trying to polish out my casings and rims, a long process with steel wool. I'm finding that most of my effort is spent rubbing off the old varnish coating. Is there a solvent that will remove the varnish without oxidizing the aluminum?
Thanks,
Redbug2
|
|
|
|
Post by steveuk on Jan 17, 2012 10:29:30 GMT -5
i use nitromors paint remover or any paint stripper, it only takes a few mins then wipe off with soapy water, wear gloves !.
steve
|
|
|
|
Post by raychappo on Jan 17, 2012 13:30:38 GMT -5
Do any owners re-lacquer the casings after polishing or just leave them lacquer free and polish them from time to time.
If lacquer is used, what type do people find is the best?
|
|
|
|
Post by HGH 770N on Jan 17, 2012 16:10:17 GMT -5
I personaly think that the re- lacquering of old pollished alloy would not last long as the old alloy would have different levels of contaminents imbeded in it not visible that would cause the lacquer not stick and would soon show signs of peeling or snaking,
My thoughts only.I pollish but not to mirror finnish.
Rog
|
|
|
|
Post by wayne on Jan 17, 2012 17:23:36 GMT -5
I've said it elsewhere on this forum but I'll repeat. If you are doing a museum display, relacquer. If you want to ride it, don't bother.
Stone chips etc will mark the lacquer and corrosion will start worming away under the finish and you'll be back to square one. I know, I'm watching this happen on another restoration that tried very hard to replicate "showroom" finish vs the "restored" look (ie a subdued finish). It's cases are lacquered.
A good polish is far superior to the original factory job and my casings look very good even after 10 years. They only get polished once every 6 months (if that) or if the bike is ridden in heavy rain.
Wayne
|
|
