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Post by templeton on Jun 11, 2016 9:42:27 GMT -5
I'm just in the process of getting my 1st re5 on the road right now. The bike sat for 20 something years before my buying it. I have it running and driving now but it doesn't want to rev past ~4000rpm or respond to more than ~1/3 throttle. So far I've cleaned the carb jets in an ultrasonic, followed by cleaning the carb body with carb cleaner and high pressure air. I partially got the cables set, but did that didn't seem to make any difference. Any ideas on what would cause this?
Running 100:1 2 cycle premix as I haven't verified that the omp system is working yet.
Inline fuel filter from the tank to carb.
Full airbox and new filter.
Thanks in advance for any help!
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Post by raychappo on Jun 11, 2016 12:18:02 GMT -5
Is the port valve opening correctly? If it not that would explain why it refuses to rev
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ski
1st Gear
"If it ain't broke, you're not trying."
Posts: 53
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Post by ski on Jun 11, 2016 12:44:29 GMT -5
I would double check your float setting to make sure it's not too low. If that's not it, one of the secondary/main passages in the carb may be partially obstructed. The passages are very small and notorious for plugging up. I've had to soak carbs 2 or 3 times to get them clean.
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Post by wayne on Jun 12, 2016 3:13:43 GMT -5
Consider all as advised above. Also wondering if your your secondary throat is opening. If the arm was inadvertently not reconnected on reassembly or the diaphragm in the bell housing is damaged or the vacuum tubes are plugged in the wrong way it would prevent the secondary from opening on cue. That would certainly limit how hard it was going to rev.
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Post by templeton on Jun 12, 2016 8:31:30 GMT -5
I'll double check the port valve opening and secondary. I know that the arm and vacuum line to secondary throttle are properly connected, but it is possible that the diaphragm is damaged.
If none of this stuff checks out ill ultrasonic the carb as a whole, i have a access to a nice industrial one.
thanks guys!
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Post by raychappo on Jun 12, 2016 9:27:26 GMT -5
The only way to really ultrasonic the carb is to completely dismantle it, including removing every jet and screw. Good luck, it's a pretty massive undertaking on an RE5 carb ?
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Post by templeton on Jun 12, 2016 11:53:36 GMT -5
Ive already disassembled the carb and run the internals through the ultrasonic, it was incredible how much came out of the components. I didnt however ultrasonic the body itself, im thinking it could still be clogged up as i only cleaned it with carb cleaner and air
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Post by Jess on Jun 12, 2016 11:58:18 GMT -5
The only way to properly clean an Re5 carburetor is to disassemble it, and place everything, including the body, in an ultrasonic cleaner.
97% of all running issues are carburetor related.
Just my 2 cents.
Best
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Post by templeton on Jun 12, 2016 18:05:19 GMT -5
I'll give that shot then, certainly can't hurt anything and it will knock that off of the list.
Going to be about a week before I can touch the bike though, wrapping up some summer college courses this week. (which is very unfortunate as it's bike-week in Laconia, only 40 minutes from me)
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Post by templeton on Jun 12, 2016 18:23:21 GMT -5
On a separate note the wires to my voltage rectifier are getting very hot right when i start the bike,(6 wire connector under the seat, 3 yellow wires, 1 red wire)and then settle to just warm once it's run about a minute or less. it did as some point get hot enough to melt the spade connectors into the plug somewhat, I'll be resoldering in a new connector shortly. My battery was a little run down from trying to get it started after flooding the other day, could that have been the cause? With the bike running at idle each yellow wire is reading a little over 6 volts and voltage across the battery terminals is ~14V.
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Post by wayne on Jun 12, 2016 18:32:05 GMT -5
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Post by timpa136 on Jun 13, 2016 10:02:36 GMT -5
I'm just in the process of getting my 1st re5 on the road right now. The bike sat for 20 something years before my buying it. Running 100:1 2 cycle premix as I haven't verified that the omp system is working yet. Thanks in advance for any help! Another spot to check from past experience is the core plug at the lower carburetor mounting nut. Humor me and just say you didn't literally mean 2-cycle oil
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Post by templeton on Jun 13, 2016 14:15:00 GMT -5
Good news! I put a little over 30 miles on her today, whatever was holding the bike back seems to have fixed itself! I still am getting a bit of hesitation partway through the rpm range/ throttle, from the sounds of it i should be able to clear it up by adjusting the port valve cable as I hadn't gotten that far yet. I put the battery on the charger last night and when I fired the bike up today I didn't notice the wires heating up past slightly warm when starting, idling or even after today's ride. The bike is an absolute joy to ride! definitely a different world than the full fairing bikes I'm used to! I literally meant 2-cycle oil! Full synthetic even! I've picked up that re5 owners seem quite partial to Castrol 20w-50 as recommended by Suzuki, which is what I have in the OMP tank and should the OMP prove to be functioning I'll call it quits with the gas tank premix and let the factory system do its job. I can tell you by experience with my rx7's that 2 cycle oil simply burns cleaner than 4 cycle oil by design.
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Post by timpa136 on Jun 13, 2016 17:11:37 GMT -5
Good to hear. Laconia Motorcycle Week Sounds like a great time.
Timpa136
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Post by Jess on Jun 13, 2016 18:47:13 GMT -5
Just for reference...
The factory rectifier is crap. If it has not failed yet... It will.
I had some made a few years ago. They were much better than the factory item, but we're not a good seller.
I have seen several bikes over the years combust, due to a rectifier failure.
Just my 2 cents.
Best
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