Well I use raw Kangaroo oil. If that's not available then I sometimes use Drop Bear oil but the bike gets a bit feisty and wants to climb the nearest Gum tree and wait for an unsuspecting postie bike to attack.
There you guys go, taking an issue as serious as this and making light of it. Readers of this post will not know what to think. I am not sure I know what to think anymore. BUT, I have used Castrol all of my motoring life and everything that did not break for other reasons has come through with flying colors. (whatever that means). You can drop all the bears you want, squeeze poor little kangaroos dry, But I will stay loyal to Suzuki and Castrol. (I think Wayne is a fictional character on this site made up by some teenage girl.)
My last word on this ..When a customer of mine picks his rebuild bike up it comes with a list of how to look after the bike leaves the workshop ...they are not RE5 experts... Often just another bike to park up with other bikes in there collection ...one customer has 60 other bikes ..safe to say it wont get much use so all of my original thread is on this list and more ...I have to cover myself so safety comes first ..Would not like it to come back ruined due to it standing for months then used and the oil pump has failed or the check valve is stuck ....Nothing against castrol oil just that not many stock it here in the UK ...So in my view if you are using premix long term then two stroke is best ....
RE5M,,XT660,XS500s, Triumph Tiger 900, HD 883, Velo valiant"s
Even though I'm new to this forum as I have just bought an RE5 I can shed some light on the 2 stroke vs Castrol dilemma. Castrl racing oil (I think they call it classic or something equally urbane) is Castor bean based. It has an odd smell, and a tendency to lacquer up in the fuel tank. I've used in my British bikes (48 TR5, 55 Comet, 54, Velocette MSS, and 32 KSS) adding about 70 ml to the tankful telling myself it's upper cylinder lubricant. It probably is but I just like the smell. 2 stroke oil, provided it isn't the horror mixtures containing graphite or other additives, is simply a light weight petroleum product that mixes well with any petrol, ethanol blends included, and is a fairly benign way to dissipate heat. This is fine for OTTO cycle engines, which, clearly, the Wankel is not but I surmise the function of the oil is the same: lubricate the upper cylinder i.e. the rotor tips. It shouldn't make any difference what oil is used as long as it is not in sufficient quantities that it blocks the carburetor jets. I'd go with 2 stroke oil as it's not such a pregnant dog to clean out of the tank after the winter. Zaphod
What do you think of the temperature issue re 2 stroke oil ? The temps in a wankel are significantly higher, two stroke oil is, presumably, designed to run in a two stroke environment. Ash/Carbon/Breakdown or loss of performance when outside of their designed operating environments ?
The bottom line for me is that we know that Castrol works and we don't know if two stroke oils are okay until someone runs an engine for significant lengths of time and compares them. Suzuki was cautious re the engine and the bike's success and I don't think Castrol could have paid them enough money to endorse their product unless the factory had very good reason to believe in its suitability.
However, I'm interested in knowledgeable opinions.
Perhaps those few of us that went to Suzuki Rotary RE5 Service school should have a say. But this first...
What do you think of the temperature issue re 2 stroke oil ? The temps in a wankel are significantly higher, two stroke oil is, presumably, designed to run in a two stroke environment. Ash/Carbon/Breakdown or loss of performance when outside of their designed operating environments
I was concerned using an outboard boat certified oil in my TM400 just for that reason. A water cooled boat won't hit the temperatures an air cooled dirt bike may reach.
Last Edit: Apr 27, 2016 22:59:37 GMT -5 by timpa136
Combustion temperatures are going to be similar in all engines, and the oil should be light enough to burn off leaving little residue after performing it's primary function of dissipating heat. When I was racing, and using Castrol, a strip down after each race was mandatory to de gunk the internals, especially valves. I'm new to Wankels but, having read a couple of technocal bulletins, it seems they are designed to burn oil as part of the rotor cooling and I would think you' d want a lubricant that would leave very little or no trace of itself. If Suzuki recommend Catrol it probably is just the brand and they are not talking about the old castor bean blend but a conventional grade petroleum based oil. What did Mazda and NSU recommend? Cheers, Zaphod
Mazda just recommended to not use synthetic. But that recommendation came from before there were ashless or very low ash synthetics available. For my turbo Mazda rotaries I always run synthetic because it withstands the heat better.
When I add pre-mix in the tank of any rotary I always use 2-stroke as it was designed specifically for mixing with gas and staying mixed. In my RE5 oil injection tank I use Castrol because staying mixed for weeks or months at a time isn't as important.
Suzuki specifies Castrol to use, but in the last 40 years I would bet my life that Castrol has gone through enough reformulations that the product today resembles 1275 Castrol about as well as todays Pennzoil resembles 1975 Castrol. I still use Castrol, but take the 40 year old Suzuki recommendation with a grain of salt.