No power!

[ozriley]

Hi Guys,
I had a fun time while on a classic bike group ride today.

At 100km/h I had the power (Electrics) just cut out, rolled to a stop on the side of the road, and after a check of anything obvious ended up sending bike home on a tow truck.

So once home I have found when you turn the ignition on using the key there is no electrical power at all, no power to the dash, lights etc.
To me it looks like somthing has broken the circut.

I have checked the battery which seems to be ok (less than 12 months old & I use a trickle charger when not in use), checked the main fuse off the battery which is ok also.
And no the kill switch is not on!

Any idea on what I should check next?
Anyone else had this happen?

Cheers
Chris

[wayne]

Yes, I've had this happen on a ride as well. It turned out to be the ignition switch itself in my case. I had evidence of lightly fried wiring (those red wires near the battery and one of the connectors there). I used to think it was just all the parallel battery starts that I'd needed during the years of storage. However I used to notice those wires were always warm to hot when just riding the bike.

Turns out it was a faulty ignition switch assembly and it was getting so hot it was melting the solder under the ignition until the wire dropped off. Interestingly, when I replaced it, not only has it never happened again (I'm talking 15 odd years), I no longer have the overheating wires under the seat anymore.

I've heard 1 other person mention this faulty ignition switch issue. Have a look at the wiring directly under the ignition. Slide the rubber shielding off and check it out. You might have a problem there.

[ozriley]

Thanks Wayne, I will check it out.

[timpa136]

Excellent advice from Wayne. I also have had an ignition switch go out. I have also seen another heated red terminal at the green ignition switch connector. I have seen a heated red terminal at the big flat pass thru connector right at the reservoir tank.
You said all power so it is not the kill switch which mine failed at OH! Dark Thirty one morning so I dug into the kill switch harness in the middle of the handlebars and wired around it there. Carefully clean and check the grounds and the ignition switch connector in the headlamp housing PIC here.


and here

[ozriley]

Great photos, thanks timpa136, this is a great starting point.

The wires around the main fuse do seem a little fried, I have ordered a replacement Fuse wire/assembly.
I will see if I can pick up a new ignition switch assembly, and start from there.

I appreciate the help from both you and Wayne.

Cheers
Chris

[ozriley]

Is this what I am looking for Wayne?
www.ebay.com.au/itm/New-Main-Ignition-Key-Switch-RE5-GT750-T350-T500-GT185-T250-Suzuki-nos-/201413504357?hash=item2ee52e2d65:g:pw4AAOSwDN1USEgc

[wayne]

First of all, see if you can confirm that it is the ignition. If you think it is and you don't have any local help, I MAY have an A model ignition I could post out to you to try. It'll at least confirm if that's your problem and then you can send it back (A model is not quite right for your M anyway).

As you have an M model, that ebay listing wouldn't be right. The M model ignition has the little tab that moves as you turn the ignition switch and releases the flip hood. I'm pretty sure it's an integral part of the ignition switch cylinder.

Correct part number for the M is 37110-37014

I'm not sure you'll find one new or NOS. If it is the ignition, you may need to look for a used unit.

[ozriley]

Hi Wayne,

Geez you are a good bloke, hey!

I think I will have to send you some beers!

PM'd address.

Thank you for your help

Cheers
Chris

[goandy]

Just to add a little to this topic... I had melty wires under my seat and also in the headlamp birds nest.

My alternator field coil was shot and also I had high resistance joins in quite a few plugs. Some of the multi pin plugs in the headlamp had high resistance in the actual wire-pin itself so I ended up taking out each pin one by one, using a good quality flux and soldering up the end of the wire to the pin. Fiddly work but it fixed quite a few problems.

From memory the main melted wire in the birds next was the starter wire and it took out a few of its neighbours as well.

Just pays to check the resistance on all your wires up to the pins as well...

[charles]

Add one more vote to the mix. I melted the Ignition Switch once.
It was almost comical to lift my plywood seat, connect the red wire from the bat'try to the fuse connector and kick start the bike.
How it never got stolen is a mystery to me.

CW

[ozriley]

Well Waynes RE A Ignition turned up.

Plugged it in and still nothing, had a play with the mail fuse wires which are pretty melted, although the fuse itself stayed intact?

Tried turning on the RE A Ignition again, and it all came to life.

Removed the RE5 A Ignition and plugged back in the RE5 M and it was still dead, after a bit of riggling around of the key I did find a contact point, but the Ignition is not usable in this condition, so will replace it.

And thanks to Jess, I should be able to get a replacment RE5 M Ignition.

I think the main fuse assemply has failed or shorted which inturn blew out the Ignition, or it could just be a coincidence?

Anyway I have found a replacemnt main fuse assembly as well. I took the tank off and had a look at as much wiring as I could see just to see if there was anything obvious, however most looks in good condition.

Can't thank you guys enough, the help off this forum is great.

[ozriley]

Have the RE5 M up and running again.
Thanks to Wayne, Jess and eBay.

Replaced Ignition Switch Assembly, Main Fuse Assembly, and a number of water hoses.

[wayne]

Funny, even when it sounds just like a Victa mower on a lazy Sunday, it can still sound so good.

Congrats !