Hi again everyone ,its been awaile but finaly making the effort to get back to the shed and roll out the old re5s ,first job is to fit the new taper bearings to the A now some where on here i rember their being a thread about neading to grind down the stem to make the bearing seat properly? can somebody point me towards this thread as i cant seem to drop on it . thanks martin .
Meanwhile, yes, it's true, you'll need to do something. Either grind the lip (I really don't like this idea), get a smidgin trimmed off by lathe (much better and I've used this method twice) or, as I have done in two other cases, you can place a thin shim at the bottom of the yoke under the bearing. I think I used 0.5mm and they seem to have lasted okay with the bearing settling over time but I'd be tempted to use something a little thicker next time (say 0.7 or so).
hi roger,yes reading what everyone has said i thing stock bearing is the way to go.parts will proberly be needed just spent the last hour looking for the steering stem thats all ready for painting god knows where thats hidden its self proberly has a female involved somewhere.got the A in the house engine in frame most of wiring on so starting with front end and working backwards.in theory. The orange M in the shed needing clutch pulling down tried allsorts but wont disengage so going to pull it apaart and start again .he says LOL.plenty of questions to come and hopefully see you about this year .
The orange M in the shed needing clutch pulling down tried allsorts but wont disengage so going to pull it apaart and start again .he says LOL.plenty of questions to come and hopefully see you about this year .
Hi Martin, Just curious as to what you have tried so far to free up the clutch?
I'll add that the aftermarket tapered roller bearings with the shaved races might be a bit more tricky to remove. Tim
Last Edit: Mar 31, 2016 15:43:00 GMT -5 by timpa136
My clutch seemed stock solid after standing in my garage after a rebuild. It wouldn't free, tried pulling in clutch and rocking bike in gear etc, no luck. At this point I hadn't tried starting as the starter motor was being rebuilt. I was just about to strip but thought I'd put starter motor on and try a start. Hey presto, the clutch instantly freed. Worth a try before stripping.
with regards to the clutch ,ive tried tieing the lever back and leaving for long periods both with the adjustment rod wound out and in and letting the motor get proper hot then engaging gear with bike on centre stand goes in gear with a bang as you would expect but theirs no way it will disengage drive with lever pulled in .martin
I have never experienced a lasting problem but like Ray says, worth a try before stripping. Here is what I would check,
Change the gear oil and measure it closely. Adjust the clutch per the book. I suggest rechecking the pushrod adj. if and when the clutch disengages. Start and run the bike on the center stand and take it up to top gear @ 2000 RPM and while disengaging the clutch , briefly stab the rear brake if the clutch hasn't already released. Hope this helps.