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Post by pmcburney on Nov 4, 2015 17:45:40 GMT -5
So I need to remove and replace the entire breaker housing because of it being badly damaged in the accident.
Has anyone else had experience with this?
Am I able to get the housing off without removing the entire RH engine cover?
If so, how does the breaker cam shaft and advance weight shaft come out of the housing itself?
Any info greatly appreciated...
*BTW, I wouldn't be asking the collective but for the fact that Wayne doesn't know!
Thanks
Paul
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Post by Jess on Nov 4, 2015 18:30:48 GMT -5
Am I able to get the housing off without removing the entire RH engine cover?
No.
*BTW, I wouldn't be asking the collective but for the fact that Wayne doesn't know!
Boy... will I be screwing with Wayne...
Be careful and use some penetrating oil and a quality impact driver when taking the three screws out that hold the rotating assembly in the housing. They are often gummed up badly from time, and once stripped... they are VERY difficult to remove.
Best,
P.S. I have some nice points housing covers if you can't find one locally.
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Post by pmcburney on Nov 4, 2015 19:21:23 GMT -5
Am I able to get the housing off without removing the entire RH engine cover?No. *BTW, I wouldn't be asking the collective but for the fact that Wayne doesn't know!Boy... will I be screwing with Wayne... Be careful and use some penetrating oil and a quality impact driver when taking the three screws out that hold the rotating assembly in the housing. They are often gummed up badly from time, and once stripped... they are VERY difficult to remove. Best, P.S. I have some nice points housing covers if you can't find one locally. Yeah... I've checked the Service Manual and it tells me to remove the clutch cover  . Suzuki need to be rogered with something large and painful - how hard would it have been to have the breaker shaft just splined or keyed into the drive gear/crankshaft? The housing is quite vulnerable in a RH side crash - surely you'd want it easy to remove and replace? I managed to remove the rotating assembly screws without issue with an impact driver - it's all I use on cross-head screws on bikes, it's a massive time-saver that's for sure. And, as it happens, I have misrepresented Wayne. He 'wasn't sure' as opposed not knowing altogether (which still didn't help me, by the way  ) I will grab a points housing cover (and gasket if available) from you, Jess - will PM. Thanks! Paul McB |
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Post by goandy on Nov 5, 2015 6:47:41 GMT -5
I can confirm that the only way I know of to replace the housing is to take the clutch cover off as the drive gear can only come off from behind. You may as well make a party of it and chuck in new water pump seals, clutch pack, check everything over and then 6 months later put it all back together again! |
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Post by pmcburney on Nov 5, 2015 16:33:18 GMT -5
Yes... I'll be doing the water pump shaft bush, but I won't be replacing the seals. I might check the tensioner too, but I ain't going anywhere near the clutch. Or not - it would appear that my clutch cover has never been off and is essentially now almost welded on  . Any tips on how I might be able to get it to come away from the casing without damaging anything? |
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Post by timpa136 on Nov 5, 2015 17:37:06 GMT -5
Yes... Or not - it would appear that cover has never been off and is essentially almost welded on. Any tips on how I might be able to get it to come away from the casing without damaging anything? Paul, The cover should not be that difficult to remove. There are hidden screws along the oil pump, double check the shop manual for the screw locations. The gasket is graphite impregnated and dowel pins for alignment.When going together, triple check both timing marks. I gently pry and balance/tug at the 3 screw coolant pipe to frame, It should not be that stuck that you suggest. If you don't drain the fluids overnight, you'll need a wet suit.  I would suggest then cleaning underside of the 3 screw outlet for coolant debris or corrosion with a new gasket there if you decide to pull the outlet ,as that is optional. Good luck. Tim |
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Post by Jess on Nov 5, 2015 20:17:18 GMT -5
McB,
In my humble opinion, you should never need to pry on the cover to get it loose.
Do you have dead blow hammers down under? If not, a rubber mallet will do the trick every time. Take out all the bolts... Give it a few SOLID whacks, and it will come off.
The only time it won't, is if you have missed a bolt. Go to the manual, and make CERTAIN that you have all of them out.
Trust me... You can't hurt it.
Just my 2 cents...
Best
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Post by pmcburney on Nov 5, 2015 22:21:19 GMT -5
Thanks for the advice guys.
Yeah, I reckon it's just frozen on the dowels - dissimilar metals, a bit of moisture and forty years could have something to do with it.
I'm going to stop by the local tool shop on the way home from work today and grab a f**k-off heavy plastic mallet and give it a few really good whacks and see what happens.
Bloody Suzuki...
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Post by toystoretom on Nov 5, 2015 23:05:24 GMT -5
Ooooooooo.... listen to Jess! Check to make sure you have ALL the screws out. I've only done one of these and it came off quite easily, and it had never been off before. Double check it.... that's all I'm saying.
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Post by wayne on Nov 8, 2015 1:36:23 GMT -5
Aww gee.... I've only just seen this thread after 4 days away. Misrepresented...ooh, just a bit. You be the judge. Conversation went like this.... 1st words out my mouth.. "No you can't, the gear has to come off from the other side" "yeah, but what if.... " "Well I think so, Jess designed his ignition so that you wouldn't have to remove the breaker case because that requires clutch cover removal and he didn't want customers to have to do that." "Yeeahh, but what if..." "Well you're not going to be able to pull the shaft through the oil seal anyway 'cause it's got two cams on the end of it." By now I thought he was convinced, I commiserated on the work ahead, checked he had a spare cover gasket and had a laugh that no matter how well the oils were drained he'd still end up with a litre of oil on the shed floor. I did fail to say "Paul, I'm 100% sure" and more importantly, "Paul, stop talking and just go and do the work." By the way, I did a post on a simple "spreader" tool to separate the clutch cover without damage some time back. |
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Post by goandy on Nov 8, 2015 6:44:07 GMT -5
Nice reply Wayne. I can attest to the stuck cover issue as well. Mine was frozen on the dowel pins and took a fair bit of rubber mallet whacking and gentle prying to lever it off. I think I ended up using a fairly wide pry bar to prevent any damage to the clutch cover where I was levering it.
Mine had been sitting for many years, drained of all fluids and still left a huge slimy pool of coolant and engine oil when I took it off!
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Post by Jess on Nov 8, 2015 15:45:47 GMT -5
All you Aussie guys must just hit like a girl...  Never had one that wouldn't just pop off after a couple good whacks with a rubber or leather mallet.  Best... (flame suit on)... Lol |
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Post by goandy on Nov 8, 2015 18:02:35 GMT -5
ooh them's fightin words there Jess! Have you ever seen a game of Aussie (no) Rules football? No body armour/sissy pads for our fellas! Do I have to mention Crocodile Dundee? |
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FC Zach
3rd Gear
Eagleville, TN
Posts: 335
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Post by FC Zach on Nov 9, 2015 2:26:27 GMT -5
If you don't drain the fluids overnight, you'll need a wet suit. For the win  ooh them's fightin words there Jess! Do I have to mention Crocodile Dundee? Well, we have Chuck Norris!   I like the term "f**k-off mallet" |
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Post by pmcburney on Nov 9, 2015 3:50:41 GMT -5
Aww gee.... I've only just seen this thread after 4 days away. Misrepresented...ooh, just a bit. You be the judge. Conversation went like this.... 1st words out my mouth.. "No you can't, the gear has to come off from the other side" "yeah, but what if.... " "Well I think so, Jess designed his ignition so that you wouldn't have to remove the breaker case because that requires clutch cover removal and he didn't want customers to have to do that." "Yeeahh, but what if..." "Well you're not going to be able to pull the shaft through the oil seal anyway 'cause it's got two cams on the end of it." By now I thought he was convinced, I commiserated on the work ahead, checked he had a spare cover gasket and had a laugh that no matter how well the oils were drained he'd still end up with a litre of oil on the shed floor. I did fail to say "Paul, I'm 100% sure" and more importantly, "Paul, stop talking and just go and do the work." ☺ By the way, I did a post on a simple "spreader" tool to separate the clutch cover without damage some time back.
*Zzzzzzzzz fishing is good today Sorry mate, I didn't mean to make it seem you hadn't given me good advice. You did provide very good, sound advice, thank you, I just didn't want to hear it! As it happens, I purchased a 3 lb, dead-blow, f**k-off mallet and the cover popped on the second hit. I've removed and replaced the points housing too - all I now have to do is scrape off the old stuck gasket and clean everything up. I should have the old girl purring in no time as long as I can get it all timed up properly. I didn't have a torrent of oil on the floor, fortunately, as I'd taken plenty of precautions. I did have coolant everywhere though because I didn't use the drain plug on the radiator - that's a trap for young players... Thanks to everyone for the advice too - I am now just that little bit RE5-wiser... |
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I would suggest then cleaning underside of the 3 screw outlet for coolant debris or corrosion with a new gasket there if you decide to pull the outlet ,as that is optional. Good luck.
