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Post by redbug2 on Jul 31, 2016 21:29:20 GMT -5
Got the proper out... No easy task... Split it open. Must have been the first time in, still had the wired seal on it. What have I done? Not sure that looks bad. Some scuffing on the surface. Is that normal?
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Post by goandy on Jul 31, 2016 23:56:29 GMT -5
Don't like the look of that scuffing. It appears to be roughly where the oil seal runs... Is the scuffing rough or just a bit of discoloration that wipes off? Looks like aluminium- but could be bearing material from the main rotor bearing?
You can resurface the plate surface very carefully with wet and dry paper- say around 800 grade and soapy water or light oil (your choice). Make sure you use something large and perfectly flat as a backing. That may take off some of the surface marks. If there are gouges and pits where the scuffs are, then you'll have excessive smoke and oil consumption.
Make sure all the bearings are good and inspect the main rotor plain bearing as well. You'll see straight away if it has gone through to the copper- it's ok in the join area but that's across the bearing face, not in rings around it.
Good luck and keep us updated!
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Post by goandy on Aug 1, 2016 1:52:54 GMT -5
You think that plate is bad... check this one out. One of the rotor gear cap screws let go and go scoured around...
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Post by redbug2 on Aug 5, 2016 9:43:23 GMT -5
Ok, took rotor apart.... Large bearing was a lunar landscape. Looking for doner engine..... At least I called it right, thought it felt like a bad bearing.....
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Post by goandy on Aug 5, 2016 19:38:13 GMT -5
That's a bit of a bugger! At least you know what it is I guess.
Remember if you're getting another proper unit to get the counterweights with it - they are individually matched to the rotor.
Don't throw out your old engine bits either! Another option is to get the bearing surface re white-metalled. We do it here for vintage engine bearings.
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Post by goandy on Aug 6, 2016 4:45:13 GMT -5
I guess you should also investigate why the bearings went bad- it's very unusual. You may have an oil pump issue (the sump oil that is).
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Post by redbug2 on Aug 6, 2016 20:47:25 GMT -5
Yes, I thought about why it failed. I will clean the system thoroughly. Also have a look at the oil pump. I'll follow all of the procedures in the manual.
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Post by goandy on Aug 7, 2016 1:47:50 GMT -5
Oh that's spun really bad! The journal could be repaired and bearing maybe re-metaled but the cost would probably be greater than finding another proper unit. Sorry to see that.
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Post by timpa136 on Aug 7, 2016 10:33:25 GMT -5
Is the bearing spun both on the inside and the outside?
Maybe the oil got changed but didn't have time to refill?
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Post by redbug2 on Aug 8, 2016 10:30:40 GMT -5
I found an engine on ebay. He said it was running and that it only had 7000 miles. Got it for $325 delivered. Probably cheaper than fixing the old engine. Certainly easier.
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Post by timpa136 on Aug 8, 2016 17:44:42 GMT -5
Sounds like you made out and if shipping was costly, all the sweeter deal.
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Post by goandy on Aug 9, 2016 5:51:11 GMT -5
Wow. That's insanely cheap nowadays!
Good luck and let us know how you go.
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Post by redbug2 on Aug 12, 2016 5:55:25 GMT -5
Received replacement engine carcass. Poor packaging had crushed the finned oil sump but I did not need it. A shame it was destroyed. Transmission was intact and large center block was ok along with injection pump. Proper unit was in great shape. Still has the factory seal. Apex seals were oiled and depressed by touch. Turned over easy with no bearing drag. Flywheels were still on it but had a little surface rust. Wire brushed those off. I don't want to remove the flywheels and bust something. Leaving well enough alone. Checked seal bolts through the flywheel for tightness. Everything looks good so far.
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Post by goandy on Aug 13, 2016 9:33:47 GMT -5
Good stuff. Keeping my fingers crossed for you...
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Post by redbug2 on Aug 16, 2016 6:54:14 GMT -5
I'm 5 hours into the reassembly. Left side back together. Right casing on and hopefully timed correctly, will double check before starting. So many cables! Thankfully I've done a few of these, but it's always a bit of a review. Wire brushed all of the oxidized water pump screws and coating them with anti seize compound. Bead blasted exhaust manifold. Cleaning all parts as I go. Bike was fairly clean but why not go all the way? Sprayed a few oxidized mounts. Need to get new oil filter, fluids, and new lawn tractor battery today. Oil injection cable, pipes bolted on, fluids added and it should start.
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