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Post by ohiojoe on Aug 27, 2015 14:44:03 GMT -5
I cleaned the carb as best I could, did not ultrasonic clean like suggested.….I tried my running bikes carb on it to no avail. Did not try a larger jet….
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Post by redbug2 on Aug 28, 2015 5:46:09 GMT -5
Thanks for the information Ohiojoe. I think I'm going to purchase one of those Ultrasonic cleaners. About $50 plus shipping on ebay. That RE-5 carb is so complex that I never know if I have cleaned every passageway.
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Post by snowrench on Oct 7, 2015 0:51:34 GMT -5
This is going to sound like the stupidest amateur idea ever...but I am a good mechanic with a sizeable fleet of running bikes and very little time to maintain them.... My Re5 sorta ran when I first got it. Had a hell of a time getting the spark plug out and changed, but after than it would run. Hard starting, somewhat unreliable, and I usually had to have the choke lever on halfway to run well, especially around town. I knew it really needed a carb cleaning. Jess' ignition system improved things when my CDI failed, but I think the following lame trick helped: I winterize my bikes. I drain the gas, and fill the bowls with Marvel Mystery Oil. Very detergent. On the RE5 I used a mixture of Seafoam and Marvel and let it sit over the winter. I've done it every year, and I swear it runs better every year. Starts fine (OK so the sprag kicks out)runs fine, even with the choke off. I plan on just using the Marvel this winter. I do this on all my bikes. Today's gas is crap, and I don't want it in my bowls over winter. I avoid the ethanol, but still... I also use some Marvel in the injector oil. I think its detergent qualities loosen and prevent deposits, and I suspect it may even be beneficial for o-rings. I just really didn't want to open that carburator. I don't have all the gauges and the time to learn that carb if I don't have to. If the Marvel didn't work I'd crack it open, but I didn't have to and it runs great. I not a big believer in the "tuneup in a can," but I think this worked....
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Post by wayne on Oct 7, 2015 5:11:28 GMT -5
I believe you. I had similar experiences using something suggested on the old board. Filling the carb with 50/50 carb cleaner and fuel and letting it sit for a while. It wasn't an instant cure but the bike seemed to run better and better each time until one day there wasn't a problem left to fix.
Marvel sounds like it's doing a similar job over the months.
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Post by redbug2 on May 16, 2016 6:46:48 GMT -5
Now that I have the bike in Pennsylvania I looked it over. It wants to start but the explosion is only enough to help the starter. It will fire about 5-8 times and when it does fire it feels like its got a bad bearing. I've had this situation with two strokes running against bad bearings. The more throttle you gave them the slower they ran.
I don't think it's a carb issue.
My other RE-5's don't sound like this one.
Time to look inside....
What a shame, low miles, it's a very nice bike. Must be an early model. Still has both sets of points and solid oil cooler lines.
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Post by goandy on May 17, 2016 5:54:05 GMT -5
Have you tried spraying engine starter ("Start ya bastard" here in Oz) while cranking? If it runs then you most likely have a carby issue. If not I'm guessing the timing is spot on etc? With that 130 psi it should start! Plug as well. Make sure it's a good plug- a few of us down here use R1 plugs and they're awesome.
Have you taken the plug out and spun it or the starter? Should spin fairly quick.
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Post by redbug2 on May 17, 2016 10:13:15 GMT -5
Yes, I have tried ether/starting fluid. Really not needed because it will fire with just the choke. Moved the points holder thinking it was retarded. I Advanced it to the point where the explosion was kicking back, then a little forward of that. Timing seems ok. Had the plug that was in it and the bike also came with the plug adapter. Both setups made no difference. It fires about 8 times and then the starter gets tired. Maybe I'll do a video and post it on youtube.
I believe somewhere in the history of this bike Ohiojo said he switched the carb with a running RE5 and there was no difference. I could do the same but I don't think it's the carb.
I have so many bikes in rebuild mode now that this will go on the back burner but I will have time to make a video.
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Post by timpa136 on May 17, 2016 11:31:31 GMT -5
Moved the points holder thinking it was retarded. I Advanced it to the point where the explosion was kicking back, then a little forward of that. Timing seems ok. Had the plug that was in it and the bike also came with the plug adapter. Both setups made no difference. It fires about 8 times and then the starter gets tired. Maybe I'll do a video and post it on youtube. timeing seems okNot good enough. Please set the timing closely per the bulletin and compare both lobes, then do the video for us . thanks, Tim P.S. maybe a packrat built a nest in the exhaust?
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Post by goandy on May 17, 2016 22:50:14 GMT -5
Not good enough. Please set the timing closely per the bulletin and compare both lobes, then do the video for us . thanks, Tim Absolutely! P.S. maybe a packrat built a nest in the exhaust? Interesting. Yes- check that intake and exhaust are all clear.
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Post by redbug2 on May 18, 2016 17:24:34 GMT -5
Read the manual about timing. Both Points were appropriately gapped.
I put a continuity tester on inner set of points. Did not have the official re5 tester. Points closed, buzzing from tester, rotated rotor ccw and buzzing stopped about 55 degrees before graduations on flywheel. Manual says 10 degrees before tdc. Thought spring advance might be 180 off, spun it, stupid, 180 turn does not make up 50.... Could points shaft be off...? I would think that it would be keyed in place.
Will have to run same test on my running re5 as a control.
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Post by goandy on May 18, 2016 19:36:52 GMT -5
The points can be set at pretty much anywhere because they are driven by a gear off the eccentric shaft (crankshaft).
When you remove/refit the clutch cover, you have to line up the points assembly gear and ensure the e shaft is in the right position before assembling. It's all in the engine manual. That would be your problem!
Always check the basic things....
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Post by redbug2 on May 19, 2016 10:49:42 GMT -5
Ok, good to know. I'll see if there were signs of the clutch casing being removed. Could be the problem. I'll dial things in before I decide to remove the rotor.
Might be a bit but I will check back when I get to it.
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Post by steveuk on May 19, 2016 15:51:18 GMT -5
when I got my re5A it would fire and try to start, I spent weeks trying to get it to run, then I got it running with the point housing fully over on its rotation slots and when it started it had a bearing noise which I traced to the bearing behind the left hand counterweight, it sits in a bearing carrier and is bolted to the proper unit with 3 bolts mine was missing 2 and the 3rd was loose and bent and it through the timing off even though the check said is correct a 8 degrees, change the bearing and carrier reset the timing started first touch of the button. worth a look.
steve
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Post by redbug2 on Jul 26, 2016 5:54:39 GMT -5
Hello,
Found some time to begin taking the engine apart. Took the left stator cover off, then the cover that has the sump. Thought I would see if I had the same problem that steveuk had. Removed the cover and spun the flywheel, checked tightness of all bolts. One bolt was not as tight as the others but it was still tight.
There were some small shavings down in the mild sludge within the sump. Would that be normal? I don't think so....
I'm on to the clutch side next, will see what's happening under there.
I did notice that the Re-5 manual has nothing in it about servicing the rotor...?
Regards,
redbug2
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Post by redbug2 on Jul 26, 2016 17:14:24 GMT -5
Took the right casing off. No visible signs of wear.
Set the timing per the manual. Put right casing back on, enough bolts to test it. No difference. With the tank off it sounds like there is a knock when the rotor goes under compression.
I'm going to remove the rotor. Wish me luck...
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