|
Post by ohiojoe on May 4, 2015 14:38:27 GMT -5
Still trying to get my number two re5 started. Thought I would try an upgraded electronic ignition. Well…still wouldn't start..(the original system was working better some how). Would backfire through the carb as the key was switched to the off position. Reinstalled the original equipment. Hmmm… still tries to start, just wont sustaine after releasing the start button ….Going to give up on this one for a bit...
Re5 number 3….the sellers add stated that it would run with a secondary fuel source connected…..well…when delivered there was no indication that anyone ever tried to start it with a seconday fuel source attached. I removed the brittle and broken fuel line and attached a secondary fuel source….the carb flooded and over filled…(do I contact the seller and complain )…I disconnected the fuel and gave it a crank to see what happens. It ran for a second…I will be dismantling etc. the carb making sure to note the current cable adjustments. It's a good thing I don't mind a challenge….
|
|
|
Post by jm0406 on May 4, 2015 16:32:17 GMT -5
Sounds like triple trouble to me............................... Jeff
|
|
|
Post by ohiojoe on May 4, 2015 16:42:27 GMT -5
lol…if nothing else I will have a lot of parts to sell in my retirement!!!
|
|
|
Post by charles on May 4, 2015 18:44:09 GMT -5
Ohiojoe--
Just keep doin' your good work. The engine is a marvel of mathematical simplicity. Get some basics taken care of and it will run when no other bike will. Nonetheless, while you are checking the carb, look at the timing on bike #2. Sounds like the right side cover was assembled with the timing alignment one tooth off - Timing lights, etc. to make sure.
Don't bother with the previous owner. You got the good deal. Just a little patience and care and you'll have the neighborhood dogs barking in no time - 'N don't forget the ear plugs.
CW
|
|
|
Post by ohiojoe on May 5, 2015 13:01:11 GMT -5
Dismantled #3s carb. Found not too much wrong..the jets behind the two lower plugs were gummy, the small one of the two maybe plugged. The float was set for slight too high a level. Cleaned up and reassembled. I may put the carb on bike two and give it a try.
The prior owner of bike 2 stated he rode it down the road and it quit on him and he was never able to get it running again. Just quit on him. I purchased it from him as a non running parts bike so I have no beef with him. He said he rebuilt the carb..was a bit hamfisted (everything buggard up)….this will be the third carb to try. It seems to be getting too much fuel over all, maybe not enough low speed idle fuel atomization. It does not appear that the right side cover was ever off of #2s engine. I did have #2 running for about 20 seconds last fall.
|
|
|
Post by timpa136 on May 5, 2015 14:13:51 GMT -5
Great point from Charles and forgive me if you covered this in previous posts Joe.
Double check the timeing as it is so easy as per bulletin 11 from Crit. Listen for a clean and fresh spark. Lay the plug against the cases. If a question, re clean and burnish your points. Recheck the timeing on the other lobe as they are rarely identical and my suggestion is 7 1/2 degrees BTDC max on either lobe. Just rotate the engine around again with a socket under the rubber plug for the alternator rotor, top backwards to spark again. Timpa136
|
|
|
Post by charles on May 6, 2015 13:03:49 GMT -5
Uh-Ohh...!!! re5rotary.proboards.com/search/results?ga_client_id=663128575.1397886554&what_at_least_one=woodruff&who_only_made_by=0&display_as=0Scroll down a bit 'til you find my Post. My bike completely stopped and nothing made sense until I popped the right side case off. As stated, the Primary Gear is mated to the Rotor by a Woodruff Key. Wonderful, old European solution... Then the groove that holds the Key begins to Hog Out and the Key begins to wallow back and forth until it allows the gear to rotate around the shaft. So much for timing... I s'pose you could get the Key welded or re-machine the groove. I ended up getting a new rotor (One of the last on hand for replacement...). Let's all hope it's just the Timing Gear... CW
|
|
|
Post by Jess on May 6, 2015 13:36:20 GMT -5
As I have stated many times before and even in the instructions for the electronic ignition... It will NOT cure poor running.
What it does is replace two things that have been obsolete for 30 years and are rapidly becoming IMPOSSIBLE to find. Stock points, and CDI units. It also provides greater, more consistent spark energy, meaning less plug fouling. it also has NO wear items. If the electronics don't fail, the units should outlive all of us.
95 times out of 100 an improper running RE5 is caused by a carburetion issue. If you have ignition between 3 and 20 degrees prior to TDC it WILL run, provided there is fuel/air and compression. the laws of physics are controlling. It may not run well... but it will run.
As usual... your problem sounds like fuel delivery.
Regards,
|
|
|
Post by goandy on May 7, 2015 5:13:38 GMT -5
Is it time to chime in and suggest an SU carburettor conversion?
|
|
|
Post by ohiojoe on May 7, 2015 13:10:40 GMT -5
I will be putting my efforts into bike #3 for a while. I need to verify that there isn't a "cooling leak" into the combustion chamber on #2, maybe by draining it etc….The carb I borrowed from bike #3, cleaned and installed on bike #2 did nothing at all to make bike #2 start. I will be installing carb #2 on bike #3, it looks absolutely perfect. I know it sounds like there's a joke in there somewhere!
If I get one of these running, I'm going to throw a party…free beer for all…
|
|
|
Post by jm0406 on May 7, 2015 13:26:43 GMT -5
How about pressure checking the coolant system? That would show any leakage at any location. Jeff
|
|
|
Post by ohiojoe on May 9, 2015 15:55:24 GMT -5
Installed #2's carb on bike #3....it started right up and runs perfectly! What a good feeling. Who wants a beer? I will be cosmetically restoring bike #3 and will most likely put #2 up on ebay for someone else to give a run with.....unless I easily conclude what wrong with #2.
Anyone have a good source for original style tires? There are some interesting tires on ebay although their tread patterns are different than stock.
|
|
|
Post by timpa136 on May 9, 2015 18:49:22 GMT -5
] Hey, that's great. What a good feeling I'll bet! Good news indeed.
I just mounted a set of O.E for the 1977 GS-750 and they are IRC GS11 AW. Note: IRC is Inoue which shared original equipment with Bridgestone on our RE5s.
You might try the Chaparral web site . Chaparral is also a mail order catalogue in San Bernardino, Ca. and stocks these.
|
|
|
Post by timpa136 on May 27, 2015 10:44:13 GMT -5
Joe, are you getting in some riding? Did you settle on some tires?
Timpa136
|
|
|
Post by ohiojoe on May 27, 2015 17:44:47 GMT -5
Have not rode any of the bikes yet. I did settle on the Donlop K70s 19 3.25 and 18 4.00. The exhaust is at the platers….only $900. am I crazy!!! IF I get it put back together before the pipes are done I may barrow a set from another for bike #3.
|
|