fonnyfth
1st Gear
Suzuki RE5M (1blue 1red)Suzuki SV650s Burgman 4OO
Posts: 79
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Post by fonnyfth on Apr 27, 2015 13:20:57 GMT -5
Hello there from Belgium. Hopefully someone on the board can help me with the cooling problems of my bike. As I told before I am a poor mechanic so maybe the questions I ask might be a little dumb.I don't know much about electrics. My RE5 warms (heats) up very quick.After only 5 minutes idling you can easyly bake an egg on the engine...(or burn your leg) The fan does not cut in even then...but will work when I shortcut it...
I already changed the thermoswitch (maybe this one is bad also) How does the thermoswitch operates ( activated through the temperature or through contact with the water in the connector) I heard from the previous owner there was a leak in the radiator.He fixed it by adding some kind of "pills" that he added to the cooling liquid...(can this be the cause somehow) Rubber hoses on top and bottom of the radiator seem to warm up the same. As I am not yet sure the oil metering pump is ok I run it on premix 1/50.
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Post by Glenn RE5 on Apr 27, 2015 15:39:56 GMT -5
There is a thread on here already on the fan cutting in "late" just scroll down this page and its there ...but this just covers the fan not other factors you might well look at asap ....
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Post by h2e Al In Aus on Apr 27, 2015 17:47:43 GMT -5
they do warm up quickly , what is the temp gauge showing ?, the fan comes in when they are really hot 100C , oil mix is 100/ 1 , I just fitted a lower temp fan switch as per thread on board , works great , but that may not be your problem , radiator stop leak is bad stuff fixes holes and blocks the passages in radiator just as well , hope this gives you some help Al
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Post by wayne on Apr 27, 2015 18:40:09 GMT -5
All rotary engines run really hot compared to regular 2 or 4 strokes. The exhaust gas temps are hundreds of degrees hotter than a 4 stroke (it's why the bike has such heavy and complicated exhausts which include air induction vents).
So far, I'd guess that what you're experiencing is normal.
A "normal" RE5 (ie, good clean cooling system and everything else in order) started from cold will take around 5 minutes for the temp gauge to move to the first line. "Normal" operating temps would typically see the gauge anywhere from 1/3 to a little past the 1/2 way mark. The fan won't cut in until the needle approaches the line on the right. This is also normal and generally you wouldn't see this on the road unless you were crawling in bumper to bumper traffic on a hot day.
If you leave the bike idling the temp will slowly increase until the needle gets well to the right at which point the fan will cut in. It takes a while but I've never measured it.
The thermostat is immersed in the coolant under the gooseneck at the back of the top hose. I think it works with a wax medium that expands and contracts to open and close the thermostat valve.
As for fixing leaks with "pills", it would depend where the leak is. I would drain your radiator and engine of coolant, give it a flush with the correct type of fluid (suitable for alloy) and refill with coloured coolant. The manual does specify adding 15g of Bars Leaks. I believe one of the reasons for this is to act as a lubricant for water seals and bearings (such as the water pump tip bearing).
There are many hose connections on the RE5, several under the tank. I would start with these first, hopefully any leak is just a loose hose clamp. Leaks can be deceptive. Coolant coming out of a hose clamp can run down a lot of cables and tubes and collect, for example, along the bottom tank of the radiator below the fins and make it look like the radiator itself is weeping. It may just be a leak from some of the tiny hoses below the filler neck.
Hope this helps you get a feel for RE5 temperature.
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fonnyfth
1st Gear
Suzuki RE5M (1blue 1red)Suzuki SV650s Burgman 4OO
Posts: 79
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Post by fonnyfth on Apr 28, 2015 2:52:45 GMT -5
Thanks to all of you guys...this already helps me a lot. Funny thing is that even with the temp gauge all the way to the right the fan will not cut in... Previous owner had the same problem.He installed a switch to activate it. There is no leak in the cooling system.I have a spare radiator and another spare thermoswitch. Thermostat is ok (tested it and opens at the right temp) There are no water leaks.Coolant stays topped. I will have them tested and if good install them and have another try.My engine was a complete rebuild from Suzuki Belgium but some 30 years ago but never run since 2 years ago when I bought it from a friend.
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Post by goandy on Apr 28, 2015 5:27:45 GMT -5
Put a thermometer in the top radiator hose. Run the bike and compare the temperature you see with the reading on the dash. I think there's a procedure in the manual. The dash voltage regulator can go bad which gives incorrect readings on the temp gauge. Mine did that. The fan still cut in- mind you it was pretty hot- well over 100C!
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Post by timpa136 on Apr 29, 2015 10:14:43 GMT -5
Yes and The hoses and radiator should not "warm up" the same. Feel the lower radiator tank under the carb. It should remain cold until it rapidly warms up when the thermostat opens when the gauge reads roughly 1/3.
Investing in an infra red, point and shoot thermometer, might be helpful to read temperatures at various locations on the bike ,too.
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Post by Jess on Apr 29, 2015 17:53:37 GMT -5
" Investing in an infra red, point and shoot thermometer, might be helpful to read temperatures at various locations on the bike ,too."
Tim is 100% correct. These are such a useful tool and they are much much cheaper than many years ago when they were several hundred dollars.
The appropriate amount of "pills" or stop leak was done at the factory and should be done when the coolant is changed. Most importantly, as Wayne said, it is a lubricant for the water pump. It is CRITICAL to proper operation of the cooling system.
However, too much stop leak can plug passages in the radiator causing cooling issues via blockage.
If the system is first flushed... PROPERLY. there will never be an issue.
Again, it all boils down to proper maintenance.
Just my 2 cents... YMMV
Best
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Post by wayne on Apr 29, 2015 18:59:13 GMT -5
I've replied recently to a similar problem. If your fan is not cutting in when the temp gauge is all the way to the right, I suspect your temp gauge is faulty.
The fan switch is independent of the gauge and pretty simple and foolproof and you've tested the fan itself.
I've had one of these before. Temp gauge running to the far right but in fact, the bike wasn't that hot. I replaced the gauge with one from a wrecked set of instruments and all was good.
I own an infrared thermo and it cost less than $50 here in AUS, which means that they're probably half that price in the US and Europe. As advised, get one. Just an aside though, they don't like shiny reflective surfaces like chrome or highly polished alloy. Works a treat on radiators though.
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Post by mike500 on Apr 29, 2015 20:08:09 GMT -5
in the uk you can buy an infra red thermometer for under £10 so about 14 euro or $15 us regards mike
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fonnyfth
1st Gear
Suzuki RE5M (1blue 1red)Suzuki SV650s Burgman 4OO
Posts: 79
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Post by fonnyfth on Apr 30, 2015 8:19:12 GMT -5
Hello guys again thanks very very much. I will look the internet for an infrared thermometer. Temp gauge not working will have to deal with that also.
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Post by HGH 770N on Apr 30, 2015 10:14:41 GMT -5
Fonny. Check your water level is correct , If you have a air lock and your system is not full the water censer will not read correctly and fan will not cut in. I find it best when filling from empty to do this with the tank removed so you can check header tank level after squeezing the pipes to help remove the air. The system dose not fill very quickly, there is a small pin hole in the thermostat that can get blocked that my help cause a air lock, its worth checking if you drain the system . If you over fill the system the coolant will be pushed out the filler overflow when engine gets hot and then settle with the header tank full, If all tests point to the temp switch being faulty you can still buy new ones or I have some tested used ones .
Regards Rog
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Post by grampy on Apr 30, 2015 17:42:44 GMT -5
An easy way
to check the switch is to put an ohm meter or such across both posts on the fan switch if when the temp gage goes up to red the meter should show continuity or beep meaning the contacts in the switch close. this means it is good. You may also want to check the ground wire to the fan and both connecters. The thermo meter will tell you if it is really running hot though.
Good luck Grampy
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Post by wayne on May 1, 2015 20:59:09 GMT -5
in the uk you can buy an infra red thermometer for under £10 so about 14 euro or $15 us regards mike Just what I suspected !
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fonnyfth
1st Gear
Suzuki RE5M (1blue 1red)Suzuki SV650s Burgman 4OO
Posts: 79
|
Post by fonnyfth on May 20, 2015 7:20:52 GMT -5
Thanx guys...I have the 15 euro infrared thermometer so will be able to check everything as it seems to work fine. Temp gauge solved already...Checking all the connectors I found out that the blue connector in the headlamp shell didn't match with the other connector.The temp gauge wire(black) and the oil pressure wire (green)were mixed through the connectors which I believe explains why oil pressure lamp came up with engine getting warm and the temp.gauge rushed to maximum when contact was turned on. At how much degrees should the fan cut in?(it works fine when I shortcut it)
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