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Post by grampy on Mar 29, 2015 22:36:12 GMT -5
I have a 75 Re5M totally redone. All original. The bike will turn over and start, but will not run without the choke all the way on. As soon as you take the choke off the bike quits. If I run the bike to about 4000 rpm and open the choke it will run and rev up fine. Can anybody help me with this or have any ideas what this could be? (I did find the check valve in the oil supply line to the carburetor stuck open.) Also, is there a better (thinner) oil to run for the metering pump?
GOD is Good Grampy
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Post by wayne on Mar 29, 2015 23:36:54 GMT -5
A dumb suggestion but is it simply because your primary butterfly is fully closed ?
The choke closes it's own butterfly to provide "choking" but it is also mechanically linked to the primary butterfly to open it slightly more when the choke is on. Could it be then when you take the choke off, your primary is simply not open enough to keep it going ?
Regarding the oil, see the recent posts......GTX is the oil recommended by Suzuki. If it ain't broke, I wouldn't fix it. Cheap, readily available, manufacturer endorsed. If there's something better, I'm happy for someone to find it and when they've done 50,000 trouble free miles using it, let me know.
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Post by h2e Al In Aus on Mar 30, 2015 2:06:27 GMT -5
wouldnt be a blocked primary main Jet ? , running on idle and 2ndy ? only
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Post by Jess on Mar 30, 2015 7:34:55 GMT -5
This is why all check valves should be replaced. if the bike had run for any significant time... game over.
The choke problem is the choke unloader valve has failed.
Good luck finding one. I had to have them made.
Regards
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Post by grampy on Apr 1, 2015 23:28:03 GMT -5
This is why all check valves should be replaced. if the bike had run for any significant time... game over. The choke problem is the choke unloader valve has failed. Good luck finding one. I had to have them made. Regards The check valve was replaced, I think it was stuck open from the super cold weather we've had. I noticed it when I tested the metering pump. Upon flushing the check valve it works good. After priming the hose I also induced some 32:1 gasoline in the carburetor. So, the bike did not run long, only about 30 seconds with no seal oil. The bike now starts but will only run at a high rpm with the choke almost closed. I have tested the choke unloader diaphragm and find no problem with it. All the other adjustments were set with the protractor to the new bulletin specs. Is there something else to check on the choke unloader? Thanks again for being the Re5 guru that Sam made you Also, thank you Wayne for the information about the oil. The bike had been put away 38 years ago with the carburetor totally clean. I took the carburetor off and it was spotless but cleaned it again to be sure and adjusted it with the protractor, so it doesn't seem that the problem is with the butterfly or dirty jets. Bulletin says to turn the Pilot Screw out a half turn and then adjust in eighth turn increments. This does not seem to help either. This Easter weekend I hope to get some more checks made and will get back to you guys. Thanks again for the help.
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Post by HGH 770N on Apr 2, 2015 9:36:57 GMT -5
As Wayne said if your primary butterfly is fully closed it will not run off choke. Primary jet could be blocked ? It could be your cables are not set up rite and or your lifter disconnected or leaking. Will the engine hold at the 4000 revs? You could remove the inlet horn and look .
Rog
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Post by timpa136 on Apr 2, 2015 9:52:45 GMT -5
Grampy,
If I understand you , the choke is operating properly, correct linkage etc. It sounds like the mixture is lean and you are enriching it enough at low speeds with the choke by blocking the air . Often it doesn't take much to clog the primary pilot fuel jet. I call that jet the last fuel filter in line!!!
Knowing that, you can remove the jet from the top without disassembling the carburetor. Loosen the secondary diaphragm and allow it to fall back for access to the pilot jet. I lube the o-ring and assemble it back on the jet when reinstalling. Hope this helps.
Timpa136
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Post by timpa136 on Apr 2, 2015 10:07:47 GMT -5
.GTX is the oil recommended by Suzuki. If it ain't broke, I wouldn't fix it. Cheap, readily available, manufacturer endorsed. If there's something better, I'm happy for someone to find it and when they've done 50,000 trouble free miles using it, let me know. Me, me, me. grin
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Post by wayne on Apr 2, 2015 19:02:19 GMT -5
Okay, fair enough, next question, is it cheaper, is it better ?
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Post by grampy on Apr 4, 2015 13:53:53 GMT -5
Thanks to all you guys I checked the primary throttle valve and I can see that it is open although it may not be as far as needed. The book says 8* and also says while setting it up don't worry too much about it because when you set the cable and idle screw it will be open enough. However I can't keep it running slow enough without the choke on to set it Cause when you have the choke fully closed it opens the primary throttle valve to enrich the fuel mixture for starting.This is working OK. I can see a drop or so of fuel come into the secondary when I push the choke lever all the way closed also. Maybe being 68 years old is stopping my brain. Happy Easter to all. I will try looking at everything again do as timpa136 suggested and get back to you guys.
wish me luck Grampy
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Post by timpa136 on Apr 4, 2015 18:42:38 GMT -5
I thought of one more thing, the idle screw isn't the actual screw. Pull the two screw holder and make sure the real idle tapered adjuster isn't stuck down, too.
Don't forget the vacuum hose to the petcock.
OKAY, good luck!
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Post by grampy on Apr 10, 2015 10:41:02 GMT -5
Hi
I have tried all the suggestions put forth from everyone and it will run roughly at about half choke now. At 4000 rpm it is great. There is not much of a problem revving it up once I have it up to 2500 rpm.It has to be something simple I am over looking. It just isn't rich enough. I am going to check vacuum this afternoon incase there is a leak. I just don't know now I even used one of Jess' air filters PLEASE straighten this old man out! I can't wait to ride this beautiful thing Grampy
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Post by cresco750 on Apr 10, 2015 14:18:22 GMT -5
I had similar issues with my bike when I first got it. It had been parked up for several years prior with what was thought to be stuck apex seals causing starting issues. I tried various things until I eventually got the carb ultrasonically cleaned and fitted a new bowl gasket. Runs well now.
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Post by Jess on Apr 10, 2015 14:37:00 GMT -5
If you have compression and spark... the only thing left is air/fuel. People have spent years troubleshooting problems when they turned out to be #1, the carb or #2 a faulty spark plug.
95% of the time, the carb is dirty, blocked passages, jets in the wrong place...etc. 5% of the time a bad plug will exhibit bizarre behavior.
The ONLY way to properly service an Re5 carb is with an Ultrasonic. The one I used in the shop was $15,000 and used a cleaner that was 100.00 per gallon. I'm not saying that anyone has to use that kind of equipment, as any decent commercial ultrasonic will do a fine job, with the right solution and operator.
I had one fellow who shipped me a bike, and I put a spark plug in it, and sent it back. about 1100.00 worth of shipping for a 45.00 plug.
Specifically to GRAMPY... If you have done all of the things you say you have done then I am convinced that your carburetor is either dirty, or misassembled.
Just my 2 cents. Your mileage may vary.
Regards,
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ap951
2nd Gear
Posts: 279
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Post by ap951 on Apr 10, 2015 16:57:14 GMT -5
Hi grampy,
When doing engine work on motorcycles in the past I have (more then once) made the mistake of failing to plug in all the vacuum lines. If one is left un-plugged the bike will only run with the choke on.
I don't know if this is your problem but thoroughly check all the fittings & vacuum lines connected to the carb, petcock, manifold & anything you can find. All it takes is one disconnected line to create what you have
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