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Post by jaycee69 on Mar 20, 2015 12:56:50 GMT -5
Hi All,
I was wondering what kind of oil I should be running in my RE5, i.e. Synthetic, non-synthetic, car oil ect..
Any help would be great. Also what kind of oil would you use to free up rotor seals.
Thank you very much for your help.
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Post by wayne on Mar 20, 2015 15:36:00 GMT -5
Garden variety Castrol GTX as recommended by the factory. Not GTX2 or 3, just the old stuff.
Use it in the sump and the under seat tank. MAYBE there's better oils out there, but personally why risk any engine damage at this stage when we know this one works.
As for freeing up seals, I have heard of diesel being used if you've actually got stuck seals. It is the basis for those "penetrene" type products to free up rusted and seized nuts and bolts and should do the same for apex and side seals.
Flush it out well with GTX once the bike is showing compression on each lobe and then let the GTX drain as best you can.
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Post by jaycee69 on Mar 22, 2015 21:07:41 GMT -5
just a castrol gtx 10-30 or 10-40 automotive oil?
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Post by Jess on Mar 22, 2015 22:50:02 GMT -5
20-50 gtx
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Post by jaycee69 on Mar 23, 2015 0:05:37 GMT -5
also, on initial start up (this bike has been sitting but turns over, the other one is seized) should i add oil to the fuel? just in case the metering pump is not working? what ratio?
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Post by jaycee69 on Mar 23, 2015 0:35:06 GMT -5
im sorry to all asking these "Duh" questions, its just hard to wrap my head around as im a two stroke guy diving back into rotaries after a long hiatus ( had arctic cat snowmobiles with Wankels and a bunch of Mazda rotaries. The RE5 is a different rotary to me), so we are talking about basic 20 w 50 gtx from any local walmart here in canada? nothing special? what does the container look like?
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Post by wayne on Mar 23, 2015 0:59:31 GMT -5
I add oil to the fuel for an initial start.
The pump puts it in at 100:1. I just add 30 ml to 3 litres, enough to get it running and test the pump.
Once the pump operation is confirmed, filling the tank with fuel will dilute what you started with down enough so it no longer matters.
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Post by jaycee69 on Mar 23, 2015 23:21:35 GMT -5
so you run a 100:1 mix in the tank for testing the pump?
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Post by jm0406 on Mar 23, 2015 23:46:20 GMT -5
People add oil to the fuel to protect and lubricate the rotor when testing the oil pump output. 80 or 100 to 1 should offer the protection needed. Make sure you also have oil in the sump, left hand side in the front, black plug. Jeff
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Post by wayne on Mar 24, 2015 1:15:40 GMT -5
I can't help you with what the GTX container looks like as I'm in a different market to you. But yes, just plain old 20-50.
One other thing worth checking is the lines from the oil pump itself (lower front of engine, right side from rider's position).
Take the cover off, check that the oil line that goes to the carby is connected to the lower of the two output holes (M models have two output lines, one near the top of the pump, one near the bottom. THe upper goes to chain oil, the lower to carb. A models should have one only, the lower to the carb, the upper has a small screw in it to block it off- note, some M models may only have one line as previous owners blanked off the upper chain oiler).
I mention this because a friend bought a rotary and fortunately knew enough to give it a once-over. These connections were the wrong way around and would ultimately spell disaster as the chain oiler pumps oil at half the rate of the carby oiler.
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Post by timpa136 on Apr 8, 2015 16:47:20 GMT -5
I would be remiss in my duties if I didn't refer you to service bulletin #11 that Crit has made available.
I have used exclusively either Suzuki oil, Shell 10w50, now 10w40 but primarily only Mobil 10w-40 here in the states, after having the proper oil use drilled into me.
This copy from Shell 10-40 which I am currently using. Formula shell 10W-40 conventional motor oil meets or exceeds the North American warranty requirements for US., European and Japanese cars and light truck and small power equipment, generators, and off-road equipment with gasoline and gasoline turbo-charged engines where api SN, SM, SJ etc. oils are specified. Conventional motor oil is compatible with other conventional and synthetic oils. · Protection for extremely high temperatures· Protection against harmful deposits and acids, which aids in a clean running and lasting engine· May be used at any time in an engines life-cycle and is fully compatible with conventional engine oils· Conventional motor oil is formulated for improved fuel economy
Respectfully Timpa136
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Post by wayne on Apr 8, 2015 18:52:52 GMT -5
Ah yes, completely reasonable and in the same ball park as GTX and in fact approved by Suzuki back in the day.
I thought you meant some modern exotic oil which someone will occasionally pop up with and say "why aren't we using XX super synthetic turbo blitz".
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Post by charles on Apr 8, 2015 20:59:27 GMT -5
The SAE Paper on the RE-5 specifies only a "low ash" 10w-40. That's all I ever used. Worked fine.
CW
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Post by riversidogs on Apr 9, 2015 20:27:30 GMT -5
I called Mobil a couple years ago to ask about using Mobil 1 in my RE5 and they said NO not recommended. So I continue to use the GTX
Riversidogs
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Post by jaycee69 on Jul 29, 2015 10:08:45 GMT -5
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