Garden variety Castrol GTX as recommended by the factory. Not GTX2 or 3, just the old stuff.
Use it in the sump and the under seat tank. MAYBE there's better oils out there, but personally why risk any engine damage at this stage when we know this one works.
As for freeing up seals, I have heard of diesel being used if you've actually got stuck seals. It is the basis for those "penetrene" type products to free up rusted and seized nuts and bolts and should do the same for apex and side seals.
Flush it out well with GTX once the bike is showing compression on each lobe and then let the GTX drain as best you can.
im sorry to all asking these "Duh" questions, its just hard to wrap my head around as im a two stroke guy diving back into rotaries after a long hiatus ( had arctic cat snowmobiles with Wankels and a bunch of Mazda rotaries. The RE5 is a different rotary to me), so we are talking about basic 20 w 50 gtx from any local walmart here in canada? nothing special? what does the container look like?
People add oil to the fuel to protect and lubricate the rotor when testing the oil pump output. 80 or 100 to 1 should offer the protection needed. Make sure you also have oil in the sump, left hand side in the front, black plug. Jeff
I can't help you with what the GTX container looks like as I'm in a different market to you. But yes, just plain old 20-50.
One other thing worth checking is the lines from the oil pump itself (lower front of engine, right side from rider's position).
Take the cover off, check that the oil line that goes to the carby is connected to the lower of the two output holes (M models have two output lines, one near the top of the pump, one near the bottom. THe upper goes to chain oil, the lower to carb. A models should have one only, the lower to the carb, the upper has a small screw in it to block it off- note, some M models may only have one line as previous owners blanked off the upper chain oiler).
I mention this because a friend bought a rotary and fortunately knew enough to give it a once-over. These connections were the wrong way around and would ultimately spell disaster as the chain oiler pumps oil at half the rate of the carby oiler.
I would be remiss in my duties if I didn't refer you to service bulletin #11 that Crit has made available.
I have used exclusively either Suzuki oil, Shell 10w50, now 10w40 but primarily only Mobil 10w-40 here in the states, after having the proper oil use drilled into me.
This copy from Shell 10-40 which I am currently using.
Formula shell 10W-40 conventional motor oil meets or exceeds the North American warranty requirements for US., European and Japanese cars and light truck and small power equipment, generators, and off-road equipment with gasoline and gasoline turbo-charged engines where api SN, SM, SJ etc. oils are specified. Conventional motor oil is compatible with other conventional and synthetic oils. · Protection for extremely high temperatures· Protection against harmful deposits and acids, which aids in a clean running and lasting engine· May be used at any time in an engines life-cycle and is fully compatible with conventional engine oils· Conventional motor oil is formulated for improved fuel economy
Last Edit: Mar 6, 2019 13:00:49 GMT -5 by timpa136