t140v
3rd Gear
Posts: 422
|
Post by t140v on Oct 10, 2014 16:55:21 GMT -5
Evening All,
Made another couple of spark plug adaptors in 303 stainless this week.
they take the NGK LMAR9E-J Yamaha R1 YZF plug which are readily available and a lot cheaper than the original.
Ebay listing (191545832609)
Regards Stuart.
|
|
|
Post by Jess on Oct 10, 2014 17:40:43 GMT -5
Stuart,
They say imitation is the sincerest form of flattery. I'm glad you like my design.
In your ebay description, you state that the ones you made are the correct length so that the plug tip cannot impact the rotor. It is physically impossible for a spark plug to impact the rotor due to the insert in the engine.
What I did not take into account with my adapters is the plug receptacle insert in the engine varies in thickness. Some engines require a shim, some do not. I felt that the closer I could get to the ignition event, the less likely plugs would foul. After years of studying the issue, millimeters make a huge difference in plug longevity.
Again, it is physically impossible to make a plug enter into the rotor housing... Period.
I wish you the best with your project.
Regards,
|
|
t140v
3rd Gear
Posts: 422
|
Post by t140v on Oct 10, 2014 18:29:39 GMT -5
Stuart, They say imitation is the sincerest form of flattery. I'm glad you like my design. In your ebay description, you state that the ones you made are the correct length so that the plug tip cannot impact the rotor. It is physically impossible for a spark plug to impact the rotor due to the insert in the engine. What I did not take into account with my adapters is the plug receptacle insert in the engine varies in thickness. Some engines require a shim, some do not. I felt that the closer I could get to the ignition event, the less likely plugs would foul. After years of studying the issue, millimeters make a huge difference in plug longevity. Again, it is physically impossible to make a plug enter into the rotor housing... Period. I wish you the best with your project. Regards, Evening Jess, the copper insert that the spark plug screws into appears to be made in two pieces with the bottom soldered on, I did not want to sell somethng that could dislodge the bottom of the copper insert when the plug was tightened and foul the rotor, I take it the original spark plugs are identical so why the need for the varying length between the bottom of the copper insert and the tapered shoulder of the spark plug, and I dont know if you noticed but on "your design" the big collar on the top of the adaptor made contact with the rotor casing before the taper on the adaptor made contact with the taper in the plug hole so did not seat properly . I have resolved that problem on my design. Regards Stuart
|
|
|
Post by Jess on Oct 10, 2014 20:04:30 GMT -5
Stuart,
We will have to agree to disagree. I have cut apart many housings and never found a soldered brass plug insert. Every one I have seen is a cast unit.
My adaptor moves the plug approximately .200 closer to the spark event. After much RD and testing, I believe the closer the plug to the firing event the longer it lasts and the less it fouls.
Anyways, it is not particularly relevant. We are closed and no longer in the parts business. I wish you the best of luck and hope you sell a thousand of your design...
Regards,
|
|
|
Post by ozre5 on Oct 10, 2014 21:41:19 GMT -5
Hi Stuart, I just purchased one from your ebay link. Hope you ship to Australia!
Cheers Glenn
|
|
t140v
3rd Gear
Posts: 422
|
Post by t140v on Oct 11, 2014 7:57:14 GMT -5
Hi Stuart, I just purchased one from your ebay link. Hope you ship to Australia! Cheers Glenn On its way Glenn, thanks. Stuart.
|
|
|
Post by HGH 770N on Oct 11, 2014 13:45:49 GMT -5
Stuart, They say imitation is the sincerest form of flattery. I'm glad you like my design. In your ebay description, you state that the ones you made are the correct length so that the plug tip cannot impact the rotor. It is physically impossible for a spark plug to impact the rotor due to the insert in the engine. What I did not take into account with my adapters is the plug receptacle insert in the engine varies in thickness. Some engines require a shim, some do not. I felt that the closer I could get to the ignition event, the less likely plugs would foul. After years of studying the issue, millimeters make a huge difference in plug longevity. Again, it is physically impossible to make a plug enter into the rotor housing... Period. I wish you the best with your project. Regards, Interesting Jess. With the engines varying in thickness could answer part of the issue why some engines with original plugs burn out plugs quicker than other engines. I was told many years ago by Jeff Monty that over tightening the plug could put stain on the insert and may even contribute to cracking the housing. It is impossible for the plug to enter the housing but the whole insert could if it was loose and the plug became loose. maybe this is what happened to Glenn engine ?
|
|
|
Post by timpa136 on Oct 11, 2014 14:20:47 GMT -5
maybe this is what happened to Glenn engine ? Read more: re5rotary.proboards.com/thread/1906/stainless-steel-spark-plug-adaptors#ixzz3FriZ5qC6I remember hearing it is best to not even remove a hot plug unless an emergency such as a carbon bridge as on a ride etc. As to sparkplug torque, the tool kit plug socket extension is never to be used for tightening. This may be related, maybe Suzuki quietly added some meat to the center housing on the A model which might account for the differences in plug depth???
|
|
|
Post by wayne on Oct 11, 2014 18:12:06 GMT -5
Hi Rog, What am I seeing in that first photo with the blue calipers ?
Is that a complete plug insert removed from the housing ?
Thanks, Wayne
|
|
|
Post by pmcburney on Oct 11, 2014 21:41:02 GMT -5
G'day Stuart,
It's great that you're continuing Jess' work - good luck with these.
As for the copper insert, is it not pressed in from the outside against a shoulder in the housing?
|
|
|
Post by HGH 770N on Oct 12, 2014 14:15:19 GMT -5
Hi Rog, What am I seeing in that first photo with the blue calipers ? Is that a complete plug insert removed from the housing ? Thanks, Wayne Wayne. Yes that is a insert removed with some ease from one of my scrap housings . When inserting a plug i noticed it was loose so with some heat from blow torch and a tap it was knocked out and sent to Stuart to use on making his inserts. The insert seem as if it is only tolerance fit into the casing and them the chrome chamber treatment sealed it in before grinding off to spec, Not very good considering the heat that is exposed to that area. Rog
|
|
|
Post by HGH 770N on Oct 12, 2014 14:41:40 GMT -5
The insert has NO LOCATING SHOULDER and would have been inserted from the outside looking at the knurled edge on the insert and then ground to shape with the chamber. This would certainly make way for error on the plug gap when inserted. Above you can see the black line where the top of the insert was located ( SEE BELOW) and below that the knurled marks off the insert
|
|
joe
1st Gear
Posts: 49
|
Post by joe on Oct 13, 2014 15:32:02 GMT -5
Hello Stuart,
Excellent job and just what I need for my Van Veen. The plug adaptor supplied from Jess is excellent and I can use it on my RE5 as thats what it's made for but it's just to big across the flats to screw into the Van Veen rotor housings without fouling the casting before it's fully home.
Put me down for two please.
Regards, Joe.
|
|
|
Post by jm0406 on Oct 14, 2014 10:02:57 GMT -5
I hope the long knives don't come out for Jess. We all build on the other guy's shoulders. Lots of people purchased Jess adapters that kept their bikes running. Every bike we can get/keep running is good. I look forward to hearing feedback on the new adapter. Jeff
|
|
shep
1st Gear
Posts: 93
|
Post by shep on Oct 15, 2014 23:40:09 GMT -5
Can you ship one to the US?
|
|