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Post by timpa136 on Oct 18, 2014 15:01:54 GMT -5
Excellent points from everybody. If you don't have one, an old fashion hydrometer for motorcycles really helps to determine a bad battery cell. I have found most voltage regulators are set too high for my preference( over 15.0 volts) All these will make the charging system work overtime. I am also interested as to how the universal rectifier works out for you.
Tim
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Post by motomartin on Mar 15, 2015 21:50:49 GMT -5
Did this ever issue get resolved? I have a similar issue. The fuse blows (not when the bike is running but when the ignition is switched on) The wires from the rectifier (not the regulator) get hot. The headlight is dim.
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Post by wayne on Mar 16, 2015 17:06:12 GMT -5
Martin, I can only relate to you the solution to a similar situation. My bike always had hot wires around the rectifier, the multi pin plug under the seat near the battery got so hot and distorted I had to replace it. Those "red" wires were always hot.
To cut a long story short, it turned out to be a short in the ignition switch itself. I realised this when all electrics failed. The heat had finally melted the solder on a wire under the ignition. Replaced it with another one and both the ignition issue and the other electrical problems which had plagued my bike for its first 20 years disappeared.
I have reason to believe that my ignition switch may not be a "one-off". I've come across someone else who's had the same issue.
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Post by motomartin on Mar 16, 2015 23:05:56 GMT -5
Hi Wayne, Yes, I think you are on the right track with the ignition switch. I have taken apart every other connector on the bike and cleaned them and was eying the ignition. It is strange how it will pop the fuse without the motor even running, that seems to rule out the regulator and the rectifier. Problem with the ignition switch is that with my ham fisted skills it can't really be serviced, the ball bearings and springs just go all over the place - I have tried in the past.
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Post by Jess on Mar 16, 2015 23:09:38 GMT -5
The rectifier was always a "problem child". It was a poor design from the factory. Even the updated rectifier that Suzuki replaced ours with was not a very robust unit. Combined with worn contacts in the ignition switch, they could start a fire.
One of the main issues was that Suzuki used a ground via the body of the rectifier to the frame of the bike. The nut that held the thing in place was the only ground.
The units I had built had a separate ground wire from the plug. It was also grounded via bolting to the chassis. I have never had one of my units fail, or for that matter even get hot.
Any aftermarket unit is better than the stock Suzuki unit. Cheap insurance against a bike in flames.
Just my 2 cents.
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Post by wayne on Mar 17, 2015 0:43:47 GMT -5
Problem with the ignition switch is that with my ham fisted skills it can't really be serviced, the ball bearings and springs just go all over the place - I have tried in the past. I probably need to clarify Martin, I replaced not just the wire but the entire switch. I would have made a mess of it too if I'd tried to dismantle and repair.
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Post by motomartin on Mar 25, 2015 20:38:41 GMT -5
I opened up the ignition switch and cleaned the contacts. No improvement. Do you think it is two separate problems? 1. The fuse blows when the bike is switched on - motor not running.(Is the regulator even doing anything at this point?) 2. The wiring and regulator get really hot when the motor is running.
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Post by wayne on Mar 25, 2015 21:05:09 GMT -5
I'm not an electrical guy, all voodoo to me. But I would imagine the rectifier is not doing anything at that point and has nothing to do with the fuse blowing.
Do you have another ignition switch from an RE5 to plug in and just try. I felt that the problem with my ignition was more than just dirt. At least you could eliminate the ignition switch that way.
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Post by mike500 on Mar 27, 2015 8:28:19 GMT -5
a bad stator can cause the fuse and hot wire problems regards mike
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Post by timpa136 on Mar 31, 2015 11:41:02 GMT -5
Did this ever issue get resolved? I have a similar issue. The fuse blows (not when the bike is running but when the ignition is switched on) The wires from the rectifier (not the regulator) get hot. The headlight is dim. Martin, Did you find the problem? If you can still duplicate the shorting, disconnect any connector one at a time and see if the short goes away. The battery dim is a hint of problem area. Make sure your battery is good, fully charged and tests good with a M/C hydrometer. Check the Headlamp switch and wiring carefully. Hope you are able to narrow it down. Timpa136
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Post by goandy on Apr 1, 2015 5:22:42 GMT -5
Fickle things these bike with 40 year old electrics! Mine has the melted wires under the seat, fuses started blowing so replaced faulty rectifier then the reg started playing up so replaced that. Stator is fine. Just seen a badly melted wire in the headlamp bucket- the starter motor button wire. Might swap ign switch as well and test. I still think a lot of it is due to poor crusty connections at the wiring plugs and earthing points in addition to flaky reg/recs and ign switch. So everything really!
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Post by timpa136 on Apr 1, 2015 9:47:58 GMT -5
Fickle things these bike with 40 year old electrics! Mine has the melted wires under the seat, fuses started blowing so replaced faulty rectifier then the reg started playing up so replaced that. Stator is fine. Just seen a badly melted wire in the headlamp bucket- the starter motor button wire. Might swap ign switch as well and test. I still think a lot of it is due to poor crusty connections at the wiring plugs and earthing points in addition to flaky reg/recs and ign switch. So everything really! Good point Andy, One frame ground at the top, goes thru 2 or 3 painted brackets on the M models.
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Post by motomartin on Apr 4, 2015 0:30:54 GMT -5
It still seems like two separate issues to me - as the fuse blows with the motor off, in fact the fuse does not blow with the motor running. The fuse blows with the motor off, with the ignition in the on position just prior to pushing the start button. The battery is good, and I have cleaned all the connectors and the ground to the frame. The headlight being dim (with the motor running) seems like it is because all the electrical power is going to heat/melt the wiring. I do have a spare motor that I can pull the stator off, if that is a likely fix.
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Post by timpa136 on Apr 4, 2015 18:50:19 GMT -5
Interesting . So if you quickly start the bike it will run and charge OK?
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Post by motomartin on Nov 28, 2016 20:46:17 GMT -5
I finally fixed the electrical issue. I replaced the "front loom" with another one and all is fine now - no fuses blowing, headlight works nicely, wires staying cool. I think somewhere the old wiring was arching out. Now on to making the bike run better. It can be ridden but bogs if the throttle is opened greater than 1/4 turn.
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