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Post by gts1000 on Jul 2, 2012 13:47:33 GMT -5
I am having minor problems downloading the manual, so thought I would ask the question here. I need to remove and clean the carb but it looks like a sod to get at, with all the cables and such. Is there an easy way to get it off please?
Cheers,
Biggles
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Post by jm0406 on Jul 2, 2012 14:10:52 GMT -5
One or two hits with a large hammer usually does the trick.............
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t140v
3rd Gear
Posts: 422
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Post by t140v on Jul 2, 2012 14:56:48 GMT -5
Evening Brian, if you lie on the floor and look up under the carb you will see a nut on the end of a stud 14mm I think, could be 13, thats one that needs to come off, round the other side remove the two bolts that hold the cooling fan on and with a bit of manipulation the cooling fan will detach and come out.
Once removed you will see the the two nuts on the other studs.
Long and short extensions needed to remove said nuts.
Back round to the carb side, move the carb a little this will allow easier access to the oil feed pipe, remove vacuum pipe remember where it goes, then where all the cables go into the side of the carb remove the screws and the cables will come away from the carb with the box.
Forgot to mention to remove the clip at the top of the inlet tube and the three dome nuts at the bottom of the alloy inlet tube.
Think thats just about everything. Good luck, first time took me hours now takes about 10 mins.
Regards Stuart.
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Post by pmcburney on Jul 2, 2012 16:54:34 GMT -5
The carb can be removed without removal of any other part, e.g. the fan-shroud etc.
Get yourself a 1/4 inch drive socket set with a couple of long extensions, a universal (angled) adaptor and a 12mm socket.
When removing the nuts at the top (from the RHS of the bike), feed the extensions, uni adaptor and socket in between the wiring and hoses and such.
You'll easily be able to reach and loosen/tighten the two top nuts, and the uni adaptor allows you to apply the necessary torque at an angle (because you won't be able to come at the nuts perfectly straight).
Finding and retrieving the nuts and washers after dropping them out of the socket onto the top of the motor a dozen times in succession... well you're on your own with that.
AMHIK.
The cables can only be removed easily once the carb is unbolted as it's nigh on impossible to remove the screws securing the choke cover otherwise.
Remember to reattach all the cables prior to bolting the carb back on the manifold lest large amounts of frustration ensue.
AMHIK.
Don't forget the oil-pump connection - an 8mm ring spanner takes care of that.
It can be removed and replace with the carb bolted down, but is slightly easier to wrangle whilst the carb is off.
AMHIK.
Good luck.
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Post by gts1000 on Jul 3, 2012 10:05:42 GMT -5
Piece of cake! It came off in about 20 minutes, including removing the rad fan (definately helps getting to the bolts and not losing the washers). The hardest part was getting the cables off the quadrant, but a small screwdriver helped there. Of to get it cleaned now. It doesn't look too bad inside apart from in the throttle bodies and flaps, which have a lot of gunk on them. The jets all look fairly clean and un-molested.
Biggles
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Post by wayne on Jul 3, 2012 16:58:07 GMT -5
Now you have it off, be very careful of two things when you take the float bowl lid off.
The smaller of the two jets that are adjacent to the brass standpipe contains a fine needle. It's hard to see in place and will drop straight out if you're turning the carb around. Don't lose it.
This jet is NOT removable. Almost every "serviced" carb I see has this jet damaged as someone has tried to unscrew it. It is the pipe for the accelerator pump. It is worth checking that the tiny hole in this pipe inside the secondary throat actually still faces downstream (towards the engine). I have seen it 180 degrees where somewhere tried to unscrew the jet not realising what they were actually moving.
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Post by gts1000 on Jul 7, 2012 7:25:45 GMT -5
Carb sonic-cleaned (took about four goes and a scraper to get the worst of the resin-like deposits off), all back together now without problems. I checked all the jet sizes as a matter of course and they are all correct and look like they have never been out before.
Back on the bike and with some pre-mix in an old lawn-mover fuel tank (makes a great jury-tank for carb-balancing, etc.) it fired up and ran quite nicely. It needs a good run to get properly warm and run without choke, but I am well pleased.
Charging circuit is working too, clutch is free and the gears engage, so things are looking good for a MoT test next weekend. Just waiting for a few parts to arrive, and get them fitted. The fuel tank is flushed out and fuel level sender hole blanked off.
One minor concern is the buzzing I can hear from the igniter box when the ignition is on but the engine not running. It goes away when I turn off the kill switch on the bars, and I can't hear if it is still buzzing when the engine is running. Has any one else experienced this, and is it a cause for concern (failing inginter unit?)?
Cheers,
Biggles
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Post by mike500 on Jul 7, 2012 7:48:07 GMT -5
the buzzing is the cdi if you dont get the buzzing then you have a problem i.e dead cdi box so only worry when you cant hear it regards mike
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Post by gts1000 on Jul 7, 2012 7:57:59 GMT -5
Hi Mike.
Thanks for that. It puts my mind at rest on that subject. I don't think I have ever had a bike that buzzed from the CDI/igniter box before, so was just a bit worried about it failing. I imaging that replacement igniter boxes are a wee bitty scarce!
Biggles
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Post by wayne on Jul 7, 2012 17:38:18 GMT -5
Also just for info, the manual says to never use the kill switch except in an emergency. Apparently it can damage something in the CDI.
Difficult to get used to if you've been riding "ordinary" Japanese bikes.
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gerryggg
2nd Gear
I'm Lost In Thought, Please Send a Search Party.
Posts: 225
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Post by gerryggg on Jul 8, 2012 8:45:42 GMT -5
I've found that most people tend to over use the kill switch. Even on "ordinary" Japanese bikes it is designed for emergencies. When you turn the ignition key off you remove power from the ignition unit, ending the spark and shutting the bike off. Once done, there is no reason to use the kill switch and using it only puts unnecessary wear on the contacts. Many kill switches stop spark by grounding the output of the ignition box, rather than sending it to the coil. This stops the bike rapidly, but is not necessarily the best thing for the box. Most modern bikes route the power to the box through the kill switch and some sort of side stand interlock. Opening the circuit through the kill switch doesn't harm the box, but does cause some wear in the contacts, unnecessary since the ignition switch does the same thing. I also find that many people forget they have turned the kill switch off and, especially if your starter circuit voltage doesn't also go through the kill switch results in a bike that will crank over but not start.
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gerryggg
2nd Gear
I'm Lost In Thought, Please Send a Search Party.
Posts: 225
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Post by gerryggg on Jul 8, 2012 8:49:54 GMT -5
Hi Mike. Thanks for that. It puts my mind at rest on that subject. I don't think I have ever had a bike that buzzed from the CDI/igniter box before, so was just a bit worried about it failing. I imaging that replacement igniter boxes are a wee bitty scarce! Biggles Old Kawasaki H1s would do it as well. Early DC CDIs do it because of the components used in the days prior to solid state. I believe there is an oscillator or inverter in the box that makes the noise. As mentioned, the only time to worry is if you can't hear it!  |
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Post by re5norway on Jul 8, 2012 12:22:05 GMT -5
There is no problem using the kill switch, this switch will also cut off the battery supply to the CDI, just as the ignition switch. Suzuki warned using the kill switch to switch ignition off an on during riding, because switching on again will fire any fuel sucked into the engine and exhaust pipes, and this could cause an explosion?
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Post by pmcburney on Jul 8, 2012 17:59:02 GMT -5
Kill switch...?
Do motorcycles have them?
I have never used one on any bike I've ever owned.
Turning the key to the 'off' position stops the engine.
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ap951
2nd Gear
Posts: 280
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Post by ap951 on Jul 8, 2012 19:11:25 GMT -5
years ago I used to ride with a fellow that had a Harley. When we would be traveling down a long hill (at speed) he would use the kill switch located on the handle bar to stop the ignition. He would then open up the throttle (this would fill the cylinders/exhaust with un-exploded fuel) and then turn the kill switch back one. This would cause the un-spent fuel to explode and would make a very loud bang. At night you could see flame shoot out the exhaust. I do think this was abuse & rather hard on all components........
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