Rotary Ramblings

[multistrada1]

I figured I would chime in and relay some information of what I have done to get my RE5 in good shape.

I just finished a 350 mile ride, and I am really happy with the way the bike works. It's finally in a condition where I don't have to make excuses or concessions to anyone who throws a leg over it. It runs well, cold and warm, and has very linear power delivery. It handles better than most all 70's bikes I have had, and stops very well.

I first bought this bike about 30 years ago, with almost no miles on it. A mechanic by trade, I went through it and had some great rides with it, but was always chasing problems and trying to "improve it", playing with carburetor jetting and tuning adjustments. I added Lester wheels, flipped the calipers around and set the bike up fairly well.

I sold the bike about 20 years ago, only to track it down a while back. Jess Stockwell owned it and had replaced the Rotor proper unit, when it failed because of a bad oil/ fuel mix check valve. The bike was pretty much the way I had set it up, besides a new motor and white paint.

With help from Tim Johnston and Jess, I think I now have something very special. My biggest issue was thinking I could make it better. Following Tim's advice I went back to the stock jetting and lubricants. A few tweaks to the accelerator pump spring and Jess's recommendation on how to tune in the port timing, no more flat spots. I setup the oil metering pump and verified proper delivery. I retarded the ignition timing from 10 degrees to 4 degrees and changed to 87 octane fuel. The result was better power and mileage, no plug fouling and a smooth idle.

I put on new Metzler tires, new chain, tapered head bearings, Racetech fork mods, needle bearings in the swing arm, period type ICON shocks. Changed all the cables, rebuilt the gauges. Pretty much made it look like new.

I would like to thank everyone who contributes to the board, besides those I have mentioned, especially Wayne. It's been a wealth of knowledge and information. 

[wayne]

Thank you MULTISTRADA. Liking your post had nothing to do with me getting a mention (and thank you for that). It was just nice to read a positive post about the bike and that your hard work and persistence has paid off. We've all followed your story on the Board. We're so lucky to have the likes of people like Tim, Brian, Roger, Jess, Stuart and many others and yours is a great success story.

Congratulations!

[timpa136]

I very much enjoy hearing of fun road trips so thank you for the impressive post.

Thanks for the post.

[Framitron]

Multistrada:
Congrats on getting the bike operating to a high level!

Out of the 4 suspension upgrades (tapered and needle bearings, Racetech and ICON suspension) which one made the biggest single improvement?

Thanks!

Al

[wayne]

Framitron, here's one more and I do recommend it:

Bronze swingarm bushes. GT750 slot straight in. If I was answering the question, I'd give these the #1 spot. Ikon make it far more comfortable, Tapered needle rollers, to me, no difference and I secretly believe they may handle better with a well adjusted stock steering bearing.

[Framitron]

Hi Wayne,
This is great information. Especially as it is a fairly low cost upgrade. Regarding the swingarm upgrade is there much difference between bronze bushes and needle roller bearings?
Thanks!

[wayne]

I don't really know Al. I had the GS750B at the same time as my Rotaries and it had needle rollers stock. But too many other differences in frame design etc to tell. I certainly couldn't pick it from the rear end alone.

From memory, it's not as straight forward going to needle rollers on the RE but the GT bronze is a "plug and play". Probably the main reason to go bronze.

I'd say that with the overall design, the only thing your getting with the needle roller is smoothness in swing but as far as rigidity goes, the bronze wouldn't lose out. For something like the RE, I'd say no benefit in rollers vs bronze bushes in the swingarm.

[multistrada1]

In regards to my suspension and chassis upgrades. The tapered steering head bearings and needle bearing swingarm conversions were mostly for ease of service. The tapered head bearings typically take a set and don't need to be serviced once re-torqued, same with the swing arm. The new type of synthetic grease does not dry up like the old petrol based grease. The needle bearing conversion did require some machine work and some changes to get the grease fitting to actually push grease into the bearing. At the end of the day if the steering head has no play and moves freely unloaded, you are golden. Same with the rear swingarm.

When it comes to the front and rear suspension, the changes I made really made the bike ride and handle better. This is very subjective though, as it depends on the weight of the rider and the types of roads you drive.
I had first put 1/4 inch spacers in the front forks, to increase the preload, which really helped up front. You can also get longer springs (Tim mentioned this) which will provide more travel . I ended up adding the Racetech
emulators, which helped the front end when you get into a situation where the front hits a big bump. Just a note, you should make sure your forks are not worn out first, lower legs, bushings, piston parts and seals. Its typically best to send them out, unless you have the inclination.

The Icon rear shocks are great. They look like stock and you can have them setup for your weight. They allow a higher ride height in the rear, which can help with handling on rough roads and reduce some of the shudder effect
from the engine around 4500 rpm (keeping the chain tight helps also). The Icon shocks allow for rebound and preload adjustment, so you can dial them in as you get the feel of it. Also, you can make adjustments for a passenger and luggage. The stock shocks felt like pogo sticks, but maybe they were just old.

Hope this helps, your experience may differ.

I plan to drive my RE5 up to the popular Quail Motorcycle Gathering in Carmel Ca this year, I'm going to do the sponsored 100 mile vintage ride as part of the event and then show the bike in the show, which includes over 300 bikes.

It will be a about a 800 mile trip, which should hopefully allow me to finally sort the bike out.

[Framitron]

Hi Wayne:
Thanks for your input about the bushings/needle bearings. I'll think it over and figure out what is best with what I can find for sale.

Multistrada:
Thanks for your input. I was debating the RaceTech upgrade but not sure of the forks' internal state right now. Likely I will first take Waynes advice and tend to the swingarm first. The Quail gathering looks like so much fun. Too bad its at the opposite side of the country from my New England location.

Did you ever find the fork brace that you were looking for?

[multistrada1]

My RE5 was approved for the Quail show. Looking forward to the ride up there and showing the bike.

[multistrada1]

Hey Framitron,
I never did find a fork brace, looked at the link you sent.
I searched around and found some for the GT750 that might work, but they don't look like a period
upgrade and would detract from the stock look of the bike.

You can still get new fork tubes, bushes and such for the front forks. I sent mine out to be redone.

Good luck.

[wayne]

Jan 26, 2023 22:16:17 GMT -5 multistrada1 said:

My RE5 was approved for the Quail show. Looking forward to the ride up there and showing the bike.

Very good! Please post pics after the show.

[timpa136]

Jan 26, 2023 22:16:17 GMT -5 multistrada1 said:

My RE5 was approved for the Quail show. Looking forward to the ride up there and showing the bike.

Please post and/or link to any U-tubes. A very elite group of enthusiasts.

[timpa136]

Jan 26, 2023 22:16:17 GMT -5 multistrada1 said:

My RE5 was approved for the Quail show. Looking forward to the ride up there and showing the bike.

Look forward to hearing all about it.

Listening to a on line review right now and estimated 1,000 bikes including those parked outside!

Tim

[timpa136]

I hope you were able to take some of your own pictures. I viewed and saved one U-tune that gave your

bike and display some extra time and a day later it said u tube unavailable.