Post by wayne on Jul 29, 2019 18:56:14 GMT -5
How to clean the rust out of your fuel tank using electrolysis. This original post by Rotorguy, the link to that entry at the end of this post.
I used Arm & Hammer washing soda as the electrolyte in hot water to dissolve it.
I suppose I used about 1/2 a up of it and filled the tank the rest of the way with hot water from the tap.
1-Clean the tank of as much loose rust as you can after removing the sensor and petcock.
1a- plug up the holes - I used some scraps of steel and old rubber gaskets
2-I used a pressure washer to break up what I couldn't loosen using large ball bearings and shaking the tank.
2a- Shaking the tank is not fun and I wasn't about to do it for long!
3-I used an old computer 12V power supply for power.
3a- Something like a train transformer or other higher amperage supply will work.
3b- The supply I used was about 300 watts and about 15 amp at 12V.
4- Negative to the tank
5- Positive to the sacrificial electrode
5a- My electrode was a old piece of steel purchased at any hardware store
5b- I insulated it with some old clear hose at a few points as you don't want it touching the tank
5ba- If it does touch the tank, it won't do anything and will short out the power supply
As soon as the positive is connected the bubbling starts.
I think I had it on for about 8 hours while I replenished the water.
My tank had a few leaks around my homemade plugs - so slow drips into a plastic pan where the tank sat during this process.
I did this twice over 2 days and was very satisfied with the results. Almost no rust that I could see - even using a boroscope.
I pressure washed it out again and rinsed it a few more times with boiling water.
After this I used an air hose and gasoline blower to dry it out as much as possible.
I removed the homemade plugs for this stage.
I then added a quart or some of kero after reinstalling the homemade plugs and sloshed it around.
The tank will flash rust quickly so WD40 or Kero or about any oily substance will prevent it.
Read more: re5rotary.proboards.com/posts/recent#ixzz5v77pUVQv
I used Arm & Hammer washing soda as the electrolyte in hot water to dissolve it.
I suppose I used about 1/2 a up of it and filled the tank the rest of the way with hot water from the tap.
1-Clean the tank of as much loose rust as you can after removing the sensor and petcock.
1a- plug up the holes - I used some scraps of steel and old rubber gaskets
2-I used a pressure washer to break up what I couldn't loosen using large ball bearings and shaking the tank.
2a- Shaking the tank is not fun and I wasn't about to do it for long!
3-I used an old computer 12V power supply for power.
3a- Something like a train transformer or other higher amperage supply will work.
3b- The supply I used was about 300 watts and about 15 amp at 12V.
4- Negative to the tank
5- Positive to the sacrificial electrode
5a- My electrode was a old piece of steel purchased at any hardware store
5b- I insulated it with some old clear hose at a few points as you don't want it touching the tank
5ba- If it does touch the tank, it won't do anything and will short out the power supply
As soon as the positive is connected the bubbling starts.
I think I had it on for about 8 hours while I replenished the water.
My tank had a few leaks around my homemade plugs - so slow drips into a plastic pan where the tank sat during this process.
I did this twice over 2 days and was very satisfied with the results. Almost no rust that I could see - even using a boroscope.
I pressure washed it out again and rinsed it a few more times with boiling water.
After this I used an air hose and gasoline blower to dry it out as much as possible.
I removed the homemade plugs for this stage.
I then added a quart or some of kero after reinstalling the homemade plugs and sloshed it around.
The tank will flash rust quickly so WD40 or Kero or about any oily substance will prevent it.
Read more: re5rotary.proboards.com/posts/recent#ixzz5v77pUVQv
