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Post by buildbreakrepeat on Mar 13, 2019 12:42:12 GMT -5
Hey guys, new here, but I figured there is plenty of knowledge out here on these Hercules W2000 motors. We picked ours up on craigslist and we did a complete rebuild, sourcing some side seals from a Sach 303 motor, we reused the apex seals and corner seals because they checked out well. The problem is that we are only making 30 lbs of compression after bolting the housings together. We cracked them back open to take a look and everything seemed to be springing well and the housings looked clean like when we originally installed it the first time. What drew our attention though was that the housings seemed to leak oil out of them in some spots. I think that we are having issues with the seal on our side housings to the main rotor housing. We checked them with a straight edge and feeler gauge and they are not warped, is there any good way to sand them down or could we use some sort of sealant between the housings to help it not leak compression. We are on youtube so if you guys would like more information feel free to ask or look at our videos. Attachments:
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FC Zach
3rd Gear
Eagleville, TN
Posts: 335
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Post by FC Zach on Mar 14, 2019 1:12:02 GMT -5
we reused the apex seals and corner seals because they checked out well. The problem is that we are only making 30 lbs of compression after bolting the housings together. Did you clearance the side seals? If not you'll loose pressure between side and corner seals. It's hard to tell from the video since it never focuses on the seals long enough to see for sure but it looks as though your apex seals are rough, they need to be perfect in order to get a good seal against the rotor housing. Questionable seals can somewhat be seen ~7:46 to :49 mark. We cracked them back open to take a look and everything seemed to be springing well and the housings looked clean like when we originally installed it the first time. What drew our attention though was that the housings seemed to leak oil out of them in some spots. I think that we are having issues with the seal on our side housings to the main rotor housing. We checked them with a straight edge and feeler gauge and they are not warped, is there any good way to sand them down or could we use some sort of sealant between the housings to help it not leak compression. Oddly enough, I do not think a seal or sealant was used between rotor and side housings. There appears to be some corrosion on one of your plates though. . is that just discoloration or is it pitted? You might be able to smooth that out with a block and very fine wet/dry sandpaper. Looking at a KM24 manual (the KC27 is probably similar but I'm not positive), it reads: "Tighten the nuts to 5.8 - 8.0 ft. Ibs. torque, using a torque wrench". What did you tighten yours to once you sandwiched everything together?
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Post by buildbreakrepeat on Mar 14, 2019 1:28:10 GMT -5
We tightened ours to 6 ft. lbs then tightened them some more to around 10 when we had questionable compression and it didn't seem to affect it. As far as the side seals we did not clearance them but they fit snugly and moved very freely and didn't need to be shaved at all.
This is a new video showing the complete rebuild and the apex seals seemed to seal correctly. The corrosion between the rotor and side housings is raised and you can feel it if you run your finger across it. On the side casing inside of the combustion chamber there is very slight pitting in one area.
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FC Zach
3rd Gear
Eagleville, TN
Posts: 335
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Post by FC Zach on Mar 14, 2019 1:28:27 GMT -5
Also, how are you spinning the engine, are you using the kick starter or electric start?
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FC Zach
3rd Gear
Eagleville, TN
Posts: 335
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Post by FC Zach on Mar 14, 2019 1:48:56 GMT -5
Alright, I just saw the answer to the last question at the end of your last video. . You'll want to use the electric start to get the most accurate reading. Also, the valve above the spark plug, those typically fail so you'll want to put a vacuum cap on that.
EDIT: Be sure to cap the other end (by the intake elbow) too.
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Post by buildbreakrepeat on Apr 15, 2019 16:38:16 GMT -5
We've got the engine running like a champ now! It starts on the first kick. We used a block of glass with sandpaper glued to it to get a level sanding surface. After some of the raised areas on the mating surfaces were smoothed out, most of our problems with compression went away. After that we replaced the apex seal springs with new ones from a Mazda 12A kit. We're super excited that this rare engine is back up and running after sitting outside and unused for so long. Here's a video of it in action, thank you for the information:
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robe
1st Gear
Hi there!
Posts: 13
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Post by robe on May 21, 2019 6:55:42 GMT -5
Saw your video's on youtube. Nice work all!
Greeting's from the Netherlands.
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Post by h2e Al In Aus on May 24, 2019 20:16:34 GMT -5
well done Guys great video on how you did it , thanks Al in Aus
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