Lifting bike onto centerstand?

[Framitron]

One of the things that puzzles me about the re5 is the apparent uselessness of the centerstand. Perhaps I am exceptionally weak but I have never been able to lift the bike onto the centerstand without another person helping. I'd really like to be able to use it every now and then for chain adjustments etc. I was thinking of cutting it down by an inch or so to see if that would help.

What does everyone else do to get their bike up on the centerstand if they are by their selves or without jacks/hoists?

Thanks!

[fonnyfth]

I am not exceptional weak neighter but lifting my RE5 on the centerstand takes a lot of (too much)strenght.I have a piece of wood (shelf?)only 30cm/10cm and some 2cm high... and push my bike on it with the rear wheel, the extra 2cm (inch?)height makes lifting it on the centerstand much more easy.

[Jean-Denis]

Hi

I agree, I have never seen a bike so hard to put on the centerstand. I do it alone with a good synchronisation (one hand on the handlebar, one on the rear handle and a BIG push with the foot on the stand pedal while pulling back the handlebar).
If somebody now a way to make it easier, I'll take it also.

Jean-Denis

[Jess]

Easiest solution is to replace the factory (crap) shocks, with a longer new shock that actually works.

If you are short in stature and can't handle a longer shock, you can cut the center stand. However, this causes other problems like the stand not lining up and or the kick tab being relocated...

Any bike being ridden needs new rear shocks. The factory ones were poo the day they left the factory. They are old, smelly, poo 40 years later. Even the cheap Chinese shocks available on ebay for 50.00 a set are better than stock.

My riders have longer shocks. I have amazed folks putting my bikes on the center stand as I can do it one handed.

Just my 2 cents... Your mileage may vary.

Best

[wayne]

Aug 31, 2017 16:14:19 GMT -5 fonnyfth said:

I am not exceptional weak neighter but lifting my RE5 on the centerstand takes a lot of (too much)strenght.I have a piece of wood (shelf?)only 30cm/10cm and some 2cm high... and push my bike on it with the rear wheel, the extra 2cm (inch?)height makes lifting it on the centerstand much more easy.

Yep, that's what works for me............and my longer shocks help that little bit as well.

[timpa136]

Maybe not directly related, but stock 1978 GS-1000C rear shocks have worked exceptionally well for me. In addition I have a" Tric-Kit"

brand  front fork dampening kit( advertised to fit the earlier 74 GT-750 )with slightly longer dampening rods that greatly adds comfort to

long miles in the saddle further helping the centerstand issue. Last I checked the Suzuki shocks were still dry around the seals.

I've seen one pair of RE5 shocks that were subject to fine gritty dust enviroment that finally tore up the seals, those were replaced by

rotorious in a past post.

I do need a thin  shim on the centerstand now though to clear the rear wheel to oil the chain  after the fork and rear shocks and  my oversize rear tire.

Tim

[Framitron]

I have done the wood board on the floor trick a few times. I can keep doing that in the interim. The stock RE5 shocks seem pretty cheesy. Upgrading the shocks sounds like a good idea. I have a 33" inseam so I can go a little longer although the bike is so top heavy that I wouldn't want to raise it up too much.
Timpas136's suggestion of 1978 GS1000C shocks sounds like a good option. What other shocks have people tried?

[wayne]

Have a look at this post Framitron, it includes pictures and details of a remodelled RE5 centrestand.

re5rotary.proboards.com/thread/733/solving-centre-stand

[Jess]

Aug 31, 2017 20:14:21 GMT -5 Framitron said:

I have done the wood board on the floor trick a few times. I can keep doing that in the interim. The stock RE5 shocks seem pretty cheesy. Upgrading the shocks sounds like a good idea. I have a 33" inseam so I can go a little longer although the bike is so top heavy that I wouldn't want to raise it up too much.
Timpas136's suggestion of 1978 GS1000C shocks sounds like a good option. What other shocks have people tried?

There are a plethora of eye to clevis shocks available. Any quality unit will do. I use a 13" or 13.25 is better for solving the stand problem.

One of my riders has a set of works performance and they are excellent. Another has a set of Ohlins, and they are superb, but pricey.

I have used some of the cheepo chinese ebay shocks, and they are FAR better than the stockers.

Your choices are limited only to your budget.

Best,

[wayne]

I use Australian made IKONS. They are about 1/2" longer so help a bit with the centre stand (and add a bit of ground clearance to a bike that doesn't really need anymore).

They make the rear end far more comfortable but I think the handling is a little worse. Overall though, I prefer the IKONS.

[Jess]

Interesting that you feel the bike handles worse with the rear lifted...

It has been my experience that my bikes handle better with a longer shock.

I suppose it could be that you skinny little girl self just doesn't have enough ballast to settle the suspension....😜

It could also be that my robust American musculature ( translation " fat bastard") just needs a bit more cushion.

Cheers buddy...

[wayne]

I don't believe it's the lift that's responsible for the worse handling. The Ikons I use have a very supple spring rate. I believe that the much more supple suspension is too much for the spaghetti swingarm and frame. The swingarm in particular is just not strong enough to deal with the modern shocks ability to actually ride up and down over all the bumps. It doesn't take too much to get it flexing like two fingers walking and that transfers to the frame as well.

As a matter of fact, I believe the tapered steering head bearings also may contribute to some head shake and flex (remember I ride with full fairing). I just think the original design works best as a package. My dead original A model handles the best.

I've discussed this with my suspension guru mate who's followed me while I've been riding the RE5 and he agrees that this is a reasonable hypothesis...........or its my skinny little girl arse.........

Note that overall, the tapered steering bearings are probably better, far more tolerant of maladjustment and more robust.

I think I agree with you re the longer shock being better. It will do things like change the effective rake at the front and quicken up the steering. Not a bad thing on such a long wheelbase bike. Great for monos as well..............Just joking, I'd pay to see someone mono an RE5.

[grosours]

I did this DIY with some boards and screws I still had in my garage which works very fine (of course only at home), but I will perhaps consider changing my 40 years old shocks!

[charles]

In my early years with the RE-5 A, I would try to "Clean and Jerk" the bike onto the Center Stand. I then began to use more continuous lifting technique, increasing power until the bike went over the balance point. You have to have perfect alignment of your back, hips, etc., but I got fairly consistent with it. You can definitely hurt yourself trying to muscle the bike around but there is good reason for having the Center Stand for our old friend.

[wayne]

No idea who this guy is but he seems to have the whole centre stand issue sorted (or he weighs 300 pounds......)