Post by wayne on Aug 16, 2017 21:55:10 GMT -5
Ignition Timing: The italicised introduction is general knowledge and “group” opinion. Following that is an excerpt from the actual Suzuki RE5 Service Bulletin #RE-9, the latest factory information on this subject.
Introduction: The original factory setting for the timing was 10º BTDC. This was altered by Bulletin 9 to 5º.
In practice, the bike is fairly insensitive to ignition timing and will run reasonably well anywhere in this range (and even slightly outside of it). The 5º setting may help soften the “harsh vibration” that occurs roughly between 3,500 and 4,000 rpm (don’t confuse this with a hesitation, timing will not help this problem). This setting may also produce a lower, more reliable idle but it many pull some power off the top end.
Current thinking among enthusiasts is 8.5º BTDC bearing in mind that absolute accuracy is not essential.
Once the timing is set, tightening the four bolts on the breaker housing will invariably change it. You will need to “feel” your way around this and learn to anticipate what tightening the bolts will do. Remember the early point about absolute accuracy and don’t tear your hair out.
A handy thing to realise is that the spark plug makes quite an audible “pop” when it fires if you’ve followed the procedure below and left it connected to the plug cap and earthed against the engine. There is no need to look for the spark and this will help fine tuning when tightening the breaker housing.
The points on the RE5 carry very little current. Pitting and burning is almost nonexistent and there is little need to get carried away with points files or even the need to change the points.
Don’t forget that the rotor itself turns “backwards” in relation to the bike. That is, CW when facing the left side of the bike. This is very important for making sense of the timing marks.
Final note, the procedure and figures below are for static timing, not via a timing light.
Extract from Bulletin 9:
1. Remove the left side alternator cover “SUZUKI” emblem and the rubber plug under it.
2. Insert a 17 mm T-handle through the hole and on to the end of the alternator rotor fitting bolt.
3. Remove the breaker housing cap on the right side of the engine.
4. Remove the nylon point covers.
5. Clean the contact point faces if necessary. Inspect for oil, burning and pitting.
a. File the points faces with #120 grit flex stone, .024” thick.
b. Clean the point faces off with electrical contact cleaner.
c. Blow the point faces off with compressed air.
d. Draw a strip of thin slick card board (business card) through the point faces to burnish the point faces.
e. Lube the point cams with a small quantity of high quality point cam grease.
6. Set the point gap to .45 mm +/- .05 mm (.017” +/- .002”)
7. Remove the timing mark inspection cover held in place with the two (2) 6 mm bolts on the left counter weight cover.
8. Remove the spark plug from the rotor housing.
9. Insert the spark plug into the plug cap and lay the spark plug by the timing mark inspection hole.
10. Turn the ignition key to the “On” position.
11. Turn the 17 mm T-handle clockwise and note at how many degrees BTDC the spark plug fires. Set to 5º BTDC.
12. Adjust the timing by gently loosening the four (4) allen head bolts holding the breaker point housing and rotating the housing CCW to advance the timing or CW to retard the timing.
13. After setting the timing, tighten the four (4) breaker point housing allen bolts gently and evenly in a criss-cros pattern. This procedure is necessary to prevent breaking the breaker point housing mounting tabs.
14. Recheck the ignition timing.
15. Reinstall the nylon points covers and the breaker points housing cover.
16. Gap the spark plug to .55 mm (.022”) and reinstall.
Introduction: The original factory setting for the timing was 10º BTDC. This was altered by Bulletin 9 to 5º.
In practice, the bike is fairly insensitive to ignition timing and will run reasonably well anywhere in this range (and even slightly outside of it). The 5º setting may help soften the “harsh vibration” that occurs roughly between 3,500 and 4,000 rpm (don’t confuse this with a hesitation, timing will not help this problem). This setting may also produce a lower, more reliable idle but it many pull some power off the top end.
Current thinking among enthusiasts is 8.5º BTDC bearing in mind that absolute accuracy is not essential.
Once the timing is set, tightening the four bolts on the breaker housing will invariably change it. You will need to “feel” your way around this and learn to anticipate what tightening the bolts will do. Remember the early point about absolute accuracy and don’t tear your hair out.
A handy thing to realise is that the spark plug makes quite an audible “pop” when it fires if you’ve followed the procedure below and left it connected to the plug cap and earthed against the engine. There is no need to look for the spark and this will help fine tuning when tightening the breaker housing.
The points on the RE5 carry very little current. Pitting and burning is almost nonexistent and there is little need to get carried away with points files or even the need to change the points.
Don’t forget that the rotor itself turns “backwards” in relation to the bike. That is, CW when facing the left side of the bike. This is very important for making sense of the timing marks.
Final note, the procedure and figures below are for static timing, not via a timing light.
Extract from Bulletin 9:
1. Remove the left side alternator cover “SUZUKI” emblem and the rubber plug under it.
2. Insert a 17 mm T-handle through the hole and on to the end of the alternator rotor fitting bolt.
3. Remove the breaker housing cap on the right side of the engine.
4. Remove the nylon point covers.
5. Clean the contact point faces if necessary. Inspect for oil, burning and pitting.
a. File the points faces with #120 grit flex stone, .024” thick.
b. Clean the point faces off with electrical contact cleaner.
c. Blow the point faces off with compressed air.
d. Draw a strip of thin slick card board (business card) through the point faces to burnish the point faces.
e. Lube the point cams with a small quantity of high quality point cam grease.
6. Set the point gap to .45 mm +/- .05 mm (.017” +/- .002”)
7. Remove the timing mark inspection cover held in place with the two (2) 6 mm bolts on the left counter weight cover.
8. Remove the spark plug from the rotor housing.
9. Insert the spark plug into the plug cap and lay the spark plug by the timing mark inspection hole.
10. Turn the ignition key to the “On” position.
11. Turn the 17 mm T-handle clockwise and note at how many degrees BTDC the spark plug fires. Set to 5º BTDC.
12. Adjust the timing by gently loosening the four (4) allen head bolts holding the breaker point housing and rotating the housing CCW to advance the timing or CW to retard the timing.
13. After setting the timing, tighten the four (4) breaker point housing allen bolts gently and evenly in a criss-cros pattern. This procedure is necessary to prevent breaking the breaker point housing mounting tabs.
14. Recheck the ignition timing.
15. Reinstall the nylon points covers and the breaker points housing cover.
16. Gap the spark plug to .55 mm (.022”) and reinstall.