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Post by don07tncav on Oct 8, 2016 18:24:19 GMT -5
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Post by h2e Al In Aus on Oct 9, 2016 3:40:23 GMT -5
I think what Jess said is right , its really hard to know how many are still running ?, let alone being ridden ,I know of 5 or 6 in Aus , mostly thanks to Jess at R/R , the bikes I got needed work , but were in very good condition , all the normal things like brakes , tyres, etc , nothing to do with engine unit ,other than carby , ignition ,hoses, if the engine is a problem ?, then thats another matter ,So I ask the Question HOW MANY ARE BEING RIDDEN AROUND THE WORLD ?.
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Post by HGH 770N on Oct 9, 2016 4:33:39 GMT -5
I note how tight the primary chain in ?? What part is seized to get the chain that tight ? The 3 screws on alternator will need a large headed impact screwdriver and a lump hammer as they are loctited in . The head of the screws easily gets chewed up without the correct bit. "HOW MANT ARE BEING RIDDEN AROUND THE WORLD? I would thing there are 30+ in the UK now with the imports from the US coming in over the last few years.
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Post by don07tncav on Oct 9, 2016 7:04:09 GMT -5
HGH, I wanted to look at the clutch because when it was in gear and the clutch engaged the back wheel didn't move but it would shift into neutral. I assume that even if the engine is seized, if the transmission is fine, the rear wheel would move with the clutch engaged.
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Post by Jess on Oct 9, 2016 17:03:39 GMT -5
An impact driver is essential for working on any antique motorcycle.
After many years of hit and miss with a quality impact driver a dear friend of mine gave me an impact driver they use in aircraft maintenance. One of my most useful tools.
It's a changeable bit tool that slides into a pneumatic air hammer (pistol type).
It has met a screw it could not remove.
Best
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Post by re5rotary on Oct 10, 2016 0:24:03 GMT -5
Hi if the engine was seized then no the rear wheel wouldn't turn if the gearbox was in gear and the clutch engaged surely? If the clutch was disengaged then yes. But since you have the ends of the eccentric shaft exposed why not just put a spanner on the nut and try and turn the engine over with the transmission in neutral?
As for the plugs I have often cleaned them using a very fine media in a bead blaster and had no problems using them for many miles afterwards. And yes I know blasting them isn't recommended by plug manufacturers but Ive done it for years on car and bike plugs with seemingly no ill effect. These days with modern petrols it actually seems to be the only way to clean them satisfactorily
regards Terry
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Post by don07tncav on Oct 11, 2016 19:33:33 GMT -5
There's dashes on the tachometer and speedometer. No dots. Put the bike in neutral and still can't turn the engine which is a bad sign, planning to open up the primary next week.
Pulled the clutch apart last night and tried to get the bent rod out that's in the photos. It looks like it should push out the clutch basket side. Because of the bend, it's not wanting to push through, do you think it's a good idea to cut it off at the bend then push it through or does it screw out the clutch basket side?
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Post by HGH 770N on Oct 13, 2016 11:21:48 GMT -5
Don Push rod pushes out through clutch , ( All shown in workshop manual ) . looks like you will have to cut it off and replace new. If you are stuck for replacement I have NOS one but would think they available in your home state . Rog
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Post by don07tncav on Oct 13, 2016 20:25:45 GMT -5
Thanks HGH, got it out yesterday evening. Knew it came out that side but wasn't sure if it screwed out because of the end or pushed out. The oil seal looks shot because of the bend distorting it. Still can't get the engine to move so my next step is to go ahead and see what the main looks like. I'm waiting on a large socket to pull the flywheel off the gear shift side, should be here either tomorrow or Monday.
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Post by don07tncav on Oct 16, 2016 18:21:44 GMT -5
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Post by HGH 770N on Oct 17, 2016 10:09:20 GMT -5
All out and in your "Bucket list" , I hope not. ( I hope its all OK ) Puller next to remove counter weights , Take care not to harm threads on the end of crank. A Puller with threaded bolts that screw into counter weights are best to keep puller square while tightening . Take care when removing 1st side plate not to loose any corner seals that maybe be stuck the side and drop off while you are pulling side plate off crank . BEST Roger
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Post by don07tncav on Oct 17, 2016 19:04:43 GMT -5
Thanks for the advice Roger. There are times I dislike being across the pond with all the non-metric at the auto parts stores. Question, what size socket fits this? The 38mm is too small.
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Post by goandy on Oct 17, 2016 20:11:32 GMT -5
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Post by don07tncav on Oct 20, 2016 16:38:37 GMT -5
Andy, that's a great thread you've done. Thanks for linking me over to it.
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Post by goandy on Oct 20, 2016 20:30:08 GMT -5
No probs
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