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Post by timpa136 on Mar 1, 2016 18:37:56 GMT -5
I have ultrasonic cleaned the carburetor, blown out and checked all passages except one, checked all jet sizes and ensured they are installed in the correct location. I would still like to know what the passage is that is located at 10 o'clock on the edge of the primary bore as you look at the engine side of the carburetor. The one below it is a vacuume port and has a jet in it. The passage in question is the one at 10 o'clock on the edge of the primary bore on the mounting face of the engine side of the carburetor, this passage on my carburetor is blocked. It will hold fluid and cannot be blown through. what is it? what does it do? Why is it there? Come on someone with previous experience and knowledge must know. Regards Allen Allen, I've felt badly that I couldn't give you a definitive answer sooner, here is the choke pull off diaphragm, the secondary diaphragm port with replaceable jet.
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Post by jm0406 on Mar 1, 2016 18:52:59 GMT -5
Tim, That was a good running carb when I gave it to you, now what will I do?
Jeff
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Post by wayne on Mar 1, 2016 23:16:25 GMT -5
Nice section.......great photo for reference. Thanks. (It's an RE5 Carb Jeff, probably runs better like that..............)
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Post by grosours on Mar 5, 2016 8:16:57 GMT -5
Hi,
my answer comes very late...but better late than never?
I had a big hesitation problem, which made me buy a carburetor for reference. Carburetor that I have completely dismantled, and always have at hand. This allows me to better understand the role and function of each item as with with the service manual alone.
Multiple ports have been primed at molding time, but several have not been completed later by drilling. That one at 10 o'clock is not completed on my carburetor. It is clogged and unused, 100% sure!
To solve my hesitation problem, jets and carburetor cleaning was necessary but not sufficient. I had to change the ignition too (perfect ignition seems essential). According to information gleaned on the forum, it seems also important to have the right air filter, which is often not the case (mine was OK). I also had to change the vacuum membrane that allows the opening of the main body. Mine seemed OK during static test, but was shaking in operation at the beginning of the opening of the main body (this can be seen from the outside when looking from below). I had also to remount the venturi correctly, as it had been mounted upside down (yes, that's possible!).
Only when all these problems were solved could I eliminate the hesitation problem by synchronizing the secondary port opening with the carburetor.
All this took me several months, the longest being to understand that an idiot had turned the venturi upside down!
Best regards.
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Post by timpa136 on Mar 5, 2016 17:09:19 GMT -5
grosours, thanks for that. You mentioned the secondary diaphragm and I have seen bent attaching brackets too. Tim
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Post by wayne on Mar 6, 2016 6:30:57 GMT -5
Excellent work grosours. Fixing the hesitation is just about grounds for a PHD in RE5 mechanics.
My only comment is that you'll find that ignition timing has almost nothing to do with it. I've ridden hesitation free bikes that have been tuned at 14 BTDC, 10, 8.5, 8, 5, 2 and at TDC. I've also ridden hesitating bikes with perfectly timed ignition.
However I agree with your findings on air filters and have to say, once again, congratulations.
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Post by grosours on Mar 6, 2016 6:50:41 GMT -5
Hi,
I forgot one thing : the coolant temperature has to be right too. My thermostat was damaged (by another idiot?) and blocked open. I could not get rid with hesitation as long as the temperature needle stayed near the left mark (55°C). I think (but cannot prove it) that about 70°C is a minimum.
Anyway a good thermostat (closed before reaching 70°C and full open at 80°C) and temperature needle close to the central mark is always a good thing.
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Post by jm0406 on Mar 6, 2016 10:17:12 GMT -5
I have also found that full, early engagement of the accelator pump helps cover up the flat spot. Also best results are when sunspot activity is low. Jeff
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Post by timpa136 on Mar 6, 2016 17:50:59 GMT -5
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Post by pmcburney on Mar 6, 2016 19:56:58 GMT -5
Nice section.......great photo for reference. Thanks. (It's an RE5 Carb Jeff, probably runs better like that..............) I concur that that is a nice section job. I have to disagree with Wayne about the result though - it's my opinion that's the absolute best thing you can do with the OEM carb before you put in in the bin.
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Post by jm0406 on Mar 6, 2016 22:35:45 GMT -5
I tell all who come see my bikes, the RE5 is the most complicated bike I own. And I sure love riding them. Jeff
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Post by wayne on Mar 6, 2016 23:07:54 GMT -5
Absolutely Jeff. There's no doubt that there are better bikes in that era, but the RE has something special. Love riding it too.
As for complexity, I have a mate who's done specatacular restorations of a KZ1300 and a Voyager. The detail and work he put into both is staggering and the complexity of the Voyager is frightening when you see what's under that fairing and behind those gauges. Currently, he's working on an RE5 and shaking in his boots at every step (there's cables and pipes everywhere !)
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Post by timpa136 on Mar 9, 2016 21:32:05 GMT -5
Hi, I forgot one thing : the coolant temperature has to be right too. My thermostat was damaged (by another idiot?) and blocked open. I could not get rid with hesitation as long as the temperature needle stayed near the left mark (55°C). I think (but cannot prove it) that about 70°C is a minimum. Anyway a good thermostat (closed before reaching 70°C and full open at 80°C) and temperature needle close to the central mark is always a good thing. Was it anything like this approach?
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Post by jm0406 on Mar 9, 2016 21:51:17 GMT -5
That looks like the thermostat from a well cared for bike. The person that owns that bike must be a pretty special kind of bike owner.
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Post by jm0406 on Mar 9, 2016 21:52:56 GMT -5
That looks like the thermostat from a well cared for bike. The person that owns that bike must be a pretty special kind of bike owner.
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